Trouble starting

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Pigsy13

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36
Location
Liphook
Hi. I have a 1988 defender 2.5 n/a diesel Lanny. I have had some trouble with the battery, but I put it on Charge and then is alright. I charged it a couple of days ago. But this morning it had real problems starting. It would just turn over but after 2 mins trying and foot on the gas it did start. It also did the same when I left work tonight. When I got home I turned it of and on again three or four times. And it started on the button. Could it be a new battery needed, alternor, or even pjlugs. Any help would be most appreciated.
Many
 
If it was ok and now it's not then something is wrong. Why not just check the alternator output to eliminate it from your enquiries?

If I understood your post, it was bad when cold but ok when hot. So that could be plugs (or battery). It's quite easy to take the plugs out and put them accross a battery to check they work. (But the tip gets red hot so don't put it anywhere sensitive)

Battery would be my guess as winter puts a strain on them.
 
If it was ok and now it's not then something is wrong. Why not just check the alternator output to eliminate it from your enquiries?

If I understood your post, it was bad when cold but ok when hot. So that could be plugs (or battery). It's quite easy to take the plugs out and put them accross a battery to check they work. (But the tip gets red hot so don't put it anywhere sensitive)

Battery would be my guess as winter puts a strain on them.
Thanks for the advice. I need to get hold of a volt metre to check alternator.
 
2.5N/A should not need foot on gas pump that is fitted gives extra fuel by design when starting.
When you have reharged your battery connect one lead then then touch your battery with other lead to see if any spark could be something draining .
Check earths to engine and connections on starter motor , had problems with mine for awhile turned out resistance / volt drop across ignition switch was not allowing enough current to flow through starter solenoid to close the motor contacts properly.
If you put all your electrics on with engine running do the lights dim ? if not your alternator looks to be ok when running a diode fault in the alternator can drain your battery over time hencethe spark check when connecting batt lead.
 
In this weather I give it at least 20 good patient seconds of glow before starting. As above voltmeter on battery both before start and when running. I get about 12.1-12.2v on the battery and about 13.5-14.5v when running.
 
In this weather I give it at least 20 good patient seconds of glow before starting. As above voltmeter on battery both before start and when running. I get about 12.1-12.2v on the battery and about 13.5-14.5v when running.
Ok. Have ordered a voltmeter and will try and check at the weekend. Thank you for your advice.
 
I have got my volt metre, but still not the wiser. Charged the battery read 12.6v.
Managed to get truck started after turning it over for a long time. One running battery went to 14.24v so I guess it's not the alternator. Put lights on dropped to 14.11v put main beam read 14.06v. When I added the fan on it went down to 12.92v last went on stero dropped again to 12.84v.
I also got a different battery from my camper van. Still had problems starting so I don't think it's the battery.
I put my meter on ohms. Set it on 200.
When I made a connection to all glow pugs they read 0.10 (they were still in the engine)
My guess is still plugs, but I think I will have to take them out to test. The reason I think it's plugs is because once it's stated I went for a drive for half hour. When I stopped and started after that it starts fine.
Any more wisdom would be most appropriate as I am a beginner with engines.
 

  1. I have got my volt metre, but still not the wiser. Charged the battery read 12.6v.
    Managed to get truck started after turning it over for a long time. One running battery went to 14.24v so I guess it's not the alternator. Put lights on dropped to 14.11v put main beam read 14.06v. When I added the fan on it went down to 12.92v last went on stero dropped again to 12.84v.
    I also got a different battery from my camper van. Still had problems starting so I don't think it's the battery.
    I put my meter on ohms. Set it on 200.
    When I made a connection to all glow pugs they read 0.10 (they were still in the engine)
    My guess is still plugs, but I think I will have to take them out to test. The reason I think it's plugs is because once it's stated I went for a drive for half hour. When I stopped and started after that it starts fine.
    Any more wisdom would be most appropriate as I am a beginner with engines.
 

  1. I have got my volt metre, but still not the wiser. Charged the battery read 12.6v.
    Managed to get truck started after turning it over for a long time. One running battery went to 14.24v so I guess it's not the alternator. Put lights on dropped to 14.11v put main beam read 14.06v. When I added the fan on it went down to 12.92v last went on stero dropped again to 12.84v.
    I also got a different battery from my camper van. Still had problems starting so I don't think it's the battery.
    I put my meter on ohms. Set it on 200.
    When I made a connection to all glow pugs they read 0.10 (they were still in the engine)
    My guess is still plugs, but I think I will have to take them out to test. The reason I think it's plugs is because once it's stated I went for a drive for half hour. When I stopped and started after that it starts fine.
    Any more wisdom would be most appropriate as I am a beginner with engines.

Glow plugs should run less than 12 volts, that type doesnt like full 12v. Try a new set of plugs if there is current to them, they are cheap, and easy to change.

I still think a new battery is the most likely solution.

Have you checked the tappets and other service items, ie fuel and air filters, and does the lift pump give fuel?
 
Thank you for your advice.

I will try and change the plugs at the weekend.
Regarding battery. I did put another battery that I no is good from my mazda bongo camper van. (It may not be the exact type but I'm think it will do)?
Haven't checked the tappers. As I said I'm not much of a mechanic, but I am learning)
Are the tappers easy to check.
How do you check the lift pump gives fuel.
Sorry again but very new to working on engines.

It's just strange that it has real problems starting, but once wormed up. It starts up on the button.

Thanks again for all your advice.
 
Disconnect the wiring from the plugs , put your voltmeter on a 12V source and each glow plug in turn you should get a reading the same as your battery voltage ones with no voltage will be open circuit ie U/S.
If all get a voltage connect your meter to earth and input wire for glowplug operate ignition switch in glow position and make sure you have 12V showing.
 
Thank you for your advice.

I will try and change the plugs at the weekend.
Regarding battery. I did put another battery that I no is good from my mazda bongo camper van. (It may not be the exact type but I'm think it will do)?
Haven't checked the tappers. As I said I'm not much of a mechanic, but I am learning)
Are the tappers easy to check.
How do you check the lift pump gives fuel.
Sorry again but very new to working on engines.

It's just strange that it has real problems starting, but once wormed up. It starts up on the button.

Thanks again for all your advice.

Tappets, with a T! Google search, there will be youtube vids etc of how to set. Use the rule of 9.

If it runs fine when warm, filters etc are probably ok.
It is normal for old diesels to run well when hot, even if a bit old and worn. But cold starting is much more difficult, especailly in very low temperatures.
Cranking speed is often a factor, an old battery doesnt give much juice on a cold day, a landrover will tend to take more starting than a Mazda.
Like he says^^^^^^^^, make sure the glowplugs are working. That sort of engine likes preheat,and a good spin over.
 
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