Freelander 1 Urgent....Diesel leak

Seem to have a bit of a leak.
Driving home everything fine, stopped at the shop driving home and could suddenly smell diesel.
Had a look underneath and my sump is wet as is the pipe at the front of the engine with diesel.
Checked engine from above and all seems well, i could only see a patch of damp below the HP pump, sort of between the multi plug and the front of the engine(looking from the battery side)

Does this sound like typical HP pump leaking symptoms?

L Series or TD4?

My L Series spewed diesel when the leak back pipes failed - it runs down the block from the injectors though - the pipes on the 1 - 2 injectors were worse so most went down that end of the engine - I don't know if nos 3/4 with the right split would send it out around the pump.

Apologies, should have said TD4 (05)
Not pulled the covers/ intake pipes off yet but i can see some of the tops of the injectors and all seems dry.
Looks like i shouldn't be driving it
I have a 52 plate available for parts

The HP fuel-pump started leaking on my wife's 2006 TD4, no visible evidence of the source of the leak looking from above but it was pooling in the under-tray. Did an internet search and as it is the same engine as cars like the Rover 75 there was lots of info regarding symptoms, cures etc and I was convinced that this was the problem.
Assuming it is the pump you have a few options:- New pump (expensive), rebuilt pump (still expensive and you have to hope it has been rebuilt correctly), secondhand pump (would YOU trust an old pump which has the potential to leak just like your existing one?) and a DIY rebuild kit.
I went for the rebuild kit using parts & instructions from Allmakes Diesel Specialist, he has a website but I bought through Ebay
Freelander 2.0 TD4 Bosch Common Rail CP1 Fuel Pump Repair Kit + Instructions. Kit was top quality and the instructions were very clear (how to remove the pump is shown in the Haynes and is very straightforward but of course the manual shows nothing about rebuilding it as it is a "specialist" job). You need a BMW LANDROVER Diesel PUMP Puller Sprocket Removal Tool (I can let you have mine if you like) but after that it is all nuts & bolts. Some people say that you don't need to remove the aux drive belt and others that you don't need to remove the starter, all I can say is that each one only takes 10-minutes to remove you are doing yourself no favours leaving them on so you might as well take them off and have all the extra space.
All in all I did the job in about 6hrs and that included rebuilding the pump (the cylinders are in a "Y" formation so there are three pistons and sets of seals to replace). Rebuilding the pump is easy enough but make sure you are VERY clean, have LOTS of light, a magnifying glass and a steady hand and/or tweezers (the metal seals are tapered but I could not make them out with normal eyesight). On assembly, I used a small amount of vaseline to hold the seals in place, worked perfectly.
Everything refitted the engine started up straight away (no priming necessary) and was as good as gold (vehicle now sold).

Photo below shows the front of the engine with the pump removed. It shows very well the lower stud which is far easier to get to with the starter motor removed. Also it shows the gasket that should be replaced, this was the only other item I needed other than the removal tool and the seal-kit (gasket very cheap as a genuine part).

Thanks for the info.
I have a 52 plate TD4 sitting on the drive after the head gasket went a few weeks ago. I'm going to pull the pump and use that for the time being (was running perfectly prior) and rebuild this one when i have time.
Have been checking out the removal tools in preparation.
I'll take yours if it's surplus to requirements, will pay your asking price and postage

PM sent

Thanks for the pic, makes more sense with a picture.
Wondered about the starter motor removal when i was reading RAVE

What about the hydramount?

i had a sudden leak with the engine running a while back,it was coming from the pipe to the high pressure rail,tightened the union 1/4 turn and it stopped leaking.only issue was i needed the inlet manifold off to get at it.

I'm going to pull the pie work and inlet manifold off this morning to see where its coming from and go from there

Manged to get to have look after it stopped raining.

Taken inlet manifold,pipework and starter motor off. There is diesel on the engine block and that side of the pump. looks like its the pump seals then
When i started it up earlier it was streaming out from the bottom of the engine below crank pulley

Hi Pardec,
I'd say it was the HP pump, rebuild with new seals should do it. It's a bit tricky and you have to be good. When I finished I put some hot melt around the head caps to keep the weather out.

"What about the hydramount?"

That's the NS engine mount isn't it?
You just remove the bolts and take the top of the mounting off, nothing difficult or fancy.

Litch said:

"What about the hydramount?"

That's the NS engine mount isn't it?
You just remove the bolts and take the top of the mounting off, nothing difficult or fancy.

Click to expand...

*O/S*

Don't forget to support the engine before doing so.

O/S.
Yes of course.

Yep, thanks guys its all been removed, waiting for the repair kit to arrive now

Litch said:

O/S.
Yes of course.

Click to expand...

I've always found left/right (from driver's point of view) much more sensible than O/S and N/S anyway - latter terms depend on which side of the road you drive on!

Hi,

Sorry to revive this a little. I read the very useful guide above. I am just wondering if there is a list of tools that would be needed for this job?

Thanks

Kinger032007 said:

Hi,

Sorry to revive this a little. I read the very useful guide above. I am just wondering if there is a list of tools that would be needed for this job?

Thanks

Click to expand...

The pump sprocket retaining tool is the only special tool you need. It's purpose is to retain the sprocket in the correct place, and press the pump out of the taper too. The pump can't be removed without the tool.

The rest of the tools needed, are normal automotive hand tools, and a jack to support the engine while the mount is off.

Hi,

Thanks for the above info. I have undertaken this rebuilt the pump (fingers crossed correctly) just putting everything back together and I have a bolt unaccounted for. Massive long shot I know.. Does anyone have any ideas where it should be? For the life of me I can't find where!

Thanks