Disco 2 Won't start

Hi All
My daughters disco suddenly would not start,it was low on fuel-warning light flashing, so I have pit in 2 gallons of fuel, changed filter, changed injector loom, changed CSP sensor and checked continuity to ecu,cleaned oil from red plug,changed ECU for same part no [ did not do anything to it ] ran purge sequence [ pushed accelerator 5 times- let it run ] several times. alarm is flashing then stops when it should, car turns over fine, but no hint of starting ?? I'm now running out of options--thinking may be engine loom?? Any further suggestions before we spend £400 on new loom?? Help please ??
Steve b

Fuel pump

Forgot to add got 4 bar at fuel temp sensor

Fill the tank ( make your daughter pay) and see what happens.
Air in system?
Check fuel pressures before spending anymore money.
Not sure if you can just change ECUs? (Am sure somebody else will confirm this)
Diesel?

J

Opps the replies crossed
Bar at a temp sensor?

J

Check battery voltage when cranking, if it goes below 10.5 Volts put the battery on a good charge.

Cheers

Steve Bond said:

....changed ECU for same part no.....

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So do you have nanocom or similar then? cos if you dont swapping ECUs would not help as it needs to learn the security code so better find somebody who has dedicated tester and read fault codes and run some live tests on the injectors before you change the engine harness based on guesses.. it can be a topside switch failure too which is revealed only by a tester.

+1 for what @neilly said ... and if that happens and the battery is good it can be the starter draining too much and disturbing the crank signal...if it's manual try to bump start it

I thought I'd have to re program the ECU thanks, l 'll have to tow it to an auto electrician. The battery is good and doesn't drop below 10.5 . Unfortunately it's an auto. Think I'll get it a nanocom first. Thanks all. I'll let you know what it actually was.

Why not try the old ECU?
At what point did you change it?

J

The old ECU was very oily, so l thought it might be knackered, l took the cover off, no oil, but it didn't start so thought to change it ? At the moment neither work. Just trying a few options. Given what is good, ECU is a possibility.

Pull the starter motor (top bolt is easier with two people), open up the solenoid box and look for scorched contacts from electrical arcing. The electromagnetic interference from this arcing can disturb the signal from the cps and cause the ECU to prevent starting. You can do a temporary repair with a dremel, but repair kits are only about £10.
Your original ECU may well be fine and is at least programmed for your engine. I would clean the red plug with brake cleaner and put it back until you can get a proper diagnostic tool.

Thanks Si-- have ordered a repair kit, and will tackle it at weekend, will re try with old ECU, hopefully it will be successful?? Separate issue, is there any way to check if power is going to injectors without a nanocom??

I am not aware that this can be done safely without a diagnostic tool of some description, but I am a newbie here as well.

Bear in mind that Nanocom is not your only option. They are the most complete answer and will do some things that others won't, but they are expensive (£400) and only set for one type of LR. You pay extra for any additional vehicles (£225 to add a D3!). I use a Hawkeye Pro Total which was cheaper (£300) and seems to be unlocked for pretty much all LRs (TD5 upwards). As my son has a Defender TD5 and I have D2 TD5 the saving was over £150. It would enable you to check the firing of each injector, read the injector codes, programme the ECU to those codes and then analyse injector smoothness in Live Data. The only thing frustrating me at the moment is that it will not read an EKA code.

Noid lights I think will be what you need.
Quick goooogle and see it they are what you are wanting.

J

Steve Bond said:

Separate issue, is there any way to check if power is going to injectors without a nanocom??

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You need a tester anyway to rule out a topside switch failure though, confirm that fuse F1 engine bay is 100% OK and next time remove relay R9 and bridge the perpendicular cavities then try to start it. Anyway you can check the circuit between the ECU and injectors with multimeter set on Ohms, unplug the red plug and measure as follows:
1. across pin 22(common 1) and pins 24(inj 4), 25(inj 1), 27(inj 3)
2. across pin 23(common 2) and pins 1(inj 5) , 26(inj 2)
all resistances should be very close to 1.9 Ohm , here's the pin disposal(if not visible well see RAVE-Electrical library - Connector sviews - C0158):

Thanks very informative, I'm hoping starter will solve the problem, this looks a bit complicated!! But if I have to give it a go I'm up for it. Thanks

Steve Bond said:

Thanks very informative, I'm hoping starter will solve the problem, this looks a bit complicated!! But if I have to give it a go I'm up for it. Thanks

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Finally got it going,put battery on slow charge all weekend. Was about to change starter motor,thought I'd do one more purge and blow me it started- with original ECU.In summary im going to say it was air in system from running out and constant purging flattened battery, but I'm not 100%!! As l said before a lot of oil in injector loom and ECU plug, also CSPS was oily and damaged it did a good reading though. Next job new motor in electric seat---- easy job!!

Back to square 1, she drove car to school. Low fuel just came and wouldn't restart.Put 20l diesel in, ran purge twice, nothing. While it was running it did falter going up hills??? I now have a nonocom so will try that???

If it is faltering going up hills that might indicate fuel pump on the way out.
This might be useful.

Stop running it low. Treat quarter of a tank as empty td5 fuel pumps get hot and like being submerged. Ain't advisable in any car to run fuel that low you'll pull ****e from bottom of tank thru system.

Try nanocom or Hawkeye but fuel pump won't show up as fault code.

Is pump making any funny noises?