Turbo wastegate at 0%

Gordy88 · Sep 3, 2014

Hi all,

Been getting a bit of smoke on the D2 TD5, sort of grey colour and pretty smelly

Took her a run, and the live date on hawkeye says that the wastegate is 0 %

Replaced the waste gate modulator beforehand, just seems strange that the reading is zero both stationary and moving.

I was erring towards turbo side, i recently replaced the front seal, and the new one leaks, thought i might be getting excess pressure in the engine

Any thoughts?

cheers

sierrafery · Sep 4, 2014

check fuse F2 in engine bay fusebox.... then we'll speak

Gordy88 · Sep 4, 2014

Thanks Sierrafery,

Had seen you mention F2 before and had checked it, did again just now and all is regular

Gordon

sierrafery · Sep 4, 2014

did you floor it well? cos the wastegate will open only at maximum boost in the rest of time it is 0, you must have manifold pressure above 200 for the wastegate modulator to start reacting... any fault codes?

Gordy88 · Sep 4, 2014

Yes, flat to floor, felt like abuse!!

No movement on waste gate reading, manifold pressure is about 102 kpa at tickover, 180 or so foot to floor in neutral, and getting to about 215 on the move

Some fault codes , egr stuck closed, its been removed, aap sensor fault, its off as well,

3007 3014 3030 3039 3145 3172

I dipped the oil this morning, I serviced her the other day, thinking an oil change would help, oil level was ok then, but off the dipstick today.

Ive dropped off the front pipe exhaust side of turbo is dry, as is the throat of the impeller side, cleaned intercooler, and all caf feed pipes, all were quite clean, hardly any muck in the intercooler at all.

MAF is reasonably new, MAP is clean, although there is a lot of black glar in the inlet manifold plenum. Injector harness isn't that old either, and the harness and red ecu plug are clean.

Inlet hoses arent collapsed, and when off, the CAF is sucking well

The turbo actuator seem very stiff, moveable with vise grips, but it feels notchy, modulater is a new LR part yeasterday

147 k, and had an easy enough life, 2 pensioner owners, then me, and im not rough on cars

cheers

sierrafery · Sep 4, 2014

Gordy88 said:
... aap sensor fault, its off as well.... ,

cheers

what do you mean AAP is off?... cos the wastegate modulator management is based exactly on this sensor too in conjunction with the MAP

Gordy88 · Sep 4, 2014

Aaaahh!

That could be it, it went faulty, car was going ok without it.

I never got round to replacing it, oops!

I'll stick a new one in and report back
thanks

sierrafery · Sep 4, 2014

the ECM was in default and your boost was limited to 1 bar then ...you just think the car was going ok without that

ENGINE MANAGEMENT Td5 - DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 18-1-11 said:
The AAP sensor is located in the top of the air filter housing. It provides voltage signals relative to both ambient air
pressure and temperature to the ECM. The AAP sensor produces a voltage between 0 and 5 volts proportional to the
pressure level of the air in the air filter housing. A reading of 0 volts indicates low pressure and a reading of 5 volts
indicates high pressure. The ECM uses the signal from the AAP sensor for the following functions:
l To maintain manifold boost pressure.
l To reduce exhaust smoke emissions while driving at high altitude.
l Control of the EGR system.
The sensor also supplies a voltage between 0v and 5v proportional to ambient temperature. The ECM uses this signal
for the following functions:
l Exhaust gas over temperature protection.
l Turbocharger overspeed protection.
Input/Output
Connector C0158 pin 8 of the ECM supplies the AAP sensor with a 5 volt power supply. The pressure output from the
AAP sensor is measured at pin 10 of the ECM connector C0158, the temperature output from the AAP sensor is
measured at pin 31. The earth path is via pin 30 of ECM connector C0158.
The AAP sensor can fail the following ways or supply incorrect signal:
l Sensor open circuit.
l Short circuit to vehicle supply.
l Short circuit to vehicle earth.
l Contaminated sensor element.
l Damaged sensor element.
l Resistance in wiring harness.
In the event of an AAP sensor signal failure any of the following symptoms may be observed:
l Altitude compensation inoperative (engine will produce black smoke).
l Active boost control inoperative. (*which means wastegate modulator, my note)
l Turbocharger boost pressure limited to 1 bar (14.5 psi ).
l EGR altitude compensation inoperative.
The MIL will not illuminate in an AAP sensor failure, and the ECM will use a fixed default value from its memory.

