Bought myself a 2001 freelander TD4 commercial as i think they look great and have wanted one since i was 12 years old. Been driving the thing about and it is horrendously slow. i have owned some pretty bad cars in my time but the only thing that comes close to being this slow was an 850cc 1974 mini and i think even that was faster. Tried towing with it and its fine aslong as you dont go out of third gear but get in 5th and even the sight of a hill is enough to make it come to a complete stop. Is it normal for the thing to be doing 3000 rpm when you get near 80mph, which i never do because that is illegal and also drops the claimed fuel economy of 37 to about 25. You would think driving around at snails pace would be very efficient but not in this car i worked out if i put 5 gallons in im lucky to get 160 miles. Other people say these cars a quick what were they driving before a milk float and they talk about effortless overtaking, i got overtaken by a coach which are meant to be restricted to 57. Even if i dont change gear until 3000 rpm it just makes a lot of noise and goes nowhere sometimes it feels like im actually going backwards. I have checked all the hoses, changed the turbo solenoid and am getting all the correct pressure measurments from the MAF and MAP sensors. What the hell is wrong with the thing, do i need a new engine or are they all like this.
Why is my Freelander td4 so damn slow!!!!!
- Thread starter dan1985
- Start date
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Yakko
New Member
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Would be worth knowing if it's slower than other TD4s, there's a thread on here if you search where a number of us compared performance in 5th from 60 to 70 (or something).
For what it's worth, I don't find mine especially slow.
For what it's worth, I don't find mine especially slow.
sijwhite
Active Member
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80mph @ 3000 rpm is about right.
Have you checked your turbo?
Have you checked your turbo?
Mines a K1.8 and when I drove a TD4 it was like driving the Starship Enterprise by comparison. Sorry not to be constructive but there are folks on here that know everything there is to know about TD4, so you will get it sorted.
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?????????????? .. 'pressure' measurement ???
same thing happens if your Not towing something ?
o.p. is not clear ..
what you describe can be said for when your Not towing ?
( 'n how heavy is what you tow )
the td4's torque peaks at 1750 rpm .. and it generated a fair amount of torque
you should be able to change gear at 2500rpm with no problem ..
if not less ..
peak horsepower is at 4000 rpm ..
if so .. your td4 is out-of-tune ..
what's its service history ..
has the MAF ever been changed ?
and when was the last time the turbo vent filter was changed ?
and the crankcase vent filter ? serviced .. or not ?
have you checked and clean the engine sensor electrical contacts ? notably the fuel rail pressure sensor
what fuel do you use ?
supermarket .. or premium diesel like shell-v or bp ultimate
have you ever run fuel system cleaner through it ?
post what you've done to it / engine bits replaced etc ..
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Yakko
New Member
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- Holmfirth, W.Yorks
Unless his clutch is slipping, 80mph in a TD4 will be at the same revs as every other TD4. The ratio between wheels and revs (in the same gear) is fixed.
Performance problems would result in getting to those revs/speed in a longer amount of time.
englishbullterrier
Active Member
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- 824
Is the turbo even spinning ?
Usually a bad MAF sensor will give poor performance, I had one die on my Audi and the bugger struggled to get up hills!!
If its terribly slow, try disconnecting the MAF and driving it again, if it improves Bobs yer wotsit, usually the TD4 isn't too bad, ours will whip past things ok and pulls from 60 up to 90 or so without too much effort
If its terribly slow, try disconnecting the MAF and driving it again, if it improves Bobs yer wotsit, usually the TD4 isn't too bad, ours will whip past things ok and pulls from 60 up to 90 or so without too much effort
Or that, or fuel starvation..
Its slow all the time. Towed 500kg on a 200kg trailer. The proplem is how long it takes to get up to speed. Say some one cuts in front of me or puts the brakes on hard, i am stuffed. Mass air flow reading was what is expected can't remember off the top of my head think its measured in g/s. MAP is getting to 1.4 bar. Can hear the turbo whistle at about 1700 rpm so its working. Good point about the gearbox and rpm speed yakko.
Its done 126k and been serviced recently had bg244 and forte inector cleaner and have added millers ecotek. EGR is unplugged, intake has been cleaned. previously serviced once a year by land rover dealer or independent. Turbo vent was changed when solenoid was changed about 2 months ago. Crank case breather replaced with bmw cyclone type. fuel rail sensor cleaned. have used bp ultimate but didn't notice a difference from asda fuel.
