V8 timing

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jensencars

New Member
Posts
8
Location
kent
Hi
Have a 88 RRC 3.5 EFI have had problems trying to get it to run smooth, looking in the manual there are various settings from 6 degrees before up to 1 degree before if I set it stationary to 1 degree before tdc it doesn't pick up very well from tickled and coughs back a bit, it seems to run better on 6 degrees before tdc but not perfect, I have tested by altering timing free hand and the best running point when checked with the timing light was around 25 degrees btc strange!!!
Anyone have a timing setting that works well I'm running a powerspark dizzy as the lucas one was badly worn and I couldn't get a replacement..
Thanks
 
86 RRC 3.5EFi. LR manual says TDC +/- 1 deg.
I also run on LPG & the timing is set as far advanced as I can for petrol as I haven't got one of those electronic advance things for switching between the 2.
Currently around 6 deg BTDC.
This from another website:
Its also worth noting that the best ignition timing in any given engine, is to achieve the most advance it can tolerate without pinking. ( Audible pre-ignition).

This is achieved by setting your V8 timing to about 4 deg. BTDC (assuming you've been through the distributor check list completely). Then tighten the distributor so that you can (with effort) still turn it by hand. ideally put a tip-ex mark or small scratch on the distributor body and engine block to record this spot.

Next road test the car and simulate high load by quickly shifting into a high gear or if Auto allow to change quickly up to 3rd or 4th Ideally you need to find a small hill or incline, now if you apply full throttle the engine should respond without pinking, find a safe place to pull over, open the bonnet and turn the distributor through a couple of degrees only, anticlockwise, this will add slightly more advance timing and if you do the same test, and repeat it until pinking is noticed you will be very close to your absolute best timing criteria

So now all you need to do is turn the distributor clockwise by the same amount by an amount to counteract the last adjust, retest for the absence of pinking and that the job done, you will have just achieved the best maximum timing position for your car''
 
Further to the above.
Are your leads of decent quality, in good condition & routed per the manual to avoid any rick of crossfiring? Leads & plugs should be regarded as service items & replaced periodically.

Use decent quality rotor arms of the type that have the metal strip moulded in. Do not use the type that have the metal strip riveted on, these are known to cause problems & not just on Land Rovers.

There are some poor pattern dizzy caps around. I had to use one a few years ago & had a misfire at speed on LPG & in damp conditions a misfire on petrol.
The pattern one has the lead pickups fully exposed & lacks the ribbing found inside the good ones.
Replaced with a Lucas which has the ribs & the pickups are covered in plastic apart from the bit that actually faces the rotor arm. No more misfire.
 
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LR's W/S manual for '88 with hotwire & cat lists 6 degrees +/- 1 BTDC @ 800rpm.
Trouble is you never know what PO's may have been up to or even if the timing marks are dead accurate. My '87 is very sensitive to timing & will pink at higher revs under acceleration if I go above TDC which is the manuf. setting for that year.
nb: running the car on 97 octane (the recommended grade) made absolutely no difference to using standard 95, though I do avoid supermarket fuel.
nb: I run on petrol only, no LPG here :cool:
 
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I found on my 110 the original ignition system was far too weak, so I gave my ignition system a boost with a MSD 6AL digital with a MSD Blaster coil, I will never look back, starting from cold is a breeze.

But as above I have my timing set to 6 degrees BTDC and im idling around 800 RPM.
 
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