Disco 3 (LR3) Timing chain rattle TDV6

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guineafowl21

Well-Known Member
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Location
Inverness
Recently bought an 07 Disco 3 TDV6 which seems to have had everything done - belts, oil pump...

When it starts up there is a slight rattle/ticking from somewhere near the back of the engine. I’m told there’s a timing chain in there that has a hydraulic tensioner that needs to come up to pressure.

1. Is the noise normal or is there excessive wear?
2. Has anyone done the job?
 
Its certainly not unusual, mine has done it from the drivers side rear for the last 4 years, passenger side chain is at the front, its quite an invloved repair.
Mine goes after a second maybe two also sometimes does it when hot but not always.
I have asked other D3 owners where I work if theirs does it and theyve always said no, but I think if you aint mechanically minded and the noise goes so quick they might not have noticed.

The tensioner has an internal spring that is meant to hold the tension until the oil pressure builds, Im guessing the spring either gets weak or breaks.
 
It's very common on the TDV6. The same engine in PSA vehicles, also did it, even when new. It's a caused by slack in the timing chain, which takes a second too tension out. This gets slightly worse as the engine increases in mileage, but not by much.
 
Maybe start using a different sort of engine oil, this can make a difference with regards to oil pressure
 
Maybe start using a different sort of engine oil, this can make a difference with regards to oil pressure

Its not the oil pressure thats the problem, its when you switch off and there is no oil pressure and as the tensioner spring is broken/weak you have to wait for the pressure to build to take over from the spring.

Over the 4 years Ive had the car tried many makes of oil all 5/30 A1 to A5 as it is now and C3 still make the same noise, I know some people have been using 5/40 so might be worth some investigation?

Might be teaching you to suck eggs, but the ACEA numbers A3 to A5 and C1 to C5 bit is very important, A/B is basically anything pre cat/dpf/scr and C is anything with exhaust aftertreatment.
 
5w30 is like water, 5w40 is a tad thicker so definitely beneficial on and engine which has done more than 5k miles
 
5w30 is like water, 5w40 is a tad thicker so definitely beneficial on and engine which has done more than 5k miles

Some of the newer fords are running 0w20!

Cant be many D3 out there with less than 5k on the tacho:D
 
I’ve just bought the thing for the wife. Quite a lot of car for £3750, and very tidy. The PO said he’s done a service, but I think I’ll do another one, just in case, and because I always do servicing in July. I have a Haynes manual - often a bit crap, but one or two tricky jobs and it’s paid for itself. Wiring diagrams occasionally useful.

Oil and filters
Diffs top-up
T-box top-up
Auto box fluid change - I read something about an upgraded pan/filter - worth doing?

Very slight lumpiness on cold start. Short journeys - injectors, duff battery, ignore?
Low coolant warning despite coolant OK - change/clean sensor/check wiring?
FBH has been unplugged, as it “makes loads of smoke under the bonnet”. I like to have everything working. Strip and clean?

Worth getting some sort of diagnostic reader? Useful for auto box fluid temp, too.
 
I’ve just bought the thing for the wife. Quite a lot of car for £3750, and very tidy. The PO said he’s done a service, but I think I’ll do another one, just in case, and because I always do servicing in July. I have a Haynes manual - often a bit crap, but one or two tricky jobs and it’s paid for itself. Wiring diagrams occasionally useful.

Oil and filters, doddle job, fit filter into the engine housing first making 110 percent the tlittle tit on the new filter engages with the corresponding hole in the housing then fit the cap, do it the wrong way and crush the filter and scrap the engine.
Diffs top-up, hey are not like old motors ie fill to spill they take a specific amount of oil, front is summat silly like 0.65 litres! rear option is rear ediff which takes a different oil again.
T-box top-up, land rover specific oil due to the electronic clutch widget holds 1.5 litres, oil from landrovers, people have used other makes but as you are only ever going to change it once all the time you own the car why chance it?
Auto box fluid change - I read something about an upgraded pan/filter - worth doing? well worth some research, some just drain the oil and refill, others do a flush at the oil cooler, easy enough, and some pay for a machine to do a flush.
The metal pan is not really an upgrade it just means the filer is seperate and not a one piece filter/sump affair like the plastic one, which you have to break to get off or remove loads of parts which if you refit plastic one makes it big job, my advice would be to change the oil a couple of times and leave it alone, Mannol AG55 off of ebay


Very slight lumpiness on cold start. Short journeys - injectors, duff battery, ignore? need a diagnostic tool to see what the injetcor balance figures are Icarsoft 100 quid IID 400quid.
Low coolant warning despite coolant OK - change/clean sensor/check wiring?, float in tank sticking, new tank required.
FBH has been unplugged, as it “makes loads of smoke under the bonnet”. I like to have everything working. Strip and clean? possible strip and clean, but a good long run test might clear it out, bodge way is whilst running to spray some brake cleaner in the air intake for the fbh, have a fire ext handy!
It fires up on auto when external temp is under 7 degc so you wont see it running for a few more months yet, in the winter it pretty much runs all the time the engine is running.


