TD5 Air In Fuel System, Cutting out

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swanowski

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Hi, could anyone add any ideas or advice, I have a 99/2000 TD5 Discovery 2 with about 130,000 on the clock, I replaced the head at about 100,000miles and a new fuel pump. Over the past six months the disco would cut out intermittently while driving, sometimes it would cut out other times it would run lumpy all of a sudden, when switched off and restarted the it would usually start straight away. Then sometimes this might not happen again for a month. I changed fuel filters but no difference, then read about the oil in loom problem, removed all the loom and ECU sockets, cleaned them then ran ok again. Last week it got worse over two days until it would hardly start at all. I bought a new injector loom cleaned all sockets (there was no oil in ECU), started it up ran perfect then stopped half a mile from the house, got it back home in stages of stopping purging and starting again. I put new filter in, it done the same again, it started and ran sometimes perfect, but stopped just up the road. My fuel pressure regulator had been leaking for a while, so to rule that out, I put a new one on, with gasket and O-ring and cleaned the gauze filter, which was ok. Purged the fuel started again ran perfect stopped just outside the house. I noticed during all this that there was a sound of air in the system around the fuel pressure regulator area, even after it was bled, so I changed the fuel injector coppers and O rings in case air coming in or out past injectors. Started up perfect and the same again, stopped after a bit of load outside the house, again it started after purging the system. This time I removed the fuel pump, which was pumping fuel fine through all the connections at the regulator and fuel cooler, I cleaned out all the filters in the fuel pump. Then started her up, and same again, it ran perfect and then cut out slightly further up the road and then started again after purging. There is still a sound of air in the system especially around the regulator back of the head area, there is no fuel in the oil and no oil leaks, I also had diagnostics plugged in and the showed all clear, except off course when it cut out up the road. The pump always runs the full cycle when purging the system, it never primes and cuts out. I also filled the tank to the neck to rule out low fuel in the tank and pump. Can the pump create air in the high pressure system between itself and the regulator/head. Any one any ideas, I’m going mad... :(
 
leaky regulator/O ring, chaffed fuel line on the chassis rail, faulty injector seal/injector, cracked filter housing, filter drain plug/water trap stripped thread/loose. etc etc. All are common faults.
 
Could it be a crack in the head. Ive heard that they go under the injector seat so combustion pressure will enter the fuel gallery. I know you said you have had a new head but it may be worth compression testing the 4 cylinders you can through the glow plug hole.
 
If you think it's air in the fuel line stick a section of clear tubing between filter and pump to confirm ;)
 
Cheers gR@HaM, I had just tried that last night. I made up some fuel connections and lines, by-passing the cylinder head and directed them into a large 5 liter glass jug, it is pumping fuel really well, but with fine bubles that never seem to clear even after full purging cycle. So that means it's in the line direct from the high pressure pump side. I then done the same on the low pressure return to the pump at the tank, which is meant to feed the high pressure pump, there's no air in that, so the pump must be creating air in the high pressure side to the head. Which is strange even with the tank filled to the neck, but then it is a Land Rover. I removed the pump again for second time, took it apart checked it, everything seems ok. I'll try the pump in once more with every thing cleaned and checked, then after that is a new pump. That'll be the second new pump in two years, but i suppose the wife almost running it out of fuel every other week doesn't help.
Cheers.
 
I put a new fuel pump in, bled the system and it started up and ran well, but again cut out at the bottom of the drive as if out of fuel. When you purge/bleed the system it allways goes the full cycle and never cuts out as if primed. Can any one tell me what actually signals that the fuel is primed in the head and up to pressure and then cuts out the fuel pump. Has any one ever had a new fuel pressure regulator that was faulty also.
Cheers Mike
 
Just to finish the story. I bought a new pump, fitted it, the TD5 started perfect then sat ticking over for a while, I took it up the road and it went perfect. I brought it home stopped it and went out in it again about an hour later and it stopped up the road as if running out of fuel. A secondhand ECU was fitted and it done the same thing. To cut another long story short, after another few weeks of trying every single thing possible it worked out to be a couple of wires rubbing through the loom down the back of the engine, these lovely little bitches would intermitantly short out various parts of the electronics and shut them down, then show no signs of their crime on the diagnostics..... Ba*****s
 
There is a so called "air bleed valve" within he fuel filter housing nr.7, unfortunatelly i dunno the part number maybe someone around here will help....replace this one before u do anything else


filterd.png
 
I had one recently that had a new head-one of the injectors was loose-same problem, get it checked, not a big job, also make sure genuine injector washers were used.
 
i had a problem simler to yours first with out pulling things apart think how the diesel system works compression will get into the headand come out down the return back to the filter now the return goes back to the filter air will be in the filter . the diesel pump in the tank will return that air lock. i took off the return coming from engine to the filter and the union from other side of filter blanked off the filter housing joined the two pipes up so now the fuel will go straight back to the tank so the pump will not suck eny air up from the pump side. that will prove you have air coming from the head
because my filter was hot and making a bad niose
and thats how i knew
 
Hi Folks - can you tell me where I can locate the wires at the back of the engine that were shorting out? I've just replaced injector seals and loom due to the cutting out problem and the car started, ticked over, drove home, now it won't start! any other suggestions?
 
swanowski said:
Just to finish the story. I bought a new pump, fitted it, the TD5 started perfect then sat ticking over for a while, I took it up the road and it went perfect. I brought it home stopped it and went out in it again about an hour later and it stopped up the road as if running out of fuel. A secondhand ECU was fitted and it done the same thing. To cut another long story short, after another few weeks of trying every single thing possible it worked out to be a couple of wires rubbing through the loom down the back of the engine, these lovely little bitches would intermitantly short out various parts of the electronics and shut them down, then show no signs of their crime on the diagnostics..... Ba*****s
Click to expand...

I have had this very problem for the past few months. It will idle all day but as soon as I drive it or rev it 2000rpm or more, within 8 minutes it cuts out.
Can you tell me where these wires are so I can check.
 
Looks like the O/P was another classic "Use 'em and lose 'em" new member who joins the forum, asks a question, gets an answer then clears off never to return.
 
Did anyone manage to make any progress on this?
I'm having a total shocker. Car was OK, but cutting out when pushed, and with lots of diesel in the sump oil.
So we changed the injector seals, and now the thin will only run for 30 seconds before running out of diesel.

Any ideas?
 
With the wire chaffing round the back of the engine, I can only see the one that looks like it goes into the wastegate is that the one we are talking about? I'm having the same issue, gave that wire wiggle and it appeared to run fine once I started to rev the engine the it started to struggle again.
 
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