Freelander 1 SOLVED: td4 " P1190 Governor fuel plausibility deviation at high speed ".

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just updating this saga .. :)
can't yet write 'solved' in the header as yet to road-test work .. no mot at mo. :-/
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anyhow .. last nov. decided to replace the hp.pump fuel regulator ..
sourced a genuine bosch regulator .. n started to dismantle bits 'n pieces ..
'n all went wrong .. mostly my fault ..
managed to round off the front starter nut and bolt ..
[ i should have used 6pt sockets .. not 12pt .. ]
but .. even with the specialist irwin sockets ..
i couldn't get enough leverage on bolt to budge it at all ..

in the meantime managed to undo the two regulator bolts ..
then .. another big mistake ..
as the regulator wouldn't come out by hand ..
i levered it out .. and in the process broke the regulator shaft ..
part of which remained inside the h.p.pump :-[[

so .. what to do ?
get it recovered to a garage .. possibly needing to replace the hp.pump
or persevere at home .. in the street ..
hoping i could get the starter removed and therefore get a good grip on the broken regulator shaft
'n hoping that could be pulled out without leaving debris inside the pump

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things got left .. as the weather weren't friendly fer working outside ..
' i had to come up with a starter bolt removal method ..
i ended up deciding to take a hacksaw to the offending nut ..
3 sessions with this hacksaw .. and suitable blade :
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/61-2in-mini-hacksaw/
did the job ;-]

starter motor removed without further fuss ..
broken regulator shaft came out intact using long nose pliers
[ rubber and nylon washers still in place .. nowt left inside pump ]
big sigh of relief ;-}}

'nother worry was that i'd dropped a metal hose clip
from off the hp.pump return lines ..
and thought it had gone down between pump and alternator ..
[ i.e. was it anywhere near belts n pulleys .. or jammed inside the alternator ?? ]
didn't hear it hit the engine tray ..

anyhowz .. turned out it had rolled to the right 'n was easily retrieved .. :-}

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so .. replaced the regulator .. with the new 'bosch' job
sourced new bolts for the starter ..
cleaned all electrical terminals and sensor plugs-sockets
refitted starter motor .. torqued up the bolts to spec.

re-assembled all pipes / hoses .. n topped up coolant ..
trickle charged the battery .. full after 7 hours ..
[ it had been sitting 8months .. neg. cable removed ]
refitted battery .. 'n ran the low pressure pump for 30 seconds ..
let it cool .. then another 30 second burst ..
checked for leaks .. then gave starting it a shot ..
after a bit of cranking it chugged into life n' settled down to a smooth idle

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took it for a short run on these back streets ..
all good so far ..
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gave a good clean out inside
pressure-washed the exterior ..
treated all rubber n plastic trim with armor-all
replaced all wipers ..

now ready for mot

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as for the original issue ..
well decided to replace the hp.regulator
as the 1st hp.pump replacement included a faulty regulator ..
that hp.pump were replaced as a unit [pump + regulator]
given all other fuel related main parts were replaced with new bits
i was wondering if the regulator was part of a faulty batch ..
hence decided to replace it ..
[ the dealership replaced hp.pump be of unknown origin
[ it certainly looks like a rebuilt job ..
[ unknown markings on the regulator

the bosch replacement regulator came from germany ..
looks to be made in czechoslovakia
as did my brand-new injectors
[ sourced from an lr independant garage .. ]

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has it solved the initial issue ??
no idea .. yet ..
[ the synergy-2a box 'n extra turbo controller have both been totally removed
[ IF all goes well .. i might consider getting it re-mapped ..
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on a positive note ..
on restart .. engine no longer acts like a wind-up toy ..
it jumps into life like it used to do prior to the 'issue'
and ..
mot now in better weather month .. as opposed to prev. winter time :-}
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and btw:
the 'new' injectors were sourced here :
http://www.ribblevalley4x4.com
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a.t.b.
`s`
Do like a good saga... a good saga for the reader that is!

Hope it performs well for you after all this agro!
 
