timing chain replacement

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renorenoreno

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hi guys im running a 2.25 diesel 2a.have finally decided to solve the white smoke while driving ( been there since i bought the truck).i have concluded that my timing is off since im not leaking any coolant/lubricants.took my injectors to service last week(135ATM).smoking abit lesser now but i would like to cure it completely. i have read that the timing chain could do a replacement. my fuel pump has already been turned alll the way clockwise.thanks!
 
renorenoreno said:
hi guys im running a 2.25 diesel 2a.have finally decided to solve the white smoke while driving ( been there since i bought the truck).i have concluded that my timing is off since im not leaking any coolant/lubricants.took my injectors to service last week(135ATM).smoking abit lesser now but i would like to cure it completely. i have read that the timing chain could do a replacement. my fuel pump has already been turned alll the way clockwise.thanks!
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Hi, I am thinking the same solution. How did you get on and did it work?

Best wishes

Bob
 
Bob Pate said:
Hi, I am thinking the same solution. How did you get on and did it work?

Best wishes

Bob
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It can only make it better...................:D. Just make sure you use a good one. The cheaper ones tend to stretch a little too fast. Perfectly doable on the drive but read up on possible problems and how to avoid them before you start.
 
Bobsticle said:
It can only make it better...................:D. Just make sure you use a good one. The cheaper ones tend to stretch a little too fast. Perfectly doable on the drive but read up on possible problems and how to avoid them before you start.
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Thanks for the reply. I know I have to advance the timing to get rid of my white smoke problem but I am at the end of the slot on my CV pump. I am assuming that this means my timing chain has stretched and needs to be replaced. Is that how you would see it? Bob
 
Can be................. daft answer I know but no good trying other things until you know the chain side of things is bang on.
 
Although timing chains wear (like any other mechanical component) it might be worthwhile just following the instructions in the green book to see if the timing is indeed "out" before you buy new chains and cogs.

Essentially you need to remove the front timing chain cover (if you want to do it properly) and make marks on the camshaft timing cog and compare that with the "EP" (means Exhaust Peak) mark on the flywheel. The marks on the camshaft timing cog are made to try and find the highest point on the camshaft lobe - you need to remove the valve clearance on the exhaust valve for #1 cylinder and measure the position of the lobe on two sides close to the peak with a clock gauge / DTI.

I've played about with this quite a bit with this (mainly out of boredom) and have found that it is best to make checks with the timing chain fitted - once the engine has been cranked over several times. There is a bit of slack in the system. If for example you turn one way and then try to turn the crank the other way you can get confusing results. I have also found that it is easy to fit a new chain and think you've got it in the correct position only to find after cranking through 720 degrees that it is indeed (yet again) a bit off...
 
That's really helpful but I think I have a bigger problem. I was removing the grill and rad so that I could get to the chain cover. I had to remove the starting handle dog but I only have a large adjustable spanner which is about 13 inches long. I fitted the spanner and decided to turn the engine over just to see. It turned so easily, I could fell a little compression but not much. I don't have any way of test the compression but I think this clearly indicates I have other problems. Comments please .......I am a virgin when it comes to Diesel engines!!!. I do have a copy of the green book.

Best wishes

Bob
Stretch said:
Although timing chains wear (like any other mechanical component) it might be worthwhile just following the instructions in the green book to see if the timing is indeed "out" before you buy new chains and cogs.

Essentially you need to remove the front timing chain cover (if you want to do it properly) and make marks on the camshaft timing cog and compare that with the "EP" (means Exhaust Peak) mark on the flywheel. The marks on the camshaft timing cog are made to try and find the highest point on the camshaft lobe - you need to remove the valve clearance on the exhaust valve for #1 cylinder and measure the position of the lobe on two sides close to the peak with a clock gauge / DTI.

