Disco 1 Welding...

Has anyone had experience welding the sills and foot wells on a d1?
The new toy needs considerable tlc through the foot wells which is fine as I need to replace that section with stronger steel for the cage anyway, however I'm dubious about cutting the sills and the floor out together, in intending to leave the solid bit surrounding the body mount and the b pillar in place.. this should still be strong enough to take the wight of the shell should it not?? After all the bulkhead and rear off the shell is still intact..
Also when doing the sills I'm cutting the whole lot out and replacing with 80x40mm box section to incorporate side impact protection and rock slider support so I intend to get that in pretty sharp once the sills out so has anyone got any tips for cutting the sills out?
Cheers

I used 120 x 60mm box section to replace the non existent sills.
Once you start cutting the sills and floor, you'll be amazed how much crumbles away
I'll try and find some photos

biggeeeee said:

I used 120 x 60mm box section to replace the non existent sills.
Once you start cutting the sills and floor, you'll be amazed how much crumbles away
I'll try and find some photos

Click to expand...

Cheers didn't think I'd be the first to tackle this..
I'd rather find it all now than after an impact with an immobile object..
Thankfully the bulkhead seems fairly solid above the inner arch which all needs upgrading anyway..
pics would be of great interest

That's exactly what I was thinking.. cheers helps a lot...

There is an inner sill with the body mounts and an outer sill that extends into the floor. Pretty straight forward job to replace.

RallyHippo said:

I'm cutting the whole lot out and replacing with 80x40mm box section

Click to expand...

I want to ask why 80*40 - I'd use 120*60*3 - its stronger, and fits straight in...
That said...., I've done a few of these - and with reasonable precautions, it really is amazing how much of the structure can be either missing or taken out, without the roof collapsing....
Support the floor off the chassis with wooden blocks/wedges cut to size - and keep heat away from them !! - IME, the key area is the bottom of the C pillar, where it joins to the rear arch, AND the top of the C pillar, where it joins to the roof - this is the bit that seems to "dissapear" on sunroof models, and it can be quite critical - a crease in the roof line in this area is not a good sign......

Body mounts are available from easy-on panels ( and others ) - as weld on items. Weld them on in situ, or you might have a hell of a job fitting the new super strong sill you have made....

Disco1BFG said:

I want to ask why 80*40 - I'd use 120*60*3 - its stronger, and fits straight in...
That said...., I've done a few of these - and with reasonable precautions, it really is amazing how much of the structure can be either missing or taken out, without the roof collapsing....
Support the floor off the chassis with wooden blocks/wedges cut to size - and keep heat away from them !! - IME, the key area is the bottom of the C pillar, where it joins to the rear arch, AND the top of the C pillar, where it joins to the roof - this is the bit that seems to "dissapear" on sunroof models, and it can be quite critical - a crease in the roof line in this area is not a good sign......

Body mounts are available from easy-on panels ( and others ) - as weld on items. Weld them on in situ, or you might have a hell of a job fitting the new super strong sill you have made....

Click to expand...

80x40 as I want strength but as low weight as possible and the floor panels have to be 2mm anyway for the cage strength as it's for competition use rather than off roading the sills aren't going to take all the hammer as there's going to be underguarding and a secondary chassis mounted slider mounted to the 80x40 as well as the chassis.. so 120x60 would just be overkill for my needs, in fairness 80x40 is as the regulations only call for 40x40 to be fitted in place of the sill to increase side impact protection at sill level.. although if your saying 120x60 fits straight in then I might look at 60 x60 as that works out the same on weight as the 80x40

the c pillar is going to be completely removed on mine anyway once the sill and floor is strengthened as it's going to be a pickup conversion with a custom rear back.. so I'm not too worried about back there all I've got to do is the floor back to the rear arch then the new body is fitted in anyhow..