TD5 MAP sensor

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Gordy88

Active Member
Posts
221
Location
Lisburn, Co Antrim
Ive had an on-going vibration at tickover on the Disco2

On the advice on Big lad and others, ive cleaned the MAP sensor, it was covered in a tarry mess,

It seems a wee bit better, not right, but better, although it seems the inlet manifold is covered in the same muck.

Is it worth taking it off to clean it properly?

Also, would that same glar be getting through to the injectors?

Ive also changed the MAf, and Hawkeye is throwing up no faults other than egr stuck closed, i assume thats because its been removed

cheers

Gordon
 
Ive had an on-going vibration at tickover on the Disco2

On the advice on Big lad and others, ive cleaned the MAP sensor, it was covered in a tarry mess,

It seems a wee bit better, not right, but better, although it seems the inlet manifold is covered in the same muck.

Is it worth taking it off to clean it properly?

Also, would that same glar be getting through to the injectors?

Ive also changed the MAf, and Hawkeye is throwing up no faults other than egr stuck closed, i assume thats because its been removed

cheers

Gordon
Well worth cleaning the manifold and the intercooler (assuming it has one) Don't know the Disco in detail. There may still be some gunk in the MAP sensor, look at live data for the MAP sensor to see if it is operating correctly.
 
Ive had an on-going vibration at tickover on the Disco2

On the advice on Big lad and others, ive cleaned the MAP sensor, it was covered in a tarry mess,

It seems a wee bit better, not right, but better, although it seems the inlet manifold is covered in the same muck.

Is it worth taking it off to clean it properly?

Also, would that same glar be getting through to the injectors?

Ive also changed the MAf, and Hawkeye is throwing up no faults other than egr stuck closed, i assume thats because its been removed

cheers

Gordon



Hi Gordon, have you done the following:

1. Checked/cleaned the main engine ECU plugs. There is often oil in them which can cause bad running. Disconnect main battery before disconnecting ECU plugs. If you find any oil, use your aerosol can of brake and clutch cleaner to clean both plugs and sockets, then allow to dry.

2. Have you checked the MAF using your Hawkeye? You need to see live data whilst the engine is running: approx 60kg/hr at tickover and approx 600 at full chat. There are 2 set of units shown in Hawkeye for this unit, volts and kg/hr (or similar) the voltage figures are not helpful for this purpose.

Both of these can be checked with the vehicle at standstill.

3. Check the functioning of the MAP using Hawkeye and report finding.

Good luck

Dave
 
Are you sure its a firing issue and not a pulley bearing or similar? Could be crank damper starting to play up.
 
Thanks Guys

@Musky, never though of that, 140,000 miles. Is that the sort of time you would expect one to go?

ecus and wires are fine, i had replaced the injector loom about 3 months ago, it was ok then, it was ok then as when i got the car, i cleaned it, and then smudged rtv gasket sealer into the red plug and around the wires, anyway all's ok there.

put hawkeye on this morning, (i'm in Lisburn, just outside Belfast if anyone locally needs a reading) on the Live Data listing, i had MAN pressure of 96 KP at tickover, 135 KP at 3000 revs

MAF reading of 55.8 at Tickover and 400 at 3k revs

MAF meter is new, £35 off ebay, and air filter is a month old

Turbo WG valve moves with vicegrips, and the WG reading on Hawkeye is 00.00 at tickover and 6.71 foot to the floor

I forget to say, the car pulls fine when moving, its all at t/o, 1000 revs and all smooths out

cheers

Gordon
 
Just a thought on the crank TV damper. Not sure of a typical lifespan mileage wise but it is a common failure. It can be damaged by other drive pulleys being tight. Typically causes a rattle at idle/low rpm and when increasing/reducing engine speed. Your slight vibration could be just the start of it though. I see you are getting plenty good advice already but be a shame to blaming your combustion abd spending time and money there and it turns out to ve something more obvious such as a loose pulley or bad bearing/ belt tensioner or similar. Does your disco have ACE btw? That can cause a low rev "hum" You could always try removing your serp belt and run for a short time to see if this stops vibration.
 
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Just a thought on the crank TV damper. Not sure of a typical lifespan mileage wise but it is a common failure. It can be damaged by other drive pulleys being tight. Typically causes a rattle at idle/low rpm and when increasing/reducing engine speed. Your slight vibration could be just the start of it though. I see you are getting plenty good advice already but be a shame to blaming your combustion abd spending time and money there and it turns out to ve something more obvious such as a loose pulley or bad bearing/ belt tensioner or similar. Does your disco have ACE btw? That can cause a low rev "hum" You could always try removing your serp belt and run for a short time to see if this stops vibration.

I'll drop the belt and have a feel at it.

I plan to do the injector seal and washers as a preventative thing, so i think i;ll clean the inlet plenum and intercooler too.

Its becoming personal now, the door lock buttons even vibrate, i would dearly love to find it, as its really is driving me nuts!

thanks
 
Re engine mounts, i replaced them too last year

I dropped the belt, there is a tiny bit of movement in the damper pulley, approx 1mm fore and aft

I didnt think to run the car with it off.

I did ring my local independant dealer, just to see how many they sell, to be told that they cant get them anymore, as LR have discontinued them,has anyone else heard this?
 
Since cleaning the MAP seemed to improve things my only other suggestion would be to replace the depression control valve - they really ought to be a service item.
 
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