Its done 126k and been serviced recently had bg244 and forte inector cleaner and have added millers ecotek. EGR is unplugged, intake has been cleaned. previously serviced once a year by land rover dealer or independent. Turbo vent was changed when solenoid was changed about 2 months ago. Crank case breather replaced with bmw cyclone type. fuel rail sensor cleaned. have used bp ultimate but didn't notice a difference from asda fuel.
webley2000
Active Member
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- Lincolnshire
Does rather sound like the Turbo.
Mine is also a 2001.
The previous owner had to have the turbo changed as it had seized.
When I got it the 1st thing i did after reading all the threads on here was to change the crankcase breather filter.
It had been fitted badly and was all crunched up.
Whats the service history.
It also may have a blockage in the exhaust which will also restrict the power.
Mine is certainly not sluggish and will rev to 5000 rpm quite easily.
I just got back off holiday.Did about 800 mile in various conditions and is been a total pleasure to drive.
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wonder offhand if might be related to the go-pedal position sensor
a.f.a.i.k. it's a potentiometer .. and i guess they must wear out ..
i.e. maybe it's worn and not able to give a full signal to the ecu
rover ron mentions something about it on his site ..
he checked one and it weren't giving full voltage reading ..
however .. yet to see someone on these pages with a dodgy go-pedal position sensor
~~~~~~~~
probably turn out to be somethin' else .. ;-/
a.f.a.i.k. it's a potentiometer .. and i guess they must wear out ..
i.e. maybe it's worn and not able to give a full signal to the ecu
rover ron mentions something about it on his site ..
he checked one and it weren't giving full voltage reading ..
however .. yet to see someone on these pages with a dodgy go-pedal position sensor
~~~~~~~~
probably turn out to be somethin' else .. ;-/
Ian jones
Well-Known Member
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Take the hand brake off 
Dangermike
Active Member
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I would also try wynns diesel injected fluid! Sorted mine out when I was struggling for speed, now I have no problems getting to 70 or above ....
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'dan1985'
i can't find the thread regarding speed times for the td4 .. right now ..
however .. i think .. unladen .. cruising on the flat at 50mph in 5th gear (2k rpm aprox.)
then flooring the go-pedal .. a standard tuned one will take about 5 or 6 sec. to reach 70mph
the td4's forte is torque .. not outright acceleration ..
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
i reckon to get anywhere remotely near hot-hatch performance, you'd need a highly tuned petrol version ..
i can't find the thread regarding speed times for the td4 .. right now ..
however .. i think .. unladen .. cruising on the flat at 50mph in 5th gear (2k rpm aprox.)
then flooring the go-pedal .. a standard tuned one will take about 5 or 6 sec. to reach 70mph
the td4's forte is torque .. not outright acceleration ..
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
i reckon to get anywhere remotely near hot-hatch performance, you'd need a highly tuned petrol version ..
Skynet
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The Hippo's MPG is closer to 35mpg mate.
5 x 35 = 175miles per 5 gallons, so that's about right really depending on your route and style of driving. Most people also add a tuning module to the engine such as Rover Ron's TU1 or TU2 with a Pierburg MAF.
Singvogel
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Check that there is a decent brand of air-filter fitted - Mann or Mahle - no need to go for a fancy sports job - but cheapy ones just restrict the breathing.
Check the fuel filter - I would have had it changed twice by that mileage - often overlooked - again get a decent brand.
A partially blocked or old fuel filter on a diesel gives the 'brick-wall effect' when you ask for acceleration much over 2400rpm.
I agree with an earlier post to check the fitting of the pcv.
Driving a diesel speedily calls for a change of technique which some folks can't (or wont) adopt. Holding on to lower gears past peak torque doesn't help - it actually slows you down.
Singvogel.
Check the fuel filter - I would have had it changed twice by that mileage - often overlooked - again get a decent brand.
A partially blocked or old fuel filter on a diesel gives the 'brick-wall effect' when you ask for acceleration much over 2400rpm.
I agree with an earlier post to check the fitting of the pcv.
Driving a diesel speedily calls for a change of technique which some folks can't (or wont) adopt. Holding on to lower gears past peak torque doesn't help - it actually slows you down.
Singvogel.
Can someone tell me the part number for the fuel filter thats in the rear wheel arch. I changed the one under the bonnet (think mine has two) and is it a difficult job. seems like it might be. The MPG is more like 30 mpg and that is mainly dual carriage way with a bit of country lanes driving at 65-70mph. There is some smoke before it reaches temperature which is worse the colder it is but completely disappears when the temp gauge starts moving. got glow plugs and temp sensor on order. Smoke test at MOT was 0.3