Gordy88 · Sep 5, 2014

Back again,

I refitted the AAP sensor, all fault codes have cleared down except for 'egr stuck closed'

Still smoking, and a bit harder to start, she was an instant starter, now its 3 or 4 cranks

The AAP has been off for about 3 months,the smoking has only been in the last week or so, at least noticeably so.

I noticed the smell when getting out of her before the smoke.

My live data now shows between 6 - 8 % wastegate, and the manifold pressures are the same as noted earlier in the thread.

At tickover, the cylinder roughness reading are plus or minus 1 -2 % flickering between the two, however when moving, that increases a bit, into double figures.

No evidence of coolant pressurisation either

Gordy

sierrafery · Sep 5, 2014

but what's the reading for the AAP on live data?... or what did you do? refitted the faulty AAP sensor? ...and if you know it's old put a new depression controll(crankcase breather) valve

Gordy88 · Sep 5, 2014

Fitted a used but serviceable unit, DCV is weeks old

I have the following live data readings,first is tickover, second is static at 3000 revs third is driving normally

intake air sensor 1.41 - 1.41 - 1.34

fuel sensor 1.04 - 1.04 - 1018

ambient pressure 102.1 - 101.8 - 100.1

amb press raw 102.9 - 101.6 - 102.4

manifold pressure 102.6 - 141 - 207

man press raw 103.3 - 150 - 203

air flow 54 - 388 - 447

maf sensor v 1.95 - 4.16 - 4.32

driver demand .89 - 1.54 - 2.35

driver demand 2 4.16 - 3.55 - 3.27

driver demand sup 5.04 - 5.04 - 5.04

idle speed error, -- flickers from minus 7 to plus 7

Gordy

sierrafery · Sep 5, 2014

the IAT(inlet air temp) part of the MAP/IAT sensor doesnt look good to me, especially that it should have increased together with the manifold pressure not drop.... put a new one to rule it out or read the inlet temperature not voltage before that

Gordy88 · Sep 5, 2014

Inlet temp is 58.3 and climbing when car fully warmed up and sitting idling

getting a voltage reading of 1.17v

As you say, i'll order a new MAP sensor and go from there.

Thanks 'Fery

sierrafery · Sep 5, 2014

the fact is that you didnt say exactly what's the symptom, you just said that the wastegate is at 0% but what's wrong though?

Gordy88 · Sep 9, 2014

Sorry Sierafery, thought i did!

Shes smoking at idle, quite bad, but not blown turbo bad if you follow.

No visible smoke when driving, although its hard to tell

I was away on the bike at the weekend in Scotland, and dropped her off at a local LR independant.

He found oil in the ecu and red plug, both of which were well cleaned a fortnight ago, and recommended a new full engine harness, at £400 plus fitting, he did swap the MAP for me as you suggested and the readings he got on his live data were the same as before.

Im not fussed on throwing 400 quid at her for a harness tbh, can a spliced soldered repair be carried out to your knowledge? or, have i an ecu on the blink?

As a side issue, which might be connected, sometimes when i start her now, the radio and wipers don't work, switch off and restart, and they do.

I'm starting to wonder if i have some electrical gremlin and perhaps should really pull every plug and fuse on the car out and clean it, or burn it

thanks

sierrafery · Sep 9, 2014

for the oil at the red plug you have to replace the injector loom not the engine harness, it's around 30 quid and do it ASAP... any diagnose untill it's not ruled out is useless, see this www.discovery2.co.uk / Workshop /Injector Harness

Gordy88 · Sep 9, 2014

Did that 6- 8 weeks ago,

Not OE, although i might go OE soon

Was about 40 quid from and independent, the one before that was an ebay special, lasted no time at all, the very plastic sheath had melted

Perhaps an OE is an idea

sierrafery · Sep 9, 2014

if you unplug the connector at the rocker cover and there is oil in it you deffinitely need a genuine injector loom cos it can cause various running/missfire issues... i dont think that those electric issues are connected, open separate thread for those and we'll speak there

Gordy88 · Sep 10, 2014

Will do

Thanks again

Gordy

Gordy88 · Sep 10, 2014

Had a look at the connector,

Its certainly not wet, but there is an oil like dryish residue there,

I'll fit a new OE harness later today, so at least that will rule that out

cheers

Turbo wastegate at 0%

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Active Member

Similar threads