Worth getting some sort of diagnostic reader? Useful for auto box fluid temp, too.
As said above Icarsoft is cheap and pretty good, reads all the systems and clears all arrors, but cannot reprogramme, IID can do everything and is excellent but is four times the price, Icarsoft 2nd hand market is real good so cheapest way is Icarsoft then if keeping car for any length of time get IID and sell Icarsoft, bet you wont even lose 20 quid
People wet their pants about oil being at a specefic temperature which Iirc is 35/40 degc basically warm to the touch.
 
@guineafowl21 , congrats on the purchase , Here are some links ref various servicing , ATF etc

Hope it’s useful

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tdv6-service-guides-plse-dont-post-threads-here-thks.319050/

Must admit still got to do my ATF oil change , will just do a drain and refill, personally never been keen on power flushing gearboxes, always worried of them pushing junk around into the narrow oil ways

Also I won’t bother with the filter pan, haven’t heard of one yet being dirty in the gearbox

Got 10 x litres of Mannol AG55 for the ZF 6hp , recommended by ZF

Don’t forget plenty here to always help as the D3 ownership member numbers are increasing on LZ
 
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Wish to also add, mine also rattles for 3-4 seconds on first start up , then goes away

I think sometimes it’s the hydraulic tappets that make the initial start up rattle sound, as the noise comes from drivers side front bank cyl

As mentioned , chains are located passenger side front , drivers side back

Engine pdf Info, page 16

http://media.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/11102/Engine Description.pdf

Passenger side cyl head

37761AA4-20BE-4437-9982-C5EC2D4633C1.png
BE4F693C-9C73-4A22-9335-E7450D4572AD.png
 
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As a side note, never realised or heard of piston cooling jets which are fitted on these TDV6 engines

6AFD16D1-62AF-4E96-A193-CAEEA1255D1C.png
 
As said above Icarsoft is cheap and pretty good, reads all the systems and clears all arrors, but cannot reprogramme, IID can do everything and is excellent but is four times the price, Icarsoft 2nd hand market is real good so cheapest way is Icarsoft then if keeping car for any length of time get IID and sell Icarsoft, bet you wont even lose 20 quid
People wet their pants about oil being at a specefic temperature which Iirc is 35/40 degc basically warm to the touch.

Hi mate

Still got to get round doing mine , bought 10 x litres of AG55

At least can monitor the temp via the iid live data, also got an infra red thermometer

Also wont do the adaptive reset at the same time of changing the oil, will wait for around 500 x miles after the ATF oil change , can then clear adaptions and add the updated software

How’s the California stop update going by the way please ,

Thks
 
Hi mate

Still got to get round doing mine , bought 10 x litres of AG55

At least can monitor the temp via the iid live data, also got an infra red thermometer

Also wont do the adaptive reset at the same time of changing the oil, will wait for around 500 x miles after the ATF oil change , can then clear adaptions and add the updated software

How’s the California stop update going by the way please ,

Thks

I just pumped out x amount, stuck back in the same amount then ran it warmish and checked level.

I think the idea is to do all the work then the reset.

California stop going well.
 
I just pumped out x amount, stuck back in the same amount then ran it warmish and checked level.

I think the idea is to do all the work then the reset.

California stop going well.

Many thks , I found the gearbox hose that goes into the intercooler at the front of engine was weeping, put 2 x new jubilee clips on it

alas won’t know how low it is until I drain and refill , indeed that’s what i also thought ref the adaption reset

That’s good to know ref the Cali stop

Thks again
 
Many thks , I found the gearbox hose that goes into the intercooler at the front of engine was weeping, put 2 x new jubilee clips on it

alas won’t know how low it is until I drain and refill , indeed that’s what i also thought ref the adaption reset

That’s good to know ref the Cali stop

Thks again


I think all the oil cooler hoses sweat a little especially the top one, its a pretty poor idea in this day and age using jubilee clips on an oil cooler flex hose from the factory.
I like jub clips form a mechs point ot view but recognise they have their wekanesses.
 
@guineafowl21 , congrats on the purchase , Here are some links ref various servicing , ATF etc

Hope it’s useful

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/tdv6-service-guides-plse-dont-post-threads-here-thks.319050/

Must admit still got to do my ATF oil change , will just do a drain and refill, personally never been keen on power flushing gearboxes, always worried of them pushing junk around into the narrow oil ways

Also I won’t bother with the filter pan, haven’t heard of one yet being dirty in the gearbox

Got 10 x litres of Mannol AG55 for the ZF 6hp , recommended by ZF

Don’t forget plenty here to always help as the D3 ownership member numbers are increasing on LZ

Thanks. I did have a look through that thread before going down to see it.
 
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