Freelander 1 Water Loss

CastawayRobinson · Oct 25, 2016

Hi
I am sure that some knowledgeable bod out there will know this.

My TD4 has done 10k. Always serviced by a Landie garage. Yesterday the auxilary belt for the alternator broke. It looks generally in good condition...not cracked. I got home (abut 4 slow miles)..Have ordered a new belt will changethe a belt too...first time fix for me...but I also noticed that the cool level has gone. No water in the oil. All pulleys seem ok. Can't see any leak from anywhere. Is this a big problem, a symptom, or just one of those things...did not notice steam when I got home so don't think engine was too hot...but the temp gauge was swinging wildly on the way home and there was a lack of power. Cheers.

Nodge68 · Oct 25, 2016

My TD4 looses a drop of coolant over time.
However if you drove with the aux belt broken? You probably boiled the coolant off. The water pump is driven by the aux belt. So no belt = no coolant circulation = localised coolant boiling. This could well have blown the coolant past the pressure cap.

teddywood1 · Oct 26, 2016

while you are changing the small belt put a new big one on as well, as you have to remove the big belt to do the small one and the auto tensioner is 25mm ring spanner for the big belt the small belt you undo the tensioner , it is a small bolt I think 10mm .hope this helps

CastawayRobinson · Oct 28, 2016

Thanks for the info. i have changed the ac belt but struggling to get the aux belt back on. The spanner slips sometimes and I and worried about rounding the bolt off. How can I remove tne tension, hold the spanner and get the belt on? Any hints or tips would be great. Thank.

Nodge68 · Oct 28, 2016

Use a single hex socket, as it's less likely to slip

CastawayRobinson · Oct 28, 2016

I have a 24mm ring spanner. i do not have a socket that big, and don't think it would fit anyway due to the height would cause it to jam against the bodywork.

andyfreelandy · Oct 29, 2016

O.K there is a knack to this - having just done it, firstly use the diagram on this site to route the belt and just let it hang by the tension pulley. Use a flattish 24mm ring spanner and fit it squarely to the nut (with the belt ready to pull over the pulley. To avoid a rounded bolt head, find a small piece of wood (about 1" thick from memory) and jam it tight between the chassis and the top of the bolt (with the spanner on). Then, get comfy, in a position where you are not going to knacker your back !!! Put one hand on the spanner and move it firmly (if it won't move, try the other direction) whilst using the other hand to pull the belt over the pulley. DO NOT put your fingers between the belt and the pulley - it hurts !!!!!!

andyfreelandy · Oct 29, 2016

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/replace-the-ancillary-drive-belt-td4.75402/#post-745049

This is good !!! Thanks Michiel

CastawayRobinson · Oct 29, 2016

andyfreelandy said:
O.K there is a knack to this - having just done it, firstly use the diagram on this site to route the belt and just let it hang by the tension pulley. Use a flattish 24mm ring spanner and fit it squarely to the nut (with the belt ready to pull over the pulley. To avoid a rounded bolt head, find a small piece of wood (about 1" thick from memory) and jam it tight between the chassis and the top of the bolt (with the spanner on). Then, get comfy, in a position where you are not going to knacker your back !!! Put one hand on the spanner and move it firmly (if it won't move, try the other direction) whilst using the other hand to pull the belt over the pulley. DO NOT put your fingers between the belt and the pulley - it hurts !!!!!!

CastawayRobinson · Oct 29, 2016

Thanks to everyone for the help. Got it done eventually.

It turns out the torsion pulley bolt was undoing itself. So what I did:-
Spanner on nut then jam a piece of wood to hold it on. Put an allen key in the bolt on the roller below the torsion roller (I put the belt on the torsion roller but not the roller under it...but put the allen key through the belt).
I clamped mole grips onto the end of the spanner to increase the leverage. pulling hard (anticlockwise) on the mole grips now moves the spanner about the allen key pivot so moving the torsion roller...then the belt can be wiggled onto the roller.

All good now...at last.

GrumpyGel · Oct 30, 2016

Don't know what you were moaning about in the first place - that sounds blinking easy.... like Quantum Physics !!!!!

CastawayRobinson · Oct 30, 2016

Lucky we buy these "field fixable" vehicles. Can't wait until I can afford to go on expedition with a Discovery Sprot...or whatever it is called.

teddywood1 · Oct 30, 2016

He is how I did it I put the belt around all the pulleys but left it of the main bottom pulley the held it in place on the bottom pulley with my thumb while I had a spanner on the bolt 22mm and taking great care winding it clock wise and kept checking that the belt was not coming off anywhere as this was the four attempt , and you could see the tensioner being pulled in , and just a bit more and it was on the bottom pulley then I checked all of the pulley,s and all was ok so started up the engine and great and it sounded better with no clicking , but one word of warning make sure it is not in gear for manual cars and have it in park for autos good luck

Freelander 1 Water Loss

CastawayRobinson

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Nodge68

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teddywood1

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CastawayRobinson

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Nodge68

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CastawayRobinson

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andyfreelandy

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andyfreelandy

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CastawayRobinson

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GrumpyGel

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CastawayRobinson

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