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EDIT 19th August 2021 :
have trashed part of this post ..

what i thought was scoring on the regulator tip
be .. in fact .. a porous mesh ..
obviously there to equalise pressure behind the rubber washer
same goes for the shaft holes that are behind the washer

end edit.

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my hp.pump .. was replaced 12k miles ago
[ by an LR dealership ]
am now worried with regards to the new regulator ..
and my new injectors ..
am thinking that replacing the h.p.pump might be a good precaution

[ i do have a rebuilt one .. 2 year warranty ..
[ from advanced factors ..

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that 'permanent fix' in the vid ?
was to cut the tip off from the shaft ..
it's hollow inside 'n were cut off with a wire cutter
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the vid .. english not his first language ..
'n takes a long time to get a focused view of the scoring


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also read a thread on another forum ..
same hawkeye fault description as mine ..
poster tried everything .. regulator .. injectors .. sensors .. wiring harness .. etc etc
only thing that fixed it were to replace the h.p.pump
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for me now ..
mot on tuesday .. ;-/
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atb
`s`
 
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just went and checked for fault-codes .. and clear any .. before driving it to the mot
and was a fault code i'd not seen before ..

p1195 .. h.p.fuel regulator short circuit
[ hawkeye description ]

thing is .. i can't remember if i cleared fault codes before working on the car

first thing i did were to remove the negative lead from the battery ..
then various sensor plugs were unplugged ..
plugs and sockets all cleaned ..
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then .. after work done .. all sensors plugged in ..
removed battery for a recharge ..
then refitted battery and started engine
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question .. if i may ..
is there anything in that sequence that would cause the ecu to log that 'p1195 .. h.p.fuel regulator short circuit' ??

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i were actually wondering about the previous regulator [of unknown manufacturing origin]
might have had dodgy cheap insulation on the coil windings ..
'n the engine bay heat on the day of the initial issue .. was just too much for it
``
and maybe .. having the ron-box hooked up added to the current running
through the coil .. adding to the ambient heat
or .. something like that ;-]
[ am assuming it has coil windings .. it being a solenoid .. i could be wrong .. :-/ ]

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mot passed :cool:
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took it for a 20 mile spin ..
engine running ok :-]
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will give it a few weeks .. maybe re-install the ron box with a medium setting n see how it runs
if no return of the fuel issue .. i'll change the header to 'solved' .. [ fingers n paws crossed ;-]
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a.t.b.
`s`
 
couple of weeks later ..

in short ..'no' .. i've not figured the cause .. yet ..
and am still getting the p1190 code ..

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3 x 60 mile round trips
[ mixed .. flat > steep climbs ]

with .. and without .. the synergy2 / digi1 tuning modules

what is consistent . . be that it runs fine on the 30mile outbound trip
then screws up on the return journey ..
common denominator be engine-bay heat rise ..
e.g. .. e.b. heat soak after being parked up ..
[ i can monitor iat temps with a scangaugeII ]

symptoms be far worse with the synergy2 connected and 'fuel' turned 'on'

on the other hand .. when it runs well outbound ..
am surprised at the 'stock' performance .. having just the *intake mod* 'effect':-}
so no plans to refit the synergy box .. at all ..

[ ** fer new residents : https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/intercooler-problem-mod.126484/ ]

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have had a 'hawkeye' hooked up for 1 trip .. monitoring hp.fuel press.
but .. the screen has a sleep mode .. needing a button push to re-activate
and .. i've not caught the hpf data at the loss-of-power moment :-/
[ l.o.power is not huge .. but quite obvious ..
[ and with e.b. and fuel 'cooling tactics' employed .. ;-/ .. some power loss is restored

given .. parts replaced + scanner data + specific symptoms
i'm currently suspecting the hp.fuel pump .. as the root cause

i did read .. that one test for the suspect ..
be .. to pour some cold water over the hpfp ..
if it runs better as a result .. then it's faulty
[ article originated in a hot climate country .. down under ]
so .. i might try that 'test' ..
[ whilst being mindful of the nearby alternator ;-]

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'solved' be a ways off yet ..

a.t.b.
 
