Disco 3 (LR3) turbo actuator arm

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gstuart

D3 Grandad
Full Member
Posts
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Location
Kent
realised mine is sticking , also found a good video online

wished to share it so it may be handy for someone else



got a new set of silicone hoses i bought a while back and think it would be a good idea to fit them at the same time

can see also how tight the turbo is, this is one thing i don't like about the D3 , where components are hard to get to

did get a software update that now moves the actuator arm when the ign is turned on and off

but mine must still be sticking as it will occasionally go into limp mode

will just take the landy off the road for a week or so and slowly plod through it , as there's no rush , lol
 
I find it very useful having a grandson with little hands to get into daft places - but..... that really is tight in there :eek:

You'll need some patience too :)

Good luck :cool:
 
I find it very useful having a grandson with little hands to get into daft places - but..... that really is tight in there :eek:

You'll need some patience too :)

Good luck :cool:

thks :), will need it

sounds like a plan, will have to start training my grandson the art of confined mechanics , lol

got plenty of patience and if i'm honest not bothered how long it takes

could do a little bit each day

did also get some stainless steel jubilee clamps, the T bolt ones, seeing it's in a confined space

wonder if it's worth getting a tin of GT- 85 for the actuator arm

land rover now sell the actuator seperate to the turbo, but think it has to come out , can get it out without removing the body but believe it's a pig
 
Always worth having plenty of GT-85 - it is a land rover after all !! :D - oh yeah, and some more copper grease to stop stuff seizing up when you've fought to get it loose :mad::mad::mad::rolleyes:
 
Always worth having plenty of GT-85 - it is a land rover after all !! :D - oh yeah, and some more copper grease to stop stuff seizing up when you've fought to get it loose :mad::mad::mad::rolleyes:

will have to get myself some gt-85

got a tin of coppaslip , also some plus gas but believe the gt-85 is the one to apply

know it's a pig to get to and also difficult in seeing what ur doing

even worse if it's LHD as you've got the steering column right in the way ,
 
Problem with any sticking turbo linkage is no matter what lube you use it wont last due to the heat, especially as its a vgt and the bits that are most likely sticking are inside the turbo.
Soooo get googling/youtube and search for Mr Muscle turbo repair, very popular repair on the VAG motors as its a big problem on them.

I really do think that lots of the problem with modern diesels is people try and get max mpg so drive like miss daisy whereas what they really need is a daily thrashing, with the 200/300/td5 you cant help but thrash them otherwise you dont get anywhere! whereas the tdv6 engines actually have sensible power, 190 for the 2.7 right up to 255 bhp for the late 3.0 versions compared to the td5 136 and the tdi 110 bhp.
 
Problem with any sticking turbo linkage is no matter what lube you use it wont last due to the heat, especially as its a vgt and the bits that are most likely sticking are inside the turbo.
Soooo get googling/youtube and search for Mr Muscle turbo repair, very popular repair on the VAG motors as its a big problem on them.

I really do think that lots of the problem with modern diesels is people try and get max mpg so drive like miss daisy whereas what they really need is a daily thrashing, with the 200/300/td5 you cant help but thrash them otherwise you dont get anywhere! whereas the tdv6 engines actually have sensible power, 190 for the 2.7 right up to 255 bhp for the late 3.0 versions compared to the td5 136 and the tdi 110 bhp.

many thks, appreciate the advice and will indeed check that out

i am indeed fearful that the turbo is at fault

have got the software update that motors the actuator arm open and closed when the ign is turned on and off

if the turbo does req replacing that could be a deal breaker for me, as i believe they are well over a grand to replace

but won't worry about that at the moment , until i check the actuator arm and can also physically see if it moves or not

can hear the actuator but then a click, not sure if the arm has come off but that's just an assumption

got new intercooler silicone hoses so when i start opening up the access will give me a better idea

have indeed given it an italian tune up, alas will go into limp mode around 2,500 revs

will read up about this turbo repair , bless u for that
 
plus just found this video ref the turbo and where the actuator arm had come off , causing it to stick, might be really lucky

know u can buy the actuator arm kit seperate

 
@lynall , may i pick ur brains plse

see what u mean ref the mr muscle cleaner

is it easier that when u remove the intercooler hose off the end of the turbo to spray the mr muscle in there plse

is mine a have a variable vain turbo and where the fins choke up with carbon, the actuator moves the vain ????

intercooler hoses will have to come off anyway

thks again mate for the lead
 
@lynall , may i pick ur brains plse

see what u mean ref the mr muscle cleaner

is it easier that when u remove the intercooler hose off the end of the turbo to spray the mr muscle in there plse

is mine a have a variable vain turbo and where the fins choke up with carbon, the actuator moves the vain ????

intercooler hoses will have to come off anyway

thks again mate for the lead


No the moveable vanes are in the exhaust side of the turbo hence the reason they carbon up, sadly not the clean side, just watched a video where a guy drilled and tapped his Mondeo turbo for the mr muscle probe to get to the vanes, actually seems like a good idea.

If its going into limp at 2500 rpm thats almost certainly an overboost situation and that is exactly what happens to the VAG motors, might be worth monitoring boost with the IID and getting some numbers?

I would do everything and anything before trying to replace the turbo as it looks an utter arse!

Theres probably some good vids on youtube explaining how a vgt works as they are quite clever and surprisingly tough considering the enviroment they have to operate in.
 
No the moveable vanes are in the exhaust side of the turbo hence the reason they carbon up, sadly not the clean side, just watched a video where a guy drilled and tapped his Mondeo turbo for the mr muscle probe to get to the vanes, actually seems like a good idea.

If its going into limp at 2500 rpm thats almost certainly an overboost situation and that is exactly what happens to the VAG motors, might be worth monitoring boost with the IID and getting some numbers?

I would do everything and anything before trying to replace the turbo as it looks an utter arse!

Theres probably some good vids on youtube explaining how a vgt works as they are quite clever and surprisingly tough considering the enviroment they have to operate in.

thks, will have a read so i can better understand them along with how i may be able to clean the turbo out

looking at pics and how the pipes attach , i think the air inlet from the air filter goes to the front of the turbo, then intercooler hose on top of the turbo

getting there but know it's s complicated engine

these are the faults i got after plugging in the iid

P0234-00 turbo overboost
P132B -00 turbo boost control A performance
P0046-00 turbo boost control solonoid - circuit range performance

after i reset the faults they all disappear

maybe the actuator arm has come off or sticking
split intercooler hose

but know that's assumption and won't know till i can physically have a look

quite agree with u i would try everything in the book to avoid having to replace a turbo

will just take it bit by bit, alas i bought this as a project and once i resolve the turbo issue and dropping front strut it will then be onto basic service items,

getting there , slowly , lol

appreciate the advice once again
 
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