td5 cranking but not starting

Hi guys, this has probably been done to death so I'm sorry, but looking at previous threads I cannot find an answer,so here goes, a bloke who lives around the corner who I had never met before had broken down at side of road, so being a fellow landy enthuse I stopped to see if I could be of any assistance, he informed me that the vehicle had started to run very rough then cut out, he replaced fuel filter and got it started (very rough) then died, i towed him to my house but still had no joy.
I've cleaned oil from ecu.
Have good continuity from main injector plug to ends of injectors
I've purged the fuel system at least 6 times now
Reset ecu.
checked all plugs for oil
Opened ecu (no oil)
But still it will not start any ideas please

Forgot to say fuel pump is working and fuel is passing through return pipe

Common problems:
1. Injectors have copper washers and O-rings. These are known to fail. Cheap to buy - get genuine parts. A slide hammer makes the job easier or make a lever out of an old allen key.
2. Could be Injector loom. About £30. Easily done whilst rocker cover is off.
3. In the fuel filter housing is an air purge system. Could be this. Check condition of housing for corrosion when removing the outer rear spigot. If its bad it can be hard to get a seal and thus a new housing may be required.
4. Filter housing has a non-return valve. Inner forward spigot. If its broken down there could be parts in the filter line.
5. Fuel pressure regulator. known to develop leaks. On removal there is a small gauze inside the engine check for blockage.

As you said oil in plug at ecu, I'd go with 1 & 2 for your symptoms.

Just towed it around the block and still will not start, would the injector washers cause it to refuse to start? Don't think it's injector loom as have ohm tested it and seems ok, although when I tried to test the main plug it plugs into I was getting some very bizarre readings as the multimeter would not settle numbers were up and down constantly, would this point to ECU or are these reading normal?

if there was oil in the red ecu plug i'd definately change the injector loom

i also agree that it is probably injector seals

on mine it got to the stage where it was difficult to start and cutout when it got to running temperature - changed the seals and it now starts first time and hasn't cutout since

no guarantee that yours is the same but this is a common problem

If injector loom was faulty would there not be a diffrence when ohms testing with a multi meter as all 5 plugs had 3 ohms?

phippsey27 said:

If injector loom was faulty would there not be a diffrence when ohms testing with a multi meter as all 5 plugs had 3 ohms?

Click to expand...

It has had oil in so change it to prevent further damage

if it's so stubborn it might be the crank sensor/signal dead as well... would be more efficient to plug in a tester though