Went mondo today.is new vcu damper very important?

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OldIrishWulf

OldIrishWulf

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Great green Hibernia .
I had to whip out the propshaft today,massive difference.For the past few weeks I thought it might be a knackered drive shaft or the perished bottom engine mount.
Driving anything over 40 the hippo felt like it was going to shake apart,it felt like all the wheels were going in different directions.I slid under it on the icy gravel and felt the propshaft bearings were very loose.
I took it to the local tyre shop to check the tracking,the lad set it up reckoned the tracking was ok so he lifted it so i could take a look.He reckoned it was most likely the bearings,didn't charge me. :D
Now its going great but i want it back to 4x4,will change propshaft bearings,but not sure if the vcu damper is totally necessary the one on it seems quite knackered.
Oh i took off the whole prop, wasnt expecting diff oil,so i used the flange from the end of the back prop.;)

I thought i saw a new vcu damper on ebay for under £20,try as i may i can't find one for under £60.
So back to my initial question is it very important.
Thanx in advance.:blabla: Ido go on..
 
Ok,sorry it was late when i posted this question.After searching I think maybe after 168k miles i might need a new vcu to return to 4x4.

Glad I got in here before I got the usual SEARCH YOU IDIOT type of response,but I didnt read any where that breaking the rear prop/diff UJ and using the flange to blank off the rear diff.
 
Thanx mhm,just drove 20miles, there is still a wobble,i suspect it could be the lower engine mount,or driver side drive shaft.
Like most people on this forum,who im sure consider a thread titled WHAT NEXT,I just wish I could cure every fault and enjoy the thing.
 
The one good thing I can say about mondo,when the running gear does what its supposed to specially in the front....that remindsme I need to replage the diff bushes,might aswell do the exhaust bushes too,,,,and why not a set of rear dampers springs and drive shafts.
I digress,it really skipps about nicely in the wheel drive,the reason I removed my propshaft was trying to fix a wobble that made the whole vehicle seem to be going in different directions.It got so bad 50 just about felt safe.The only thing that seemed loose enough to cause such a rattle was the prop shaft,I might have typed it previosly,but,this prop was acting like a pendulum for want of another description,it magnified the momentum of the wobble caused by the knackered drive shaft.

Ive come to the conclusion that drive shafts should be considered a consumable,that should be replaced at a 100,000-150k, AND removing the propshaft is a benifit for long bursts up to the top of the island,covering motorways and a mixture of roads.I would still remove the complete propshaft,vcu everything(too much scare mongering going on in alot of the threads,total paranoia),its easy.I am looking forward to the day I reattach that drive shaft,all I will do is clean the bushes a wash with soapy water,let them dry and spray a good squirt of silicone spray to rejuvinate the rubber.

I'm nearly half way to a perfect set of wheels.
 
OldIrishWulf said:
The one good thing I can say about mondo,when the running gear does what its supposed to specially in the front....that remindsme I need to replage the diff bushes,might aswell do the exhaust bushes too,,,,and why not a set of rear dampers springs and drive shafts.
I digress,it really skipps about nicely in the wheel drive,the reason I removed my propshaft was trying to fix a wobble that made the whole vehicle seem to be going in different directions.It got so bad 50 just about felt safe.The only thing that seemed loose enough to cause such a rattle was the prop shaft,I might have typed it previosly,but,this prop was acting like a pendulum for want of another description,it magnified the momentum of the wobble caused by the knackered drive shaft.

Ive come to the conclusion that drive shafts should be considered a consumable,that should be replaced at a 100,000-150k, AND removing the propshaft is a benifit for long bursts up to the top of the island,covering motorways and a mixture of roads.I would still remove the complete propshaft,vcu everything(too much scare mongering going on in alot of the threads,total paranoia),its easy.I am looking forward to the day I reattach that drive shaft,all I will do is clean the bushes a wash with soapy water,let them dry and spray a good squirt of silicone spray to rejuvinate the rubber.

I'm nearly half way to a perfect set of wheels.
Click to expand...

I'm quite impressed with it in 2WD mode ,been driving it for a couple of weeks now and it's no big deal as it's just used on the roads.
I just removed the complete prop.
I'll probably put it back to full 4WD before next winter by fitting a new VCU and bearings (if an X trail doesn't come along first ):behindsofa:
'Bye the way where are you ? I'm over in Kenmare .
 
steely dan said:
I'm quite impressed with it in 2WD mode ,been driving it for a couple of weeks now and it's no big deal as it's just used on the roads.
I just removed the complete prop.
I'll probably put it back to full 4WD before next winter by fitting a new VCU and bearings (if an X trail doesn't come along first ):behindsofa:
'Bye the way where are you ? I'm over in Kenmare .
Click to expand...

Can you please let me know what size Torx sockets needed to remove prop? Fancy mondo for spring summer. Tx
 
Hi Steely D,
this is the first time back to this thread since my last post.I refitted the prop a few hours ago,I would have done it yesterday but I wrecked a universal joint.I bought a new uj from reliance bearings in little island for €12.70,Johnson&Perrot (lr stealer)wanted €67+vat.
First thing I had to do was take it for a drive down a farmers track into the woods.I followed the tractor wheel ruts till the rear subframe started to get caught up.It was reassuring to feel the rear wheels pushing me on,pity about the ground clearance.
I never got around to checking the mpg in 2wd but I reckon I was getting way over 50miles more from a full tank.
To answer your question I live a few miles north/east of cork city.

DD3 I used my ratchet spanners to loosen and tighten the torx bolts.You'll need a 8mm ring and a 13mm ring or open for the front,and a 10mmring and 17mm open/ring for the rear.
But if you want to go buy a set of torx sockets,that's up to you.

edit:I think there's more power going uphill with the prop in place
 
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