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The best purging procedure?

Discussion in 'TD5' started by sierrafery, Mar 10, 2011.

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  1. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    Hi all, i'd like to discuss here about the two purging procedures for the Td5's fueling system.
    1. Formal variant(short one)>> ignition on 3 min. then full throttle max 30 sec. if no joy ignition off for 15sec then repeat.
    2. lnvented variant >> same as first at the beginning but instead ignition off for 15sec depress throttle 5-6 times.

    here is the explanation of mr. CharlesY for variant 2:
    it's logical and working too BUT i have some questions before i reveal my fears about using this method(coz i used just nr.1 untill now):

    1. After the 5 pedals doesnt it come some warning on board?

    2. Presuming somebody used this method, after some time when for some reason it was necessary to plug in a tester, arent there fault codes logged?

    Depending on the answers i'll revel my theory coz it might be wrong and i dont want to look stupid(even if i am:eek:)
     
  2. Clanforbes

    Clanforbes New Member

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    I have only used the 2nd version, except I turn ignition on and pump pedal right away, the pump will run for a while, switch itself off then run again and it repeats this cycle about 6 or more times.

    Is good way to bleed the system of any air, I usually run through this routine several times.

    P.S. I've never had any warning lights come on that I remember.
     
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  3. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    Did u read fault codes since?.....also cear of them?
     
  4. T1G UP

    T1G UP New Member

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    FFS why would it throw a fault? its the standard LR purging procedure.

    it purges the air out of the fuel system after a filter change or in my case, an engine change. No cranking required so a good battery rather than cranking an airlocked system and NOT starting.

    Where did you get that mickey mouse way of starting an engine?
     
  5. Clanforbes

    Clanforbes New Member

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    Yeah, I did read the fault codes and I think there was one about the MIL lamp, but it cleared and never came back as far as I know. I don't read my fault codes that often, just now and then and I only read them last time because I'd been checking my tappet settings and was gonna fit a fuel pressure gauge, but I had the wrong size of union so had to abandon it until I get the right one, hence I had to re-bleed the system recently.

    When I think about it now, I think one lamp on the dash did flash up for a second as it started the cycle, but I wouldn't want to swear to it in court or anything.
     
  6. Clanforbes

    Clanforbes New Member

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    T1g, I don't think he was using this to start his engine, I assumed he was bleeding the fuel system, though I have seen other people saying that they can only get it started after a purge cycle on some other threads.
     
  7. Pughy

    Pughy New Member

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    Hi guys. Not sure if this is the right place to ask but i need some advice asap!

    I've recently replaced the fuel filter and fuel filter head on my 110 TD5, i was advised by a local landy specialist to purge the fuel system by method no.2 (igg. on and 5 pedal presses)

    But my landy will not start now! Turn the igg. on and i can hear the fuel pump, after a few seconds the fuel pump stops but when i turn the key nothing happens. No clicking or anything. It just doesn't want to know?

    Please, any suggestions are welcome?

    Pughy.
     
  8. The Mad Hat Man

    The Mad Hat Man Well-Known Member LZIR Despatch Agent

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    please :search: - CharlesY and Shifty are discussing it on another thread.
     
  9. minidod

    minidod Active Member

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    Used the 2nd method serveral times on 2 Discoverys when chaging the filter or Fuel connector and never had any lights on the dash but never checked the fault codes.

    Can't understand why the ECU would create any faults when it is programed to run the fuel pump on a purge routine, if you are getting faults then I would say something else is wrong on the car.
     
  10. Clanforbes

    Clanforbes New Member

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    I'm guessing you used search and found this thread, but as mentioned above, there is another thread with a discussion on the go, and one of the poster (Shifty) is whom I learned it from, so credit goes to him for it.

    Did you let it run through the entire cycle of pump running then stopping then running again - as I mentioned above, the purge cycle (if done correctly) will do this automatically. But personally, I would recommend running the purge cycle a good few times over and over as it takes a while to get the air completely out of the entire system. I like to do it for anything up to 15 minutes (or more.)

    If it helps, I will repeat what I do. I switch on the ignition key to the ignition on position (pos II) and quickly press the throttle pedal fully down to the floor and release it again and repeat the pedal pressing another 4 or 5 times, quickly, I don't pause in between presses. The pump will start as soon as I switch the ignition on and will run for about 45 secs. Then it will stop, I do nothing, I simply wait for about another 30 secs or so and the pump will re-start of it's own accord. It will go through this routine several more times. When it has finished the cycle, it will stay off until I either switch off the ignition and start the purge cycle again or start the engine. When I start the purge cycle (if I've been in the fuel system) I will usually hear the pump whining quite loudly as the air passes through (sometimes I might even hear air gurgling through the fuel pressure regulator too.)

    TD5's are pretty notorious for being difficult to start if there is any air in the system which is why I prefer to err on the side of caution and overdo the purging of any air until the pump runs almost silently from start to finish of the entire cycle.

    I hope this helps.
     
  11. ratty

    ratty I'm not special I'm limited edition Global Moderator

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    check the immobiliser is off. If it is already off, try wiggling the fly lead to the starter motor. If it still won't start you'll need to make sure the lead is getting a live feed when the key is turned to the crank position. If the feed is going live but it aint starting, yer starter motor is goosed.
     
  12. Pughy

    Pughy New Member

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    Fantastic, cheers ratty, sorted now :0)
     
  13. ratty

    ratty I'm not special I'm limited edition Global Moderator

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    Nice.:)
     
  14. jkm71

    jkm71 New Member

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    gday all,
    My defender td5 110 is knocking mainly when cold and was advised to use a purging canister on fuel lines, is this so? and has anyone out there done this before and has handy hints on procedure?

    thx, jkm.
     
  15. Beneagles

    Beneagles Well-Known Member

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    Hi again folks....Lazarus here...
    Following strip down and replacing the 4 rearmost fuel lines as part of the re-chassis job that has been ongoing since Lazarus first walked upon this earth, I now have a non-start situation.
    So I have run the purging process several times now - and still no sign of fuel reaching the engine.
    The pump is whining at a slightly higher pitch now....and no longer cuts in again after the 45 second cut-off
    Any ideas?????
    Please!!!!
    :D
     
  16. neilly

    neilly Well-Known Member

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    How did you run it? did the EML light come one?

    Have you checked the fuel flow at the FPR? flow rate?

    I have had one take 5 or 6 times to start running, other ones have started straight away.

    Is battery at full strength?

    Cheers
     
  17. Beneagles

    Beneagles Well-Known Member

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    Hi @neilly
    When it was purging, the eml light and the water-in-fuel light would come on as the pump kicked in again. Now only the usual ignition lights remain on.
    Not checked at the FPR due to access difficulties but pressure certainly at the filter exit and the fuel cooler entry points.
    Battery was new 2 weeks back....and has been charged since
    Frustrating!!! :)
     
  18. neilly

    neilly Well-Known Member

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    Only reason, I asked , as I had similar issue where the HP side of the pump failed.

    Checking the fuel rate and pressure at the FPR , I was able to check flow rate as being only from the LP side.

    Car was running until I did a fuel filter change.

    Cheers
     
  19. Beneagles

    Beneagles Well-Known Member

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    Doubly frustrating when you do the right thing (filter change) and it kicks you in the teeth!
    That's Landies I guess. :p
     
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  20. sierrafery

    sierrafery Well-Known Member

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    Are you sure you fitted the pipes into the correct ports on the pump? cos the HP doesnt reach the filter, it goes directly to the FPR, at the filter is only return and LP
     
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