Disco 2 Waxoyl or Not

Hi all, there seems to be no definitive answer to what's best in terms of cost vs protection, but I really would like to get the Moosemobile undersealed waxoyled,(is that a verb?) or coated. There are so many conflicting things but I do need to get the job done. I see all sorts of adverts and don't know what to believe. What would you guys recommend?
Anyone know of anywhere that does the job? Of any types of coating? ( I can't crawl under it myself, for medical reasons, and I can't send in the wife or I'll be single very fast) I live in Thanet, (Margate Broadstairs Ramsgate) East Kent.

Anything you can do to reduce the corrosion that might attack has got to be worth it. "Waxoyl" these days seems to get used in much the same fashion as "Hoover", but there are better products nowadays.
Underseal with heavy products which sort of rubberise the underside can cause areas of moisture to develop which can result in inexplicable patches of corrosion appearing.
Many members will recommend Dinitrol or Bilt Hamber as a better alternative to Waxoyl, but whatever you choose, it will need to be inspected regularly and re-applied about every five years.
As for where to send your vehicle, I've no idea, you're the opposite side of the country to me, but when I last did mine I bought the Dinitrol stuff as a "kit" on ebay and had my local indie garage do the job.

Bilt hamber Dynax is about the best available at the moment - v good stuff and fairly economical too. Buy direct or if you can't find it then dinitrol is also quite good.
Have a google for "Bilt Hamber salt spray test" for a very revealing independant test. As mentioned "Waxoyl" is generally the name used for all cavity waxing products now - ironic really, as if we all used the Waxoyl equivalent for Vacuum cleaners instead of "Hoover" it would be something like "I'm just going to drag the muddy dog around the carpet before attacking it with the strimmer..."

Hi Muppetdaze,

The big question is what is the mileage, where has it lived and what has it been used for? i am the owner of a waxoiling company. I have many satisfied customers. Some people hate me.

First of all, I think waxoyl is the best bet on what is going to be a very rusty vehicle. I have been using it since 1987 in my business because I think it is the only thing which works on rust. I have found that if the rust is stripped right back and a very thick coat is applied, it can last for several years. I'll be honest with you, I think a diy or local garage effort is going to last a year at most and won't do anything at all on heavily rusted areas.

If the vehicle has a mileage higher than about 120,000 miles and/or lives by the seaside (which yours does) you are going to have rot in the rear 1/4 of the chassis where it curves over the rear axle. It may have passed the mot but if you get a flat bladed screwdriver and drive it hard into the chassis I will bet you a pound to a penny that it's rotten and needs welding. The other problematical part is in the inner face of the chassis a little further down. You will find that there is such heavy rust that the rust if forming laminations. The laminations need to be chiseled off before anything is applied. So you need to get the chassis very clean and sort out those two areas before anything is applied. If someone tells you that this or that product that they use is the best, ask them if they give a guarantee and for how long? Can they put you in touch with customers who had the vehicle re-treated under the guarantee?

brian47 said:

Anything you can do to reduce the corrosion that might attack has got to be worth it. "Waxoyl" these days seems to get used in much the same fashion as "Hoover", but there are better products nowadays.
Underseal with heavy products which sort of rubberise the underside can cause areas of moisture to develop which can result in inexplicable patches of corrosion appearing.
Many members will recommend Dinitrol or Bilt Hamber as a better alternative to Waxoyl, but whatever you choose, it will need to be inspected regularly and re-applied about every five years.
As for where to send your vehicle, I've no idea, you're the opposite side of the country to me, but when I last did mine I bought the Dinitrol stuff as a "kit" on ebay and had my local indie garage do the job.

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Agreed, 100% - I had been using waxoil for donkeys years - When first launched in the 70's, my Father and I started using on tractors and our LR's to protect against cow sh*t - it worked well.

About ten years ago (?) we switched to Bilt Hamber as the Waxoil stuff had, IMHO, been "domesticated" - all the nasty chemicals have, IMHO been taken out to make it "safe" - and I'd say that, as such it is now next to useless. I know people who use Dinitrol, and to me, at least, they are equivalent product ranges - YMMV. Both have amazing rust removal products - Dinitrol's de-ox it gel (SP?) is incredible stuff - lots of info here:-

https://www.dinitroldirect.com/

Dintrol list "treatment centres" on their website - worth a look

Keep away from underseal - it is awful stuff - and will rot good metal in front of your eyes .

You're stuck between a rock and hard place if you can't do it yourself - you might find a local indie with a brain to do the job for you, but you need to make sure any rot has been dealt with first. Sadly, with the D2, the only way of dealing with major chassis rot is a new galv chassis - but not many people seem to have the stomach for this level of investment..

mmm..... SPAM anyone?



Given the dodgy mixed reviews of a lot of 'specialist' companies doing it, see if you can find someone local and trusted who will do a good job.

As for Mr Spam'n'Spam (can't believe he's still here, spamming the forum at will ) - I'd take any claims of "no one else can do this like me" with a hefty pinch salt. I think anyone with that much of an inflated opinion of his work is something else and as for saying that 'no one else can do it' is just rubbish quickly disproved by looking through rebuild threads the whole internet over.
Working on rusty cars obviously grants a licence to print money for some people...

I haven't been on LZ for ages, but saw the shambolic waxoyl thread the other day and it boiled my piss....

Saltlick said:

I'd take any claims of "no one else can do this like me"with a hefty pinch of salt

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Well, IMHO, if the pictures of the toyota in question are anything to go by, then it might be right - literally no one else could do that

Saltlick said:

but saw the shambolic waxoyl thread the other day and it boiled my piss....