I've played about with this quite a bit with this (mainly out of boredom) and have found that it is best to make checks with the timing chain fitted - once the engine has been cranked over several times. There is a bit of slack in the system. If for example you turn one way and then try to turn the crank the other way you can get confusing results. I have also found that it is easy to fit a new chain and think you've got it in the correct position only to find after cranking through 720 degrees that it is indeed (yet again) a bit off...
Click to expand...
bigger
 
Bobsticle said:
I can turn my 2.5 over with the fan. Dont think its a massive issue.
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I must try that, I'm flipping fed up with getting on my hands and knees to locate the starting handle. You'd think there would be something to guide it in. My points went out of adjustment recently on a really busy, fast road. It was a nightmare trying to push the thing in gear to line up the dizzy cam lobe. Seeing as diesels are higher compression than petrols, I should be able to turn it via the fan blades.

Col
 
Bob Pate said:
That's really helpful but I think I have a bigger problem. I was removing the grill and rad so that I could get to the chain cover. I had to remove the starting handle dog but I only have a large adjustable spanner which is about 13 inches long. I fitted the spanner and decided to turn the engine over just to see. It turned so easily, I could fell a little compression but not much. I don't have any way of test the compression but I think this clearly indicates I have other problems. Comments please .......I am a virgin when it comes to Diesel engines!!!. I do have a copy of the green book.

Best wishes

Bob

bigger
Click to expand...
Bigger? Bigger problem?

It is quite possible that your engine isn't as healthy as it was when it left the factory - but - don't forget - this is a compression ignition engine that runs! There is enough compression for combustion. That's a good thing (!)

If you really want to find a problem with it then I'm sure you will be successful. If I were you I wouldn't start imagining things.

I urge you to do the simpler things first - see if you can make some improvements that doesn't include a full strip down. If you do want to do a compression test (I wouldn't if were you) a compression tester isn't all that bank breaking to buy these days (make sure you get a diesel version though)
 
Stretch said:
Bigger? Bigger problem?
That's really sound advice. My problem is that I have always worked on petrol engines and its knowing where to start. So the engine starts and runs ok, it puts the sun out but it runs. It was black smoke but I turned the CV injector pump a little anti clockwise and its now grey smoke but still lots of it. My gut feeling is a timing issue but moving the pump more does not improve things plus the pump is at the end of it's allowed travel. This started me looking at perhaps the timing chain being worn and so making the timing out more than moving the pump can correct. A friend let me have a set of recon injectors. They did not improve anything. My understanding is the grey smoke is unburnt fuel which bring me again back to timing. Stretch, am I making things more complicated than they really are or am I missing something really simple??????

Best wishes

Bob


If you really want to find a problem with it then I'm sure you will be successful. If I were you I wouldn't start imagining things.

I urge you to do the simpler things first - see if you can make some improvements that doesn't include a full strip down. If you do want to do a compression test (I wouldn't if were you) a compression tester isn't all that bank breaking to buy these days (make sure you get a diesel version though)
Click to expand...
 
Bob Pate said:
Sorry, I appear to have mixed up or communications.

Bob
Click to expand...
I see what's happened - you've posted within the [ ] brackets

#######

I'm not an expert with these engines - I can only advise on the information I have seen and read. The timing chain set up seems to be a potential problem area. There are reports of lots of slack that makes it difficult to get right.

If you look through the green book you will see a whole section on fitting the chain - I reckon that's a good place to start. Measure the EP at the valve and compare with the marking on the flywheel. Then check that the pump cogs are in the correct position.

On the whole I'd avoid the "grey smoke" / "black smoke" analysis at this stage - I've seen many a thread (on Mercedes diesel engine forums) where people get confused about smoke colour and end up making poor assumptions. Stick with the objective measurements at this stage. Measure things - make sure things are set up correctly before you start tweaking and looking at the subjective element (!)
 
Good advice. If it works I will buy you a pint or two or you can have some of my honey (my bees honey actually)!!!!!!!

Very best wishes

Bob
 
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