Turbo Whistle/squeal

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wofforduk

New Member
Posts
9
Hi All, I thought id put up a quick post before i start dismantling everything, to see if anyone else has come across this prob!

Basicaly, it sounds like i have an air leak when under heavy power, have blown a couple 90Deg rubber hoses (coming straight out of the turbo) which after a boy racer style sillicone hose has been fitted seems to have cured that.

But the squeal still remains. It is very similar to my old td5 disco that had popped the manu bolts.

Since i am going to strip it anyway i will bypass the EGR (using the penny method - otherwise just wasting money apart from a 1p coin... :D - apparently dont need anything else!)

just wondering if anyone has had anything like this?

As i dont know exactly where the sound is coming from as have to be driving under load my thoughts are:

Turbo Wastegate/vanes not right? - would explain popping the turbo hose.

Manu bolts knackered - would give the gasgety sound

manufold cracked

Intercooler leak (but cant see any oily tell tales..)

turbo breather - will clean/replace anyway.

EGR valve leaking?

Soo only a few things to check, are there any others that could be a problem?

Cheers!!
 
Possible waste gate issue....not sure to be honest...

BUT, I don't think the EGR penny trick works on the M57 engine in the L322 as the system is more complex than the M51 in the P38...the L322 relies on the EGR and this feeds info back to the ECU...in the P38, all it is , is a valve that opens and closes...the ECU knows nor cares if it works...the L322 is different!
 
sounds like it could be a turbo rebuild then... but needs to get fixed.

i have heard as its an early model that the ecu doesnt care as much as the later for the EGR, heard of a independent LR mechanic. one way to find out i spose...

lucky i have an all comms so can clear the fault if it arises.

Cheers
 
Sounds like turbo

Check all your hoses though for splits

Also get your crankcase breather changed to the upgraded cyclone type. These blocked filters are the reason the turbos fail on the TD6

The EGR can be removed all together without the car throwing any faults.
 
2.0_hippo said:
Sounds like turbo

Check all your hoses though for splits

Also get your crankcase breather changed to the upgraded cyclone type. These blocked filters are the reason the turbos fail on the TD6

The EGR can be removed all together without the car throwing any faults.
Click to expand...
Mine has no EGR and it runs fine.
 
perfect thanks.

plan is to check the simplist things first, like all the hoses and joins before removing it all!!

could be a silly q but is there a haynes for this car? survived so far without one but can be helpful for certain ways of doing stuff!
 
just taken most of it apart tonight, seems i am going to have to remove the injectors to get to the exhaust maufold. does this seem correct? i have a sooty patch next to the main exhaust manu- telling me the gasket has blown i think!

could be fun..
 
wofforduk said:
just taken most of it apart tonight, seems i am going to have to remove the injectors to get to the exhaust maufold. does this seem correct? i have a sooty patch next to the main exhaust manu- telling me the gasket has blown i think!

could be fun..
Click to expand...
Unless I'm imagining things, the injectors are on oposite side of the head from the exhaust manifold.
 
Datatek said:
I know that, but pretty unusual if the glowplugs are on the exhaust side and the OP is talking about turbo whistle so my thought was it's actually the inlet manifold blowing, plenty of black stuff in there from the EGR.:)
Click to expand...

Don't know Keith not stood at side of motor. Some of the posted descriptive details do leave a little to be desired. You know what i mean. Dear landyzone i have an oil patch on the drive. Where is it leaking from? :D:D:D
 
Okay you two!!

The injectors were sitting on the Cam cover which i had to remove to get to the exhaust manu below it. the soot patch was next to the exhaust manu.

bad news for me. exhaust studs on no. 1 cylinder have broken off - this is where my ability stops - having it trailered to a friendly independant. wallet has been prepared trust me! sounds like its a head off job and really dont wanna cock it up, so leave it to someone who has done it before.

At least i have got to the bottom of my little problem ( i hope :D )


thanks for the help so far!

Will
 
wofforduk said:
Okay you two!!

The injectors were sitting on the Cam cover which i had to remove to get to the exhaust manu below it. the soot patch was next to the exhaust manu.

bad news for me. exhaust studs on no. 1 cylinder have broken off - this is where my ability stops - having it trailered to a friendly independant. wallet has been prepared trust me! sounds like its a head off job and really dont wanna cock it up, so leave it to someone who has done it before.

At least i have got to the bottom of my little problem ( i hope :D )


thanks for the help so far!

Will
Click to expand...

Depends on access but they should be able to either remove the broken studs and replace them or drill out and helicoil for new ones with the head on. Can be a pig of a job though or easy peasy. Depends what gear they have. Is there any part of the studs showing past the flange or have they bust flush?
 
Last edited:
wammers said:
Don't know Keith not stood at side of motor. Some of the posted descriptive details do leave a little to be desired. You know what i mean. Dear landyzone i have an oil patch on the drive. Where is it leaking from? :D:D:D
Click to expand...
It's an odd head configuration from what I've seen, inlet is in the centre of the head looking at photos, between the cam shafts:confused:
 
If i had the kit (mill) then id be more than happy to give it a go but the probability of me cocking it up vs cost of new head kinda puts me off doing it. the guy im taking it too might be able to do it without taking the head off.

Yeah they have two inlet ports per cylinder, one either side of the cam shaft... very bizarre but hey whatever works!
 
wofforduk said:
If i had the kit (mill) then id be more than happy to give it a go but the probability of me cocking it up vs cost of new head kinda puts me off doing it. the guy im taking it too might be able to do it without taking the head off.

Yeah they have two inlet ports per cylinder, one either side of the cam shaft... very bizarre but hey whatever works!
Click to expand...

All you should need is a set of drill bushes and a holder for them. And some cobalt drills. Maybe they can be easy outed maybe not. I don't know what the access situation is.
 
After having this guy not turning up, and starting to desperately need the car back on the road, i am going to have a go at removing them myself. if i really bugger it up, theres a recon head on ebay (skimmed - valves ground ect) for £150 so now im not too concearned. want to avoid a head off situation at all costs tho - as dont want to touch the timing.

Will look into getting a bush to drill them out straight, will try an easy out but very highly doubt that will work as the others were serious sodds to shift (3ft extension bar). maybe by drilling the core out it may release some tension, and the drill might warm it all up a little but im not very hopeful on this one. one way to find out i spose!
 
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