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What did you do with your Range Rover today

Discussion in 'Range Rover' started by Dopey, Oct 24, 2012.

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  1. gold rover

    gold rover Well-Known Member Full Member

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    Following on from previous post. Anyone used/using any of these ? I want something simple , plug and play, that I can do myself, without drilling holes or taking bits out.
    Thanks in advance folks :)

    https://www.bestproductsreviews.co....6modaJ-z27rkjL5EX6gr0RTi3eKflK-hoC_hQQAvD_BwE
     
  2. Datatek

    Datatek Well-Known Member

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    IMG_1911.jpg IMG_1911.jpg
    I use 20 watt panels with charge regulators. The panels cost around £30 and the charge regulators £6, but you have to supply your own wire and connect the panel to the controller and the controller to the battery. If you have a tow hitch and socket(s), the 7 pin S connector has a fused live and earth, the 13 pin connector also has the same. Dead easy to connect, I can provide pin outs if required.
    Of course you could spend £132.99 on one in your link that comes without a charge controller and so could overcharge in summer. Anything less than 20 watt is a waste of time as it will not do the job in winter..
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 26, 2022
    Jayridium, RangeRoller dt and jwrrc like this.
  3. Dopey

    Dopey Well-Known Member

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    gold rover likes this.
  4. My Old Landy

    My Old Landy Slowly rusting away...... Full Member

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    Missing square brackets.
     
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  5. Datatek

    Datatek Well-Known Member

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    y?
     
  6. Datatek

    Datatek Well-Known Member

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    With or without brackets I cannot get the link to show anything even via Google.
     
  7. My Old Landy

    My Old Landy Slowly rusting away...... Full Member

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    It works for me but is linked to Amazon US so not a lot of good for either of us!
     
  8. Dopey

    Dopey Well-Known Member

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    I had to take the brackets out for the link to show, But I have a VPN thats why the american link
     
  9. RangeRoller dt

    RangeRoller dt Well-Sprung Member

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    You won’t charge battery up on a run. They always need trickle charging even when A is O K. Have mine on charge now (off vehicle) do it every 6 months. Takes couple days trickle get it topped right up with big battery. Was down to 12.4V (12.1 Is beyond repair with this one) so left it late, batteries only year old with no drain issues etc just it’s usual thirst.
     
  10. stustrong

    stustrong Well-Known Member

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    Added a 12in sub too the stock system after so long of resisting the urge too do it,
    Also picked up tyres for it, 275 45 20s too replace the undersized 275 40 20s,
    Few adventures with the car trailer fetching another 328i and also a 106 of all things
     
  11. Datatek

    Datatek Well-Known Member

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    You will if the run is long enough. If you start with a fully charged battery, the alternator with a modern regulator giving a charge voltage starting at 14.7v will replace the energy used for a normal start in about 10 miles but not if you have to crank for ages.
     
  12. kermit_rr

    kermit_rr Green Member Full Member

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    Sounds bogus.
    20 ÷ 12 = 1.67
    That's assuming a 12v panel, which wouldn't charge a 12v battery.
    Standard panels are 21v so you'd get 0.95A not 1.67A. you'd be lucky to get half an amp in reality, even then only for a short time
     
  13. backinblack

    backinblack Well-Known Member Full Member

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    I have 2 of these on the wifes Corsa



    Connected to battery via one of these. The car is parked down the side of the house in the shade. Shows 12.4v in winter but now showing 14.4v.

     
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  14. Datatek

    Datatek Well-Known Member

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    I have 6 x 20 watt panels, they produce as you say around 21volts off load. On a sunny day connected via a charge controller to the P38 battery, I get a maximum of 0.85A for at least 6 hours. On an overcast day in winter as little as 30ma.
     
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  15. Grrrrrr

    Grrrrrr Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd Full Member

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    £180 to fill from empty to brim. At this rate it will break the £200 mark by the end of the year.
     
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  16. brianp38dse

    brianp38dse Well-Known Member

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    :eek: that`s got to hurt, i try not to do large fill ups like that its to depressing:(
    i am trying not to make too many journeys and use the most economical motor we have, and the other half is talking about going up to Edinburgh for a week:rolleyes:
     
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  17. pwood999

    pwood999 Well-Known Member Full Member

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    Might be cheaper to fly & rent a car than drive the P38 up there !!
     
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  18. brianp38dse

    brianp38dse Well-Known Member

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    I would take the bemmer at 45+ mpg, i dont fancy going by plane or train.
     
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  19. Bix

    Bix Loading... Full Member

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    Pretty sure the old bus hates me at this point. Just started a new trend. Stalls when I select a gear. Been told it could be (in no order):
    Gearbox oil dead.
    TC dying
    FIP dying
    #4 injector dying
    Vacuum hose between inlet manifold and fuel filter
    Fuel filter blocked
    [Edit: EGR blocked maybe?]

    So I guess I get to start digging around this weekend. I really should have diag. Could rule out a few of those easily enough in half an our.

    [Edit again: Seems the check engine light keeps flashing up. So I am guessing it is likely to be something that diag monitors. FIP or #4? Anything else I need to check which could flash the check engine?]
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2022
  20. Grrrrrr

    Grrrrrr Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd Full Member

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    Check modulation but suspect chain stretch or FIP on its way out. A tired lift-pump wouldn't help, especially if blocked with bacterial growth should anyone have slipped some cooking oil or chip-fat in there recently.
     
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