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+1.

Muppetdaze said:

Hi all, there seems to be no definitive answer to what's best in terms of cost vs protection, but I really would like to get the Moosemobile undersealed waxoyled,(is that a verb?) or coated. There are so many conflicting things but I do need to get the job done. I see all sorts of adverts and don't know what to believe. What would you guys recommend?
Anyone know of anywhere that does the job? Of any types of coating? ( I can't crawl under it myself, for medical reasons, and I can't send in the wife or I'll be single very fast) I live in Thanet, (Margate Broadstairs Ramsgate) East Kent.

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hi and welcome

wished to also agree in what the other guys have said , do not go anywhere near the company called

“ before n after rustproofing “ done by cachophrastus , is a total cowboy

aplogises i can’t help with a local company

Saltlick said:

mmm..... SPAM anyone?

View attachment 136141

Given the dodgy mixed reviews of a lot of 'specialist' companies doing it, see if you can find someone local and trusted who will do a good job.

As for Mr Spam'n'Spam (can't believe he's still here, spamming the forum at will ) - I'd take any claims of "no one else can do this like me" with a hefty pinch salt. I think anyone with that much of an inflated opinion of his work is something else and as for saying that 'no one else can do it' is just rubbish quickly disproved by looking through rebuild threads the whole internet over.
Working on rusty cars obviously grants a licence to print money for some people...

I haven't been on LZ for ages, but saw the shambolic waxoyl thread the other day and it boiled my piss....

Click to expand...

shame he couldn’t get banned to stop anyone else getting stitched up

cachophrastus said:

Hi Muppetdaze,

The big question is what is the mileage, where has it lived and what has it been used for? i am the owner of a waxoiling company. I have many satisfied customers. Some people hate me.

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And just to keep things balanced

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/waxoil.323244/

I totally agree on that. I did see something that BB posted in warning about duplicate accounts getting an instant ban - is that him though?

Saltlick said:

I totally agree on that. I did see something that BB posted in warning about duplicate accounts getting an instant ban - is that him though?

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it is indeed the same guy in that link who couldn’t even do a paint by numbers

No idea I just replied to post #4

Surely our Health freak wouldn't be that stupid?

gstuart said:

it is indeed the same guy in that link who couldn’t even do a paint by numbers

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Yeah, I thought so, so why is he still here @blue beasty ?

I think his username should be edited to Scam-ophrastus

I haven't got a problem with anyone giving their opinion when asked. I removed the company name from the post but the rest is valid opinion though it's fair to say knowledge of other products by a specialist of one is probably very limited.

My advice would be having weighed opinion on the best product to use to search extensively here and elsewhere before giving money to anyone else to do it for you.

Hi wax oil is good if it's new metal however does trap in moisture...

Chain saw bar and chain oil is the ticket... Kills rust and protects for a long time after... Put the bottle in a bucket of hot water then spray it on once hot

Cheers

Saltlick said:

mmm..... SPAM anyone?

View attachment 136141

Given the dodgy mixed reviews of a lot of 'specialist' companies doing it, see if you can find someone local and trusted who will do a good job.

As for Mr Spam'n'Spam (can't believe he's still here, spamming the forum at will ) - I'd take any claims of "no one else can do this like me" with a hefty pinch salt. I think anyone with that much of an inflated opinion of his work is something else and as for saying that 'no one else can do it' is just rubbish quickly disproved by looking through rebuild threads the whole internet over.
Working on rusty cars obviously grants a licence to print money for some people...

I haven't been on LZ for ages, but saw the shambolic waxoyl thread the other day and it boiled my piss....

Click to expand...

OK. I was just trying to be helpful.

Working on rusty cars obviously grants a licence to print money for some people...

Click to expand...

So if that is the case, why did Rustmaster, The Waxworks and Pristine Autos all go bust after exactly 5 years? If it's such a licence to print money, why don't you set up shop yourself?

cachophrastus said:

OK. I was just trying to be helpful.

So if that is the case, why did Rustmaster, The Waxworks and Pristine Autos all go bust after exactly 5 years? If it's such a licence to print money, why don't you set up shop yourself?

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Coz Waxoyl is crap and they realised that they couldn't rip customers off any more

would be my guess

Iancorky said:

Coz Waxoyl is crap and they realised that they couldn't rip customers off any more

would be my guess

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Dinotrol gets my vote ,

Muppetdaze said:

Hi all, there seems to be no definitive answer to what's best in terms of cost vs protection, but I really would like to get the Moosemobile undersealed waxoyled,(is that a verb?) or coated. There are so many conflicting things but I do need to get the job done. I see all sorts of adverts and don't know what to believe. What would you guys recommend?
Anyone know of anywhere that does the job? Of any types of coating? ( I can't crawl under it myself, for medical reasons, and I can't send in the wife or I'll be single very fast) I live in Thanet, (Margate Broadstairs Ramsgate) East Kent.

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I think they are all OK, provided you use them properly. Like all coatings, preparation is everything. You need to get the metal as clean, dry, and rust free as possible before application.

And make sure you use the right product in the right places. Thick stuff on the outside. But, as stated, never underseal.
And thin stuff on the inside. The name says it all, cavity wax.

Personally, I like to scrape and paint the outside, and spray Dinitrol cavity wax outside. But I am good at scraping and painting, and have the kit.
I think any of the products, or even oil on the inside, will give good results if painstakingly prepped and applied.
If the prep isn't good, none of them will work.