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Turbo Technics VGT Turbo - control of.

Discussion in 'TD5' started by BenKenobi, Oct 12, 2012.

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  1. BenKenobi

    BenKenobi New Member

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    Any one here have a Turbo Technics VGT turbo fitted?

    I have such an animal but no details of how the actuator needs to be plumbed, can't use the waste gate solenoid, can't use boost pressure itself - leastways not alone since this could result in surging.

    If you have one (or if you know how) I need to know how the actuator and vane position is managed.
     
  2. sabredylan

    sabredylan New Member

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    The actuator on the VNT controls the vanes in the turbo.ie boost pressure changes vane angle Connect the old wastegate pipe from the intercooler pipe to the actuator of the new turbo. Get yourself a boost box, wire that in so you don't go into limp if boost is a little high and you're good to go. Basically you bypass the modulator, but leave modulator plugged in.

    You can set the boost by adjusting the the stop on the turbo if you really want too, by using a boost gauge. The above method, however, is what most use.

    There are two versions of the Turbo technics VNT, which offer two power levels. I think its 160hp and 180hp. You can still use the turbo on a standard setup but a remap will exploit the better flow available.
     
  3. BenKenobi

    BenKenobi New Member

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    Pretty much exactly what I have done, I was concerned that using it's own boost as a limiter could cause surging.

    I am told by T Technics that the boost is set by the spring in the actuator which needs a positive pressure to overcome, the stop is there only to set the 'start' point on the vanes and shouldn't normally be touched.

    Mine is the 180bhp version (S208) allied to an Allard 'BIG' intercooler, remapped by Dynachip, boost box by TD5Alive, de-EGR also Allard, Silicon Boost hoses and stainless decat pipe. Exhaust manifold has been 'refaced' and an exhaust gas temperature probe fitted, I have used Wurth studs in the head but haven't used the brass nuts - differential expansion reasons. Am also employing a MAF bypass since the standard MAF can't handle the air volumes the turbo pulls.

    Still getting the bugs out of the system though - I have an overpressure issue on overrun (engine braking) which is something you use a lot when taking heavy trailers down hills. I am also probably on the boundary of what the clutch can handle so I don't drive it like a race car. It was built for low down torque not outright BHP don't care much what happens after 3000 rpm I seldom go there.
     
  4. sabredylan

    sabredylan New Member

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  5. BenKenobi

    BenKenobi New Member

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    It seems like the MAF in it's standard form cannot handle the air velocities / volume on the higher boosts - clearly more boost = more air so what IRB say is very plausible and likely true. I think the current setup is capable of passing 2 bar so that is a lot of air.

    A beast - oh yes, very hard not to drive it as such too but I don't want to break anything - enough torque to make the ACE play catch up :D .

    Spent some coin - I'll say and that's just part of it - aux belt, water pump, belt tensioner, oil seals, steering box, Clarion 501e navigation system, 5 brand spanking Grabber AT 255/55x18, new condenser radiator and dryer, enough oil to drown in ....

    I'll look into the IRB box, I'm not really getting any issues like they describe and no faults logged - yet anyway.
     
  6. saxosportsaxo

    saxosportsaxo Member

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    Sorry to pull up an old thread but could I please have more info on Boost adjustment. I see the stop that the arm attached to the actuator sits on, which way is this adjusted?
    thanks
     
  7. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    beter unplug the MAF then and drive it so rather than bypassing it especially if it's Eu3 engine
     
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