Where's your clutch biting point?

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mick 1986

mick 1986

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Just realised on mine today that the biting point it about an inch from fully depressed! I guess that's not right, is it?
So where is your clutches biting point?
 
mines about an inch or so from being fully released off the floor.

although my 2004 has only done 35k

sounds like your clutch needs a change.

my old freelander did the same, very close to the floor, ended up crunching gears in the end, so i changed clutch and problem sorted :p
 
Yeah that's what I was thinking. It's a td4 with just over 70k on it, so I was hoping it didn't need doing. Oh well!
 
yea sounds about right.

all depends on how nicely its been driven over the years too.

all adds up to its wear and tear. my old freebie needed its changing at 70,000

when it gets changed it takes a bit of getting used to the new biting point. lol :D
 
Get your spanners out joe. I did the clutch in mine - not too difficult really, though manhandling the gearbox can be a pain. I'd also recommend buying a fairly decent clutch repair kit as i found the gearbox tricky to push back into place and had to tighten it with the bolts and i think that was due to the clutch kit.
 
whythehellnot? said:
Get your spanners out joe. I did the clutch in mine - not too difficult really, though manhandling the gearbox can be a pain. I'd also recommend buying a fairly decent clutch repair kit as i found the gearbox tricky to push back into place and had to tighten it with the bolts and i think that was due to the clutch kit.
Click to expand...

I've never done a lutch in a car before-unless someone can point me to a picture guide on one thats been done before on the freelander?!
Putting pegs in places to line things up! thats black magic isnt it?!

Been quoted £885 for a new clutch to be installed which includes the clutch, release bearing and new slave cylinder...gulp! that about right?
 
In 9 out of 10 cases a low biting point is because of lost displacement due to air in the hydraulics. If it's a td4 try bleeding through to new fluid before doing anything more drastic.
 
Chaser said:
In 9 out of 10 cases a low biting point is because of lost displacement due to air in the hydraulics. If it's a td4 try bleeding through to new fluid before doing anything more drastic.
Click to expand...

I'll do mine this weekend and report back... got some industrial size syringes so getting the DOT4 into the master cylinder cap should be a bit easier :0)
 
£850 is a bit steep right probably - about £150 for the parts and about 6 hours work. I did mine for about £100 all in and it took two weekends though if I were doing it again i'd do it in about 6 hours or less.
Putting the gearbox back isn't too tricky - you have to be sure that you centre the clutch plate with a tool and it can mean lots of undoing stiff bolts and stuff whilst lying on your back. I managed to get it on the spline easily enough, lined up the bellhousing holes and put the bolts in the holes and turned them a couple of turns at a time. This was slow going but it did the job.
I took photos which i was planning to put into a howto at some stage.

I agree that bleeding with syringes is soooo much simpler.
 
When I got it done on my vectra, they said you can't replace one without the other being replaced. Do I thort it would be the same with this engine? Both 2.0l D, both have DMF fitted, or am I missing something?
 
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