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whoohooo !! .. 60 mile journey / 2 stops for shopping n' dog walk
and NO power loss issues :)
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codes cleared before i left home
but yet to check if any fault codes were logged during the trip
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recent work done :
a while back .. i came across a post about a FL1/td4 that had logged the very same code as in my 1st post
and they'd written .. that after a turbo clean the fault code had not re-occured

so .. ..

after much thought about possible symptoms .. and possibly turbo related causes
and .. web research as to turbo vane mapping ..
i decided to replace the m.a.p. sensor .. and the turbo vacuum solenoid ..
[ both 15 year 'n 193k miles old ]
and check the actuator for movement ..
[ all related vac. hoses i'd previously replaced with silicone ones ]
'n today added some turbo cleaner to the fuel ..
[ the spray-into-the-intake cleaning procedure
[ not being too practical to do at the moment
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the missing ingredient .. for today's test .. be high ambient temps.
on the prev run .. when it lost power ..
after being parked up for 30min .. the i.a.t was 44c
today .. same time span .. the i.a.t. read 30c
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before i can report 'issue solved'
i'll be doing a few more test runs .. :cool:

a.t.b.
~ s ~
 
back to square one .. :-{{ .. lost power again
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yesterday .. added the 'digibooster 1'.. [ set to 'medium' ]
as a test only .. because i imagine it would put extra demand on the fuelling

5 miles into journey [same route as prev. tests] .. lost power ..
mild acceleration out of a dual-carriage roundabout .. like it were down 20bhp or so
i.at. was only about 20c .. at the time ..

continued for another 15 mile ..
stopped and switched 'off' .. [ bypassed ] .. the digibooster ..
i.a.t. was about 25c when i set off ..

ran fine for next 10 mile ..

parked up .. took dog for walk .. visited some shops
then .. removed the digibooster altogether ..
set off home .. i.a.t. now initially at 44c ..

lost power on first hill .. and was underpowered for rest of trip .. 30 mile
[ as if it were 90bhp .. not 110 bhp ]
it would get up to 65mph + .. but took a longer time to do so ..

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the cheapest route i can go now .. be to replace the lp.pump and fuel filter
[ as i've got o.e.m. replacements @ home ]
but .. both were replaced .. with o.e.m. items only 12k miles ago ..

issue symptoms do not match up with a potentially ''clogged fuel filter'' ..
but i do wonder if the current lp.pump is ok. .. or intermittently not ok ..
[ lp.pump is relatively quiet at startup .. can't hear it when engine be running ]

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i've only live-monitored the low pressure on one test trip
'n that were the trip when it ran fine .. ;-/
[ edited ]
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regarding trying to diagnose with live readings ..
the main problem be the intermittent nature of the issue
i mean .. i'd have to purposely trigger the low-power issue ..
whilst reading the data ..

