Disco 2 TD5 is dead since almost 2 months..

Hi.
Recently, well, since almost two months my land rover is standing and growing moss because it doesn't want to start.

What I did is i read the forum and according to that information i did:

Replaced fuel pump
Checked CPS
Checked oil level
Cleaned ECU plugs from oil
Cleaned and replaced oring from injector harness
Checked errors in computer
Checked fuel pump relay
Checked all fuses
Read with computer, no error (fuel temp, water temp, rpm, intake air, air mass and so, and so looks all good)
Tested injectors with computer, all of them make the "click" (i know it's not reliable..)
Fuel pressure going directly out of pump is almost reaching 9 bar, from the fuel temp sensor it is 4.8bar, when i take out the return hose from injectors it can reach up to 9 that means the fuel pressure regulator is working good.
I've also took of the ECU and took of the metal cover, no oil inside, just the oil in the plugs that has been cleaned.

So now I ask you guys for help, what do I miss? Where to look for the solution? Engine cranks very well, (used 4 batteries connected together to have more start power), still nothing. Not the slighest will to start.

Yesterday I gave up and I am out of ideas.

to start off you need to change the injector loom,changing the o rings isnt enough,not that that should prevent starting, can you hear air circulating with ignition on in the fuel system

Fuel feed and all fuel tubes has been purged many times, no possible air inside.
I've checked injector harness and there is no visible damage to it, hence why replace it? Cleaned all the contacts and cleaned all the oil, it's unbeliveable that it would be the case imo. Before the engine stopped it's life it was running good. I was driving and it studdenly dropped from the power, then stopped completely.

oil runs up the wires not past the o rings, theres no such thing as not possible because youve purged it ,can you hear air or how does pump sound, theres no engine orange warning symbol?

If there's oil in the red ecu plug the loom needs changing mate. Sometimes cleaning will temp fix. Can cause poor/No starting so worth doing. You've done loads anyway

if it's manual try to bump start it with starter relay removed if it starts replace the starter, you said you read rpm while cranking, can you remember what was that?

jamesmartin said:

oil runs up the wires not past the o rings, theres no such thing as not possible because youve purged it ,can you hear air or how does pump sound, theres no engine orange warning symbol?

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Purged system by bypassing relay, pump sounds quiet, it's new one. No air in the system.

1988smithy said:

If there's oil in the red ecu plug the loom needs changing mate. Sometimes cleaning will temp fix. Can cause poor/No starting so worth doing. You've done loads anyway

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Ill try, but idk where can i find new harness in germany, doh, will need to order from UK i guess? :/

sierrafery said:

if it's manual try to bump start it with starter relay removed if it starts replace the starter, you said you read rpm while cranking, can you remember what was that?

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Around 150-200, cant remember exacly, checked CPS with ohm meter and it looks okay.
Yeah the car has manual gearbox. What is this "start relay" exacly?

If the crank signal is below 200rpm it will not start, resistance check on the CPS is irrelevant...also the pump purging sequence is ignition on and 5 times depress throttle cosecutively then wait for the MIL to stop flashing not by bypassing the pump relay... starter relay is R2

sierrafery said:

Below 200rpm it will not start, resistance check on the CPS is irrelevant...also the pump purging sequence is ignition on and 5 times depress throttle cosecutively then wait for the MIL to stop flashing not by bypassing the pump relay... starter relay is R2

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I know how to purge the system by pressing 5 times gas pedal, bypassing relay was just a way faster and easier to check the fuel pressure here and there .
Next time i check CPS again to see what RPM is exacly when cranking.
What is exacly this starter relay and what does it do? Why car "would" fire up without it? Is it common problem in landy td5?

A common problem is that the starter to have an internal issue which disturbs the crank signal by electromagnetic ''noise'' then it will not start while cranking but starts if it's towed, i said to remove the relay to make sure that you'll not activate the starter if you try to bump start it you have a reflex to crank it that's the only reason

Worth a try, will do this at monday R2 relay is fitted somewhere together with fuel pump relay?

R2 is in the fusebox near the pump's relay which is R1 but if you know to not crank it while it's towed let R2 alone.... there's a scheme of fuses and relays on the fusebox's lid inside

May not be the issue, but it's not too unheard of for the gauze filter in the fuel pressure regulator to be blocked. Have you definitely got fuel returning to the tank?

Also, I see you said you have checked the outputs with diagnostics, does the ECU say that its immobilised? The BCU may be fine, but the ECU may have lost the Security code if it's been standing for long periods of time with a flat battery. Had this with my own before, just had to tell it to relearn the code and started straight away