Disco 2 Wonky legs

Hi all, onto my next fix for the disco, leaning suspension, been reading alot of suspension threads though i may have a few issues at once, pics will explain it all..

This is it after sitting overnight, not the straightest thing telling me it should be air bag leak etc. Easy peezy




But correct me if im wrong the level sensors should be dislocated/unnatached like this on both sides..

Left rear, the higher side seeming normal

Right rear, the low side

At off road height i was wiggling them round, and obviously suspension was moving as i did with SLS,
But at full height (off road) the rears appeared level but it still looked like this... Still leaning, kinda tells me front spring needs a seeing to as well


Often if i park up it doesnt drop, but occasionally i can open the boot and it lowers, im thinking deliberately as manual hasnt said anything, but sometimes it doesnt, and when it does its lower on that same side, maybe thats just pulling them both down due to bad sensor. I will probably jack up the rear via the body/chassis to tell me if when rear is exactly level the front is or isnt to say if front is off too!
And important question, can i repair those sensor mounts without buying a whole sensor x2? As theyre only rubber
Any tips n tricks always appreciated!
Hope itll help others too,
Many thanks,
Ryno

Sorry to say, those height sensors are broke Ryan.
For the sake of how cheap new ones are I would change them.
Remember to disconnect the battery when you change them.

Cheers

+1
Ride height sensors are about 25 quid each. Part number: RQH100030. They're not "handed", they're the same both sides.
As @neilly has already said, disconnect the battery before you do anything at all to the ride height sensors.

neilly said:

Sorry to say, those height sensors are broke Ryan.
For the sake of how cheap new ones are I would change them.
Remember to disconnect the battery when you change them.

Cheers

Click to expand...

brian47 said:

+1
Ride height sensors are about 25 quid each. Part number: RQH100030. They're not "handed", they're the same both sides.
As @neilly has already said, disconnect the battery before you do anything at all to the ride height sensors.

Click to expand...

Cheers guys, will need those sensors, though i have measured the ride heights ensuring that the sensors are properly seated equally, and yet both right hand side wheels are at a height of 18" between centre of wheel and arch, vs. left hand wheels both 19.5", exactly as uneven front to back, i might need more than just the sensors, unless they are also faultly so wont be able to tell until i replace them and re test, will remove those arms (forgot their name) while im there as theyre proper rusty and give em a clean up, thanks

Hi Ryan

Std height ctr of wheel hub to underedge of wheelarch in the workshop manual is:

Front 500mm +- 15mm
Rear 473mm +- 15mm.

When I have checked the setting using a nanocom, to achieve an equal height LH to RH side / reset the height on a number of vehicles. I normally find you have a slightly different reading from each of the sensors that needs to be saved. ( For info nanocom will give a reading of approx 149, this is not an actual measurement in mm, but taken from a measurement of rotation from the sensor).

It is amazing what a little rotation on the sensor will do to the actual height difference on the vehicle. So if your sensors are not held in a position well then they will give an anomoly on the height LH to RH side. As they are not handed you can always try swapping them from one side to the other to see if your lopsidedness changes.
Unless someone has actually saved the vehicle with a lopsided setting in the computer?????

Hope that makes sense.

But as has been said before : Remember to disconnect the battery.......

Cheers

You never had this much fun with your old Series did Ya????

neilly said:

Hi Ryan

Std height ctr of wheel hub to underedge of wheelarch in the workshop manual is:

Front 500mm +- 15mm
Rear 473mm +- 15mm.

When I have checked the setting using a nanocom, to achieve an equal height LH to RH side / reset the height on a number of vehicles. I normally find you have a slightly different reading from each of the sensors that needs to be saved. ( For info nanocom will give a reading of approx 149, this is not an actual measurement in mm, but taken from a measurement of rotation from the sensor).

It is amazing what a little rotation on the sensor will do to the actual height difference on the vehicle. So if your sensors are not held in a position well then they will give an anomoly on the height LH to RH side. As they are not handed you can always try swapping them from one side to the other to see if your lopsidedness changes.
Unless someone has actually saved the vehicle with a lopsided setting in the computer?????

