Weber carb

Hi fellas,

Any1 put a weber carburettor on there 2.25 petrol S111?


My carb is buggered! Running far too rich even with the choke in! I think the needle valve needs cleaning of muck, I've got a zenith carb incase anybody knows any secret tips!

What is the weber like? Does anybody recommend it?

I've put a full new exhaust system on aswell, and need to bolt it to the chassis, the old fittings were rusty and needed sawing off! Any1 know were the best place to bolt to the chassis is?


Cheers fellas


J

Carbs aren't too difficult to strip and rebuild and overhaul kits are reasonably inexpensive. Zenith bodies are prone to warping and flooding - there's plenty of guides on the internet on fixing this.
Here's the front mount for the exhaust on a SWB



and a not too good one of the rear

Got a weber on the s2, many conflicting opinions with carbs. Zenith seem to be troublesome, but give better fuel consumption, then the solex, and finally the weber.

Weber does suffer vapour lock/freezing problems apparently - not that I have had any really noticable problems apart from the cold spell, meant cranking over and flicking the pedal 'old style' whereas normally you just touch the button and she purrs.

I put a new zenith on mine about 15 years ago and it's been as good as gold. Probably wants a strip and clean by now.

jamie55 said:

Hi fellas,

Any1 put a weber carburettor on there 2.25 petrol S111?


My carb is buggered! Running far too rich even with the choke in! I think the needle valve needs cleaning of muck, I've got a zenith carb incase anybody knows any secret tips!

What is the weber like? Does anybody recommend it?

I've put a full new exhaust system on aswell, and need to bolt it to the chassis, the old fittings were rusty and needed sawing off! Any1 know were the best place to bolt to the chassis is?


Cheers fellas


J

Click to expand...

I had a Webber on my 2.25 and it worked well... Did a strip down service about a year a go which was very straight forward

It's now surplus to requirements and could be looking for a new home for the right price...

:nospamhere:

Let me know if your interested

I had a webber on mine and i hated the bastid thing. would cut out every junction. i couldnt mess wif it to get it to stop doing it. so i fitted a 1 3/4 SU, threw away the oil bath filter and have had more power, more economy and no sodding cutting out.

tho im open to suggestions that my webber in particular was crap - everyone else who has one seems to like em. but my SU is better

1396midget said:

I had a webber on mine and i hated the bastid thing. would cut out every junction. i couldnt mess wif it to get it to stop doing it. so i fitted a 1 3/4 SU, threw away the oil bath filter and have had more power, more economy and no sodding cutting out.

tho im open to suggestions that my webber in particular was crap - everyone else who has one seems to like em. but my SU is better

Click to expand...

Sounds like it just needed a service and setting up correctly

Weber?
Have fitted half a dozen or more.
economy very good.
no leaks.
can ice up.
cheaper than SU.
if you do have a cheap SU method please share it.

was cheap for me. carb (1 3/4 'old' size, is a HIF44 'new' size) from a rover metro 1.4 8V K series. Needle is right (surprising but true! - would have been a bit rich new but with 120K on it is OK). made adaptor plate out of 10mm thick ally, it bolts to the webber adaptor, so it uses original manifold. drilled hole in accelerator rod linkage, joined short cable from bike brakes. joined choke cable up. joined crankcase breather to place on SU. fuel joined up the same. used rover filter and housing. total cost = zero, but i had all the bits. airflow comes in over 'electrical' side of engine then SU is angled so that air goes 180 into engine - the metro had it like this as well, so that was particularly neat. bowl of carb sits inside curve of inlet manifold, might need a heat shield in the summer.

landy now does 22 - 25 mpg and is noticably faster accelerating. leaks less oil too, possibly because crankcase breather goes on engine side of butterfly with the SU so the vacuum is bigger than between the carb and the oil bath like it was on the webber.

only disadvantage is revving from idle it doesnt pick up as fast if you stab the throttle. this is unnoticeable in normal driving though.

i'll take some pictures later if that'd be helpful.

1396midget said:

I had a webber on mine and i hated the bastid thing. would cut out every junction. i couldnt mess wif it to get it to stop doing it. so i fitted a 1 3/4 SU, threw away the oil bath filter and have had more power, more economy and no sodding cutting out.

tho im open to suggestions that my webber in particular was crap - everyone else who has one seems to like em. but my SU is better

Click to expand...

Reading with interest how you fitted that - some pics would be great! Iv got a 1 3/4 su with some sort of adapter elbow thing off a scrapped series 3. Just gotta fettle it up and work out how the thing goes on. Would i have to get the mixture set or just worry about idle mix/stop on the su?

