Disco 3 (LR3) TDV6 loss of power and rattle

171k miles.

Took it on a long journey with the boat on the back last week. On the way back, there was a burning smell, possibly rubber, so I stopped and had a look. Seemed to be coming from the back of the engine, and could see some coming away from the gearbox. There was a small split in the boost pipe so I put it down to that and we got home ok.

The wife used it in the meantime, reporting occasional black smoke on acceleration - thought it was the spilt boost pipe so taped it up while waiting for the new one.

Used it today, total loss of power, nasty ratting sound, lumpy idle. Won’t accelerate. Sounds bug gered.

I’ll run the iCarsoft over it later today, but any ideas what it might be/ what to check. I’m thinking timing belt/chain, but these were (apparently) changed last year.

Cheers

Dont even run it until you have checked the belts out, the front one being the most important, and even if the belt is there remove the front cover and check the oil pump/cam belt tensioner mount.
Cooling fan needs to come off for access.

What year is the car, and was the oil pump changed with the timing belt, if it’s a pre-2007.

Didn’t get a chance to look today, but thanks for the advice for now. I’ll have a read of the haynes manual to find out where the various belts are.

It’s an 07, (7A model year). I read the buyers’ guide on here, and asked the seller about the oil pump - he said it was the new type.

Busted camshaft sprocket.


There’s also some damage to the timing cover near the tensioner:


Why did the cam sprocket break?
Is it worth fitting a new one, and a timing belt/tensioner, and trying it out?

I know it does not look it, but you could be one very lucky man.

Did the engine used to lightly rattle/tinkle when it was first started only for a second or two?

I would bet a pint the camchain at the rear of that head has broken (the tinkle is the first sign that the tensioner is weak) I would say take the head off and see what the damage is, amazingly used heads are not very expensive at all.

Ebay 80 for bare head to 200 quid, get one wth cams etc as yours might be dead
Adverts make mention of the casting number has to be the same, so check that bit of info out to be sure.

Ps take a look at the date cast into the oil pump, and you can see how old it is, also double check it is the stronger type.

Cam chain is ok, but one of the camshaft cap bolts has sheared off, and many of the cam followers have been damaged/displaced. This must have happened as the pistons hit the valves, but why it all started is a mystery.

That’s enough for me today. What more needs to come off for head removal? Also, forgive my ignorance, but where is the oil pump (and date)?

Oil pump is the alloy casting behind the crank pulley/damper.
Gary aka @gstuart has posted some pics up on here somewhere showing old and new style pumps, if you cannot find them google will have some.

Might be worth checking to see if both the cams are still timed up, dont ask me how as I have no idea! some dots on the sprockets rings a bell?

Date is cast into a circle on the passenger side of the pump.

guineafowl21 said:

Cam chain is ok, but one of the camshaft cap bolts has sheared off, and many of the cam followers have been damaged/displaced

Click to expand...

Maybe a cam has seized, causing the timing pulley to fail.
It's unusual for a cam to seize, but I can't think of another reason for the pulley to fail, but would guess that the pulley failure is secondary to something else.

Got the head loose, but not off as there’s something holding it at the back I can’t reach. Cylinders look fine, crank turns ok.

It looks like a new head would get this going again, but it was a massive hassle to get this far with the body on. It might be worth taking in somewhere to get the body off, then either swapping in a new head or engine.

Hi mate appreciate this is an old thread and you sold it but did you ever get to the bottom of why this happened?

Vac pump seized or whatever?