Hope that makes sense.

But as has been said before : Remember to disconnect the battery.......

Cheers

Click to expand...

Ah i might try swapping them first then, gonna look up this nanocom business as it seems like a necessary tool! Now my sodding SRS light is back on
Believe me my series has given me a lot of sleepless nights and i dont even drive it! But its never needed a diagnostic tool
I could do with learning my electrics, for now though, there is a 100% chance that i wont have any faulty sensors on my series!

Do you think it needs a scan?!

@neilly are these new sensors gonna want calibrating? Keep seeing people talking about Slams or something and im Nanocom-less, any thoughts?
Cheers

I would try swapping them from one side to the other first. For info.
If it makes a difference or not make a note of it, then change them for new and see what you end up with.
To answer your question , as long as you disconnect the battery then it should not need calibrating.

But I personally think it would not hurt to recalibrate once with a nanocom ( other diagnostics are available). Just to set the height to what it should be.

Plus it would not hurt to run the car on diagnostics nanocom / hawkeye / lynx whatever you can find locally. Review any faults , clear history and double check what and how it is running.

People are talking about SLABS , this is the Suspension leveling and ABS computer.

You can check on LZIR map for anyone local who may have one.

Cheers

neilly said:

I would try swapping them from one side to the other first. For info.
If it makes a difference or not make a note of it, then change them for new and see what you end up with.
To answer your question , as long as you disconnect the battery then it should not need calibrating.

But I personally think it would not hurt to recalibrate once with a nanocom ( other diagnostics are available). Just to set the height to what it should be.

Plus it would not hurt to run the car on diagnostics nanocom / hawkeye / lynx whatever you can find locally. Review any faults , clear history and double check what and how it is running.

People are talking about SLABS , this is the Suspension leveling and ABS computer.

You can check on LZIR map for anyone local who may have one.

Cheers

Click to expand...

Brilliant thanks mate, im looking at investing in a nano, ive only just bought the truck but it seems like a wise investment thatll save me alot of hassle in the long run, im no diagnosis wizz so i reckon its a good way to lead me through, plus i wont keep bothering you about every light that comes up

Some people tend not to like the cost of the Nanocom, and yes, it can be a bit expensive when you consider it against some of the generic code readers you can get free with a packet of Corn Flakes on eBay which will only tell you nonsense, or when you compare it with having to shell out to the garage every time you need a code read.
But you have to remember that the Nanocom or Hawkeye or Lynx will work with the Disco 2 whereas the others usually won't. The software has been written to be fully compatible with the Land Rover systems, the diesel Disco 2 isn't fully compatible with the OBDII protocols.
Using the Nanocom is easy, it just plugs in to the diagnostics port and away you go. Provided that just like a PC, when you come to something you don't understand straightaway, you back out of it and don't start "writing" with it.

brian47 said:

Some people tend not to like the cost of the Nanocom, and yes, it can be a bit expensive when you consider it against some of the generic code readers you can get free with a packet of Corn Flakes on eBay which will only tell you nonsense, or when you compare it with having to shell out to the garage every time you need a code read.
But you have to remember that the Nanocom or Hawkeye or Lynx will work with the Disco 2 whereas the others usually won't. The software has been written to be fully compatible with the Land Rover systems, the diesel Disco 2 isn't fully compatible with the OBDII protocols.
Using the Nanocom is easy, it just plugs in to the diagnostics port and away you go. Provided that just like a PC, when you come to something you don't understand straightaway, you back out of it and don't start "writing" with it.

Click to expand...

Yeah , they can be dangerous tools in the wrong hands....LOL.

Cheers

After a while on here, and with various ongoing issues, i brought a Nanocom, so glad i did,changed my EKA code and programmed a key, plus deleting codes, defo worth it, but do shop around, as i saved a fair amount by going direct to Nanocom, good luck