Transfer box sump gasket

Even after being rebuilt, the gasket on my transfer box sump has always leaked a bit.

I was planning on taking it off and replacing the paper gasket with a bead of instant gasket, has anyone had any success with this method?

It seems like it would also be better to replace the threaded studs and nuts with bolts. The oil seems to flow out down the studs.

If I had unlimited time, I would consider making up a cover from much thicker aluminium or steel plate. I don't see how you can get a very good seal with how thin the factory tin cover is.

Rocky mountain do a heavy duty aluminium cover
http://rockymountainspares.co.uk/product/transfer-case-sump-cover/
The studs are coarse thread into the alloy and fine thread on the nuts so that you can squeeze it up gently a new gasket with some sealer on both sides will sort it out.

I've always found there's ways out for the oil past the gaskets on a landy. 0ld age, abuse and average precision engineering all contribute. A good smear of blue hylomar on both sides of gaskets has always been my solution.

....and if studs go right through castings, try some threadlock on the stud - after thorough degreasing.

Thanks for the replies.

The drips seem to be coming off the ends of the studs, so they may have been put in without any threadlock.

I would think that degreasing the holes would be difficult as left-over oil will run down through the holes quicker than it can be cleaned out.

Threadlock wont stop it leaking past the bolt heads as you describe, use a bead of RTV sealant.

Its because the boxes are alloy and alloy expanse when hot allowing oil to leak out of the joints then as they cool down the joints close up and more or less stop leaking, if it still leaks as bad when cold then its probably a failed seal / gasket but you normally find when cold the joints don't leak, or that's the idea anyway

Might a bit of PTFE ape work on the threaded rod?