P38A Timing chains and sprockets install - what else is required?

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Mukiwa

Well-Known Member
Posts
472
Location
Winsford, Cheshire, near Oulton Park
Hi all,

I have the rave printouts with me and rave on my pc. I have purchased this TC0930FK full timing chain kit from Advance factors.
I'm trying to ascertain what else I need as I've read some can do this without removing the head and sump and RAVE says you need to remove / undo both. The RAVE I have has the "see this section" but the hyperlinks don't work, so as it's my first time I'd like to get all the bits together first rather than get caught with my pants down on a Saturday / Sunday with the ensuing 3 day delivery wait.....

Your help as always is appreciated :D

I have:-
full timing tools
TC0930FK full timing chain kit

Extras?
Front cover gasket
crank oil seal

1999 DSE
 
Front cover gasket is required. Use only outer section DO NOT remove oil pump. Seal would be good. You will need to slightly drop front of sump. All bolts securing front cover to engine and sump. The front cover is located by two dowels in it's lower sides. Gently and progressively ease the front cover off. When it clears the dowels it will come off. Use Hylomar on all joins for reassembly. Pay extra attention to joint to head. Remember to torque and angle tighten crank bolt correctly, the oil pump is driven by being nipped between crank pulley and crank. If not tightened properly you will lose drive to oil pump. A new cam bolt would help crank bolt can be reused. Each flat on crank bolt is 60 degrees so angle tightening of that can be done from marks after initial torquing. You need a Torx type socket for cam bolt and an angle gauge.
 
Last edited:
Only the a/c compressor to remove now, my forearm is too big for the gap, SWMBO will be required with her lady arms. It took me around an hour to finally find that "second" bolt that holds the alternator on. Lovely picture in RAVE, shame it doesn't say "swivel the alternator forwards (sideways) and then you will see the magic bolt".
On a plus note I've found loose bolts on the water pump (they were torqued correctly by me) and loose bolts on other bits. The dreaded diesel vibes must be at play, threadlock will be used this time.

Slow progress as I'm working away Sun - Fri. I've seen pictures of a sling to remove the cylinder head, do you definately need a special tool to lift it off and lower it back on again?
I might as well do the head gasket while I'm at the chain & sprockets stage.
 
Or I may just check the timing chains are correct. What is the magic way of removing the front cover without removing the head? I'm assuming the sump bolts still have to be removed. I'll have a closer look this afternoon. Can't do much more as I need to get back on the road south again.
 
Mukiwa said:
Or I may just check the timing chains are correct. What is the magic way of removing the front cover without removing the head? I'm assuming the sump bolts still have to be removed. I'll have a closer look this afternoon. Can't do much more as I need to get back on the road south again.
Click to expand...

I take it you have never read post #2? It is not a five minute job.
 
Mukiwa said:
Only the a/c compressor to remove now, my forearm is too big for the gap, SWMBO will be required with her lady arms. It took me around an hour to finally find that "second" bolt that holds the alternator on. Lovely picture in RAVE, shame it doesn't say "swivel the alternator forwards (sideways) and then you will see the magic bolt".
On a plus note I've found loose bolts on the water pump (they were torqued correctly by me) and loose bolts on other bits. The dreaded diesel vibes must be at play, threadlock will be used this time.

Slow progress as I'm working away Sun - Fri. I've seen pictures of a sling to remove the cylinder head, do you definately need a special tool to lift it off and lower it back on again?
I might as well do the head gasket while I'm at the chain & sprockets stage.
Click to expand...
If you're that far into it doing the chains then the cylinder head is not that far behind. A new head gasket would be peace of mind for a job well done. No need for a hoist to lift the head, once both manifolds are off it's an easy lift. But you will need:
Inlet and outlet gaskets.
Head bolts
Head gasket
Locating dowels (2 if one gets damaged, they are only brass.)
Cam cover gasket.
But the trick is where to stop, valve oil seals, lapping valves etc..?
Does the chain kit come with chain guides?. I haven't seen a full kit but they do wear and depending on the engine mileage can (rarely) break up, (messy.!) Worth getting if not.
Oh.. and also two heater matrix o rings. Because if the two heater pipes going into the bulkhead are even breathed upon, they will give up the seal on the matrix behind the dash..(ask me..)
 
Bagshot said:
If you're that far into it doing the chains then the cylinder head is not that far behind. A new head gasket would be peace of mind for a job well done. No need for a hoist to lift the head, once both manifolds are off it's an easy lift. But you will need:
Inlet and outlet gaskets.
Head bolts
Head gasket
Locating dowels (2 if one gets damaged, they are only brass.)
Cam cover gasket.
But the trick is where to stop, valve oil seals, lapping valves etc..?
Does the chain kit come with chain guides?. I haven't seen a full kit but they do wear and depending on the engine mileage can (rarely) break up, (messy.!) Worth getting if not.
Oh.. and also two heater matrix o rings. Because if the two heater pipes going into the bulkhead are even breathed upon, they will give up the seal on the matrix behind the dash..(ask me..)
Click to expand...

Mine came with the chain guides yes. Well I'm not doing the valves as well, I want the car back on the road this year hahahaha. Once I get a spare engine I'll do all that in slow time ready for the day of a swap over with a fully rebuilt engine (that's my plan anyway....):p
 
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