wont start

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Bromsgrove Defender

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This is doing my head in

1999 TD5 Defender

Ok so far

Ignition switch replaced..... Worked for a while but still got intermittant fault every now and then!

Symptoms

P1 all systems go
P2 red lights light up, but engine check and glowplug lights dont light just as if immobiliser has ... well immobilised :)
However
goto P3 starter engages engine check light/glowplug light lights up fuel pump kicks and and if you hold P3 will run and rev as normal

BUT

As soon as you let go of the key and it flips to P2 the engine dies.

Have replaced injector loom as oil was in the loom.

Now if I have this right

Ignition switch should be ok because I have bypassed the switch ie taken main feed in and through a seperate switch taken it directly to the P2 output makes no diffence.

All earth's are secure.

Immobiliser should be ok or else the engine wouldn't fire

ECU should be ok else the engine wouldn't run as normal with key held at P3

All sensors should be ok or else the engine shouldn't run as normal with key held at P3

Previously forcing the start by holding P3 for a few seconds would solve the problem.

The biggest pain in the arse has been that every time I've tried to solve this issue it's been fine.

It's only now that no matter what or even for how long I hold P3 it wont stay running.

It's got to be a loose wire some where or bad connection ...... or has it



What have I missed?? :confused:
 
i'm not the best with fenders but they must have a main relay ... wiggle the yellow relays under the driver's seat one by one , one of the three is the main ecu relay, the relay holder's contacts loose their tension over time.... remove the relay and twist the pins about a degree or two with pliers...just an ideea
 
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggggggggggghhhhh!!


Thought as I had a spare minute I'd check the voltage at P2

Ignition off input voltage 12.5volts

Turn to P2 expecting voltage drop..............................

Bloody thing lights up properly voltage 12.5 volts

Turns to P3 starts and stays running on release of key :confused:
 
try to "hook" your voltmeter somehow to the P2 output as to see it all the time and if it will cut out again at least you'll see if the voltage drops there or not....or wire in a bulb there untill u sort out this issue.... if it will cut out and the bulb will not extinguish at least you isolated a part of the system... if it will extinguish you can search before it
 
Hook up the caravan and put loads of luggage in the back. The Fender will then think you're going somewhere important and fail for you in order for you to fix the problem!

Feeling for you bro' having witnessed it being naughty! :rolleyes:
 
Well that throws that theory outta the window. :rolleyes:

No oil in the loom now and steady 12.5 volts from ignition rising and holding at 14+ ish with engine running ( so alternators ok lol )

Still cut out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:confused:

Have swapped spare relay (heated rear screen ?? ) for main relay and see what happens might just hard wire circuit tester in to the main relay just to see whats going on there too. :)
 
This could be a complete red herring, but I had a 2001 td5, that used to conk out periodically - but then wouldn't start for a while.

I eventually found that disconnecting the battery, for a minute, then reconnecting it worked.
It was the immobiliser which, contrary to popular belief can come into operation even when going.
REplaced immobiliser and never happened again.

That problem was a bit different from yours, but it does show trouble can come from unexpected angles, especially with all that electronic trickery they put in nowadays
 
I thought so;)....but let me tell you something... the man cheated you worst, i hope you didnt give him too much money, cos what ever he did there i'm sure he didn't "replace the immobiliser"

That's interesting - why? - I ask because I got a new key fob and he said the 10AS unit was replaced- but had to keep the old fob on the key ring because it still needed to communicate with the ignition barrel. I understood the immobiliser to be separate from the ecu, but the ecu communicates with it (normally, but no need to chat about that)

Is that not right?
 
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