Torx size

norseman · Sep 23, 2020

Hi folks, can anyone tell me what Torx(?) size bit I require to fit the two bolts holding the front of the upper window frame on my '87 RRC? (I know the single one at the back is the good 'ole half inch AF)
I borrowed a T30 but found that slightly too small, so I'm assuming T40?
Also, are the bolts securing the hinges to the front door the same size by any chance?

Sorry to appear thick, but my knowledge gained over the decades ends with AF or metric nuts/bolts

kermit_rr · Sep 23, 2020

i dont know the answer, but while my torx set has a t30 and t40 set, the size difference is quite obvious.
you can get a t35
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T35-TORX...-8mm-5-16-hex-Heavy-Duty-Quality/164278713208

norseman · Sep 24, 2020

Thanks for that info.
Knowing diddly-squat about modern day fixings I looked at a number of Torx sets on the 'bay & they all seem to go from 30 to 40, hence my ordering of a 40.
The tool should be here tomorrow, if it turns out to be too large I'll follow your advice & order a 35. Trust LR to use an odd size(?)

Torx bolts at the front of the frame & 1/2 inch AF at the other end

After decades of LR ownership I should be used to these idiosyncrasies.

pwood999 · Sep 25, 2020

Even the parts catalogues don't help. They say "screw-torx-countersunk, serviced as part of kit" which doesn't help much !!

norseman · Sep 25, 2020

T40 Torx bit arrived today, it fits the bolt heads of both the window frame & door hinges … result

Mark Piercy · Sep 25, 2020

Get out there and fix it

norseman · Sep 28, 2020

Mark Piercy said:
Get out there and fix it

Window frame fittings undid without the need for releasing agent, but the tiny available frame movement resulted in the lecky window not fully closing.
Looks like plan B, which is hinge bolt adjustment to move the whole door slightly closer to the frame.

norseman · Oct 21, 2020

Further to my recent posts 'Torx size' has anyone ever tried adjusting the door fitment on a four-door Classic?
I have the official LR w/s manual but I'm really seeking first-hand experience of this (seemingly

) straight forward task. Some pointers are obvious, such as marking the current position of the hinges before moving the door, but any other tips on offer guys?

Mark Piercy · Oct 21, 2020

If they are marked up with a fine scribe and not loosened to much its reasonably easy.
You can also, depending how you get into the hinges can use cardboard to hold and set the doors. Unless they have to be open to be adjusted, then it's adjust and compare the result. Just mark the hinges in their original positions well.

Ratae · Oct 21, 2020

Mine's the older exposed hinge type. Uses slotted head bolts not the torx.
Been a while since I've had the door (driver's door) off so my memory might be a bit rusty.
Marking hinge & striker positions is a very good idea!
Check the hinges for wear by just opening the door & trying to lift its rear end. Mine were well worn - lower one more than the upper - & the bottom of the door was catching. Replacing the hinges solved the problem.
Removing/fitting the shims will raise/lower the door if the hinges are good.
The doors are heavier than you think so help is a good idea.
I found that there was some corrosion in the A pillar where the bolts go through which I welded - needed the wing off as well. There are anti-crush tubes in the A pillar that the bolts go through so check those are still in place.

norseman · Oct 21, 2020

I much appreciate the advice from both of you.
(Mark) the door will have to be wide open the access the Torx's.
I suppose a simpler answer would be to add another layer to the existing (original) door seal, using self-adhesive rubber seal. Always assuming that process doesn't make door adjustment necessary because the mod. proves too successful

Mark Piercy · Oct 22, 2020

norseman said:
I much appreciate the advice from both of you.
(Mark) the door will have to be wide open the access the Torx's.
I suppose a simpler answer would be to add another layer to the existing (original) door seal, using self-adhesive rubber seal. Always assuming that process doesn't make door adjustment necessary because the mod. proves too successful

Are the hinges really worn?

tomcat59alan · Oct 22, 2020

Mark Piercy said:
Are the hinges really worn?

Bought back memories ,on most of my Classics I had to drill and repin the hindges,the two door version doors were soo heavy. Open and support the door and change hinges one at a time after marking their positions.

Ratae · Oct 23, 2020

The original seals on mine were well worn, squashed & damaged.
Replaced them with non material covered universal type from ebay.

Torx size

norseman

Well-Known Member

kermit_rr

Very

norseman

Well-Known Member

pwood999

Well-Known Member

norseman

Well-Known Member

Mark Piercy

Well fumbled member....

norseman

Well-Known Member

norseman

Well-Known Member

Mark Piercy

Well fumbled member....

Ratae

Well-Known Member

norseman

Well-Known Member

Mark Piercy

Well fumbled member....

tomcat59alan

Well-Known Member

Ratae

Well-Known Member

Similar threads