TD5 slack clutch pedal

Ok, all you techies out there, has any one come across this before. Clutch pedal has free play for nearlly one third to half the pedal. You can then feel the hydraulic pressure do something and all gears engage with out fault except reverse, which most of the time crunches unless you are really carefull.

As soon as you twitch your toes, the clutch bites and you are off.

I bought this vehicle ( a Discovery TD5 ES 2001) way under book price as the last owner, apparently was fed up with the car and changing to a disco3. On checking the service history it had a new flywheel and clutch kit (OEM) fitted about 500 miles ago. It has only covered about 2000 miles all year and around 1500 since its last service in March.

My mechanic checked the vehicle over prior to purchase, and the only fault we could come up with was the clutch being slack. As it had all this work done not long back, we assumed it would be hydraulic. I have owned it for one week and had the master and slave cylinder replaced but the pedal is still the same.

Has any one else come across this, its driving me mad, as my only chance now is to try and get the garage who fitted the clutch for the previous owner to take the box off and have a look, but they have pre warned me that if nothing is wrong with the parts they fitted then i am going to be landed with a hefty bill!

All thoughts would be appreciated.

Martin

was it like it when the PO had it? if so why dint he say something to the garage? did it do it before the new clutch was fitted? can we assume the garage checked fer bent fork or worn pivot?

To be honest, Trying to extract info out of the previous owner is like trying to get blood out of a stone.

I believe it originally went in for a noise or vibration, which was diagnosed on the receipt as an excessively worn flywheel. Whilst the box was off they changed the clutch. He reckons its always been like it, and having spoken to the garage who have looked after this vehicle once it was out of warranty, they reckon it has always had clutch issues.

I had a snapped fork on a 300 tdi but i have led to believe that the TD5 has a much stronger fork.

Martin

no problems like that with my 2001 TD5

try doing a search in this section - I can remember quite a few threads about problems after replacing clutches on disco's

going off on a tangent - seeing as you've recently driven a tdi & just switched to a TD5 - what do you think of the handling difference between the 2 (as regards to the ACE system) ? - I think my TD5 handles great & a mate is thinking of buying either a late tdi or an early TD5 (he prefers the idea of a tdi because of all the electrickery on the TD5's ) but I've heard that the handling difference between the 2 is considerable - just wondered what you thought ?

these were the threads I was thinking of

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/new-clutch-no-clutch-43810.html?highlight=clutch

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/new-clutch-700-no-clutch-44072.html?highlight=clutch


http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/soft-clutch-pedal-39854.html?highlight=clutch

agree with what route your taking, one thing i can say if its anything like the older ones then they take an awfull lot of effort to bleed properly, its worth a try if its had new cylinders fitted and its been a prob since???

I would try bleeding the system first, just to be sure. Its easy to do on the TD5. I did mine by opening the bleed valve on the slave cylinder and getting someone to push the clutch pedal in. Worked a treat.

wish mine was that easy when i changed my gear boxes and done the cylynders at the same time, took about 45 mins to bleed manually, so wish i had a power bleed at that time haha!

the thing is, it had the cylinders changed to tery and solve the slack pedal syndrome. It was done at a garage I have used for years, and the mech their is 100% on Landy`s.

I am pretty sure its not Hydraulic, so box off time next week I reckon.

martin

why dont ya just adjust the slack out of the pedal? i changed both master and slave and mine was doin the same thing...u just fart at a robo and yer jump fwd. adjusted till i had abt 1cm of play in the pedal and was back to normal.

is yer clutch and brake pedals at the same height?

How do you do that then? Where is the adjuster?

Martin

not sure on yer disco...but on a def its under the bonner where yr master cyl goes. otherwise its down at the pedals...the shaft that connects from the pedal to the plunger in the master cylinder is threaded. adjusting this will raise or lower your clutch engage point on the pedal. yours is too low so u gotta shorten the lenght of the shaft

buy n auto

There is no adjuster on a TD5 disco. Pedals start pretty much same height.

JCB, **** comment!

M

well then, get yerself a Defender mate

Nah...................if I wanted a TRACTOR....................I would buy a proper one like a JOHN DEERE!

ouch!

Back-bleed the clutch.

Open the bleed nipple on the gearbox end and let the fluid out. get yourself a windscreen washer motor and some rubber pipe to fit, put one end in a tin of brake fluid and to the input of the motor, and the output of the motor to the slave cylinder bleed nipple on the gearbox. Get yourself a latex glove, take the top off the master cylinder and cable tie the glove round the top tof the master cylinder to catch excess fluid.
Give the motor some power (we just go direct off the battery), and fill the system in reverse.

We use this method at work, as our clutches are an arse to bleed any other way.

Rob.