My weber is a bugger for cutting out if you brake when in neutral. Or for no apparent reason.

If you are going to fit SU , you just need to make up an adapter elbow, as they need to be mounted as a side draught carb , unlike the weber, solex etc which are downdraft.
They are also usually cable operated, so you need a short cable , with a bracket to bolt on firewall to hold outer cable and fit inner to arm on rod linkage , passenger footwell . They are much more fuel efficient than the d/d type carbs . 2" HIFF type would be better match (2 litre Ital/marina) . Dont put thick oil in damper only ATF 3in1 etc .

fitted a new weber to mine and has run much better since...did need a tune up after a couple of hundred miles though

here's 3

Land Rover - a set on Flickr

the SU on the metro is mounted at about 45 degrees, so half way between side-draught and down-draught. you can see the 45 degree elbow under the carb, this came with the metro bit.

older ones have a rotatable seperate float chamber so you can run them up to 60 degrees, this one's got it in the bottom and ive no idea how it's OK with that angle, but that's how it was in the metro.

i figured twins would be overcooking it and a massive fanny to make a manifold - from my experience it seems to be best to match the horsies to the carb, rather than the engine size - so a carb off a 75bhp metro works on a 75 bhp landy. this also worked with twin 1 1/2s on the tuned midget from an MGB, and means the needles are OK.

mixture wise i set it at idle with a gunson colourtune and the adjuster thingy, set the idle and away we go.

i've got a little program called WIN-SU for comparing needles, apparently the powerplus SU kit uses a BGB needle, the one in the metro is very similar but a bit lean everywhere. they wear in the jet so atfer 120K i figger it'l be about right. loks right on the colortune anyways, doesn't run too hot (not too lean) and does more mpg (not too rich)

Hi fellas,

Not had chance to take the carb to bits yet! Doing it tomorow on the day off!

Skint this month so will be keepin the original one for the time being. What is the best way to service the carb, runs far too rich so assuming it needs servicing.

Cheers j

jamie55 said:

Hi fellas,

Not had chance to take the carb to bits yet! Doing it tomorow on the day off!

Skint this month so will be keepin the original one for the time being. What is the best way to service the carb, runs far too rich so assuming it needs servicing.

Cheers j

Click to expand...

You'll need a can of carb cleaner and at least a gasket set if not a complete overhaul kit. Strip and clean all the bits then reassemble in a clean environment. I cut the side out of a cardboard box and put it on the bench to give me a clean surface where it's difficult to lose the bits.
On the Zenith carb the O ring under the emulsion block hardens and can dribble fuel into the manifold which causes rich running. It's also prone to warping of the main body which can be sorted with a sheet of glass and some fine wet and dry.

1396midget said:

here's 3

Land Rover - a set on Flickr

the SU on the metro is mounted at about 45 degrees, so half way between side-draught and down-draught. you can see the 45 degree elbow under the carb, this came with the metro bit.

older ones have a rotatable seperate float chamber so you can run them up to 60 degrees, this one's got it in the bottom and ive no idea how it's OK with that angle, but that's how it was in the metro.

i figured twins would be overcooking it and a massive fanny to make a manifold - from my experience it seems to be best to match the horsies to the carb, rather than the engine size - so a carb off a 75bhp metro works on a 75 bhp landy. this also worked with twin 1 1/2s on the tuned midget from an MGB, and means the needles are OK.

mixture wise i set it at idle with a gunson colourtune and the adjuster thingy, set the idle and away we go.

i've got a little program called WIN-SU for comparing needles, apparently the powerplus SU kit uses a BGB needle, the one in the metro is very similar but a bit lean everywhere. they wear in the jet so atfer 120K i figger it'l be about right. loks right on the colortune anyways, doesn't run too hot (not too lean) and does more mpg (not too rich)

Click to expand...

That is an awesome help thanks!
As it came off a landrover im hoping someone else has sorted out the needles, if it seems more gutless thank usual i could always swap over the needles and retune it. I may keep an eye out for a 2inch su and give that a try..

All eyes here...

morning chaps,

been a while since i posted this fred up. lots has changed since then job wise etc.

Landy is now working and am now looking to put a weber on it...

some supposed 'land rover guru' round my end reckons ill need a supporting plate or bracket because my s3 is ex military.

Any truth in this?

I replaced a very old Weber 34 ICH with a brand new one, works great! Pretty easy to set up too.

cool, will give it a go when it arrives

cheers