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Freelander 1 Whats the biggest tyre I can fit on a Freelander?

Discussion in 'Land Rover Freelander' started by dieseldog69, May 4, 2019.

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  1. dieseldog69

    dieseldog69 Well-Known Member LZIR Despatch Agent

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    I'm guessing these won't fit :eek:

    download (35).jpeg

    So how biggly can one go?
     
  2. 1988smithy

    1988smithy Well-Known Member

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    You might get one in the boot :confused::D
     
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  3. GrumpyGel

    GrumpyGel Well-Known Member

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    How big do you want?

    Before you answer - it does not have low range, so you'll be climbing rocks in high range.
     
  4. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    It depends on whether you want to fit spacers and a lift, or just get the largest possible under the standard vehicle. On a standard hight FL1, you're limited to about 29" in diameter, and a maximum width of 235.

    I have 235/55/18 tyres on mine, which fit just fine. However it's definitely less quick than it was with the standard 215/65/16s. This hampers progress off road a bit, requiring more slip from the auto box to make progress. I'd avoid such a large diameter on a manual, as the clutch would take a pounding.
     
  5. dieseldog69

    dieseldog69 Well-Known Member LZIR Despatch Agent

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    I was hoping 235/70 r16 might go?

    I think they are a shade under 29" but standard size on a Disco.

    I was thinking aftermarket steels or banded out originals.

    Could run spacers but I'm not a fan.

    I opted for 235/70 r16 as it offers the most amount of off road tyre choices comparatively.
     
  6. GrumpyGel

    GrumpyGel Well-Known Member

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    Have you got a Freelander then or considering? If the answer is yes, then exist and pics and all that.

    "What Tyres Fit My ..." is the bain of motoring forums! Because its been asked so often, you can usually do a search in the Freelander section for an answer eg '235/70 r16' brings up various threads.

    I'm not sure if it affects the answer, but if you are using standard Freelander wheels, they changed in 2000 to get over the larger brakes introduced in that year. So your answer may depend on the year of your car, and if it is <2000 whether its running 2000+ wheels. Wheels from <2000 cars won't fit 2000+ cars without spacers. I'm not sure if the later wheels shift the tyres outwards (away from the struts) and enable wider tyres?
     
  7. Nodge68

    Nodge68 Well-Known Member

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    Many aftermarket steels aren't hubcentric and standard steels are only available in 15", which discounts those. Why not use the standard Freedom alloy wheels ,which are cheap and plentiful.
    They should just go on, but if not, a 5mm spacer ring would do the trick. ;)
    True. I even did a thread on the subject, but it's got lost in the mists of time.
     
  8. dieseldog69

    dieseldog69 Well-Known Member LZIR Despatch Agent

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    I've been looking over a 1999 FL1 and it ticks all the boxes.

    I want to be able to lane it gently on days when the Disco is sick or the distance is a bit far from home.

    I did search quite a bit but there seemed to be so many conflicting threads dating back to the mid 2000s and I was getting boggled as some of the sizes quoted didn't even come up as available sizes or they were but only in road biased tyres and I certainly want to be on ATs minimum or slightly more aggressive ATs or mild muds LOL
     
  9. GrumpyGel

    GrumpyGel Well-Known Member

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    Is it a diesel or petrol? Mines a '99 diesel which uses the Rover L Series engine - its a cracking lump. Derived from the Perkins Prima which was derived from a petrol Leyland/BMC (B ?) series engine - the lineage goes all the way back to MGs in the 60's and forward to the TD5 which is a common rail update with an extra cylinder moulded in. It also went forward to the Rover G Series which was a 4 cylinder version of the TD5 but was killed by BMW so they could use their stocks of M47 engines. The G Series though was sold to a company in India and its still built today in common rail and original L Series direct injection config. Its like a tortoise off the lights if you don't want to create a plume of smoke, but plenty of power once going. Should get nudging 40 to the gallon which does drop around town or off the tarmac, but not horrendously so.

    The L Series will run on for ever if the drive/fan/aux belt tensioner doesn't fail - if it does, the fan ends up wrapped round the main pulley and the cam belt gets thrown. So regular maintenance/replacement of it is important.

    If its petrol, it'll be the K Series 1.8 which is a great engine if you don't mind changing head gaskets. For a 1.8, there's plenty enough power for the road and guys on here have great fun getting them muddy. Apart from head gaskets, they appear very reliable. They are probably cheaper to run on the open road than the diesel, @htr get silly miles per gallon our of his that's almost the same as my diesel and the fuel is cheaper. They probably use more though when you're not cruising at 60.

    I'd had Disco 1's for about 10 years (diesel and V8) before getting the Freelander - and to be honest, I was a bit bored and uninspired with it when I first got it - it was only when it eventually went wrong (its been boringly reliable) and I started fiddling with it that I really got hooked on it. Had it 8 or 9 years now and its still boringly reliable and I still recon its a cracking motor :)

    Being a '99 means it will be manual. Auto or manual for off roading is a bit Marmite - people tend to prefer 1 or the other. I have taken mine to some stupid places - even in 2WD and been pulled out by 'full fat' Land Rovers. I miss going to those places and I would love to get another 1 for the stable just for fun. My preference would be for an auto, which unfortunately means it would be a TD4. Without the low range, I think you are right not going larger (diameter) tyres than standard. You can bolt on a 40mm lift and not have to do many changes (if any) - I don't even think you need to change brake lines. You can get 50mm kits but for that extra 10mm they require the chassis to by hacked about with - for most I can't see the point - but it depends how keen you are! You may also find that a lift will make the CVs wear more rapidly - once again a bit Marmite, some say it won't other have blamed the lift for needing replacements. You can also get replacement springs which will give a lift - but I believe only a mild 20mm or so - not sure the struts/shocks would cope with anything more. Definitely remove any tow bar when you go off tarmac and you might like to also consider getting a smaller back box for the exhaust.

    With a '99 you can install LR rims off any model year Freelander 1. They are also the same stud pattern and some Hondas and Jeeps, some have installed Jeep wheels - but the comment Nodge makes about being hub centric is worth considering.

    What ever you do, make sure you always run identical tyres on all 4 corners and they are pumped to the same pressure - a TPMS is a very wise investment on Freelander. Also make sure the VCU is 'within spec'. If these are looked after the Freelander's a great, reliable capable little truck. This is worth a read...

    https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tests-new-freelander-owners-should-do-on-their-car.312863/
     
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  10. Rich in Vancouver

    Rich in Vancouver Well-Known Member

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    235/70R16 General Grabber ATs on my Facelift FL1
    They fit just fine and my speedo is reading dead on.
    I did fit 5mm spacers but could have got away without them.
    The tyres were closer to the struts than I was comfortable with so
    the spacers are a piece of mind thing.
    The only issue was mounting the spare as the wider tyre hit the arm for the 3rd brake light
    I made up some nylon spacers to move the wheel out a bit. The studs still have enough length
    to mount the spare securely.
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
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