[ to recap .. fault code be ..
[ P1190 Governor / fuel plausibility deviation at high speed
which seems to give plenty of drivers a headache n' empty wallet in trying to figure out the cause
i.e. going by internet posts
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if it ain't the low-pressure system ..
or the turbo vanes sticking ..
only one thing left .. the hp.pump :-[[

`````
`s`
 
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' P1190 Governor / fuel plausibility deviation at high speed ' .. fault ..

Update : 19th august
[ in short .. it be running well .. at the moment ..
[ and managed to find info re. the 'governor' text

on the 10th .. thought i'd replace the old [original] crank. sensor
as issue symptoms can be similar .. evidently .. ;-/

that .. did not fix the issue ..
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onwards ..
1 x 60 mile trip .. one p1190 triggered / power loss
next run same route .. one p1190 triggered / power loss
both times .. pulled over .. engine idling .. cleared code
engine immediately returns to behaving itself .. for rest of the journey

thinking in terms of a weakened hp.pump as the possible cause ..
and my go-pedal 'action' just when the power loss ocurred ..
.. and .. at what rpm
[ p1190 would occur just after a gear up change ]

i decided to alter my driving style somewhat ..
[ well due to the diff. between 'ron-box' fueling .. and 'stock'
[ one more or less has to anyway
and .. mix some ZX1 and 2-stroke 'n add that to a full fuel tank

two test runs over same route .. no issues .. climbed the hills as it should ..
for today's test .. refitted the Digibooster .. set to 'M' [medium rpm range]
engine ran just fine ;-]] ..

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anyhowz ..
although .. i suspect the hp.pump
[ the turbo-vanes theory didn't really add up
[ and info re. 'governor' .. in short .. came up with 'weak hp.pump'
the root-cause remains 'unsolved'

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have come to prefer my current setup now

ron-box fueling 'off' .. maf compensation 'on'
digibooster set to 'm'
egr delete + modded air intake + no foam surround on air-filter
[ it's quite similar to driving with a ron-box fueling set at '2' or '7' .. all in all
[ and engine oil ain't turning black so quick either ..

edit 20th august :
after another test run ..
digibooster set to 'L' .. [ low rpm ] .. feels better :cool:

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couple of links that help understand what does what .. inside the hp.fuel pump

this describes how it works [ bosch cp1 pump ]
note: this one is fitted with a cylinder disabler device
i.e. "deactivator of the 3rd piston of the high pressure fuel pump."
[ so ignore re. the td4 hippo ]
https://dispatchexpertscudo.org.uk/dw10highpressurepump.php

this be a linked exploded view :
https://injectionpumps.co.uk/interactive/interactive-bosch-CP1-parts-diagram.htm

and a simplified diagram :
https://www.researchgate.net/public...-CP1-type-1-Drive-shaft-2-eccentric-cam-3.png

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atb
`s`
 
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update .. 16th september 2021 .. :

ok .. going by the theory that the hp.pump were messing up .. related to ambient heat ..
i decided to keep driving any distance .. to ambient temps. 20c and below ..

engine ran fine for 350+ miles ..
could not fault its' performance at all ..

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tuesday 14th sept. .. 16c ambient temps.

incurred the p1190 power-loss again .. :-[

so .. as i had a new genuine 'bosch' rail sensor handy
[ bought as a spare some time ago ]
thought .. what if fitted rail sensor were screwing up
but .. for some reason .. not triggering a rail-sensor-specific fault code

decided i may as well replace it .. can't do no harm .. easy job to do ..

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.. sensor replaced according to fitting instructions
[ no washer needed according to serial number on new sensor ]

all torqued up according to bosch specs
[ that differ from the original factory fitted sensor .. going by the haynes manual ]

ran motor and checked for leaks ..

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test drive tomorrow ..

`````
a.t.b.
`s`
 
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Good luck `S`. ;)

cheers :D
but .. i think said luck was intercepted .. and nicked

in short .. replacing the fuel rail sensor did not fix the issue
[ will expand on this later ..
[ the shortest description i can give for now .. be ..
[ it would be like driving with a .. slow-to-react .. hp.pump regulator

the hp.pump remains as the chief suspect ..
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.. and in other news today :

my dash cam died .. resuscitation attempts failed .. funeral at weekend

my i-phone went weird on me .. for the first time ever ..
was composing a text msg. and the 'keyboard' refused to give me the characters i wanted
then suddenly it did .. then again did not ..

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fer todays compensation ..
it's 'chinese' followed by haagen-dass
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~ s ~
 
now solved 'n repaired ..
issue were a faulty high-pressure fuel pump
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

( EDIT to add ) ..

probable initial cause:

water in fuel ..
[ i.e. going by what i saw in the sedimenter ]
leading to .. in theory .. worn piston / bores in the hp.pump
making the pump inefficient / weak ..

probably hastened by having the ron-box on 10
'n being a bit heavy on the go-pedal for those two days
~~~~~~~~~~~~~

the code :

" P1190 Governor / fuel plausibility deviation at high speed "
a.f.a.i.k. .. 'governor' refers to the ecu doing its 'computing' ..

' fuel plausibility deviation ' .. be that ..
for a given driver demand on the go pedal ..
the ecu reports .. ' not-enough-fuel-pressure ' ..
and triggers limp-mode ..

i also suspect that the ecu cuts out one of the 'injections'
therefore causing diesel knock to be evident ..
[ in that there are two fuel injections per cycle ..
[ to quieten diesel 'knock' ..

'limp mode' was mainly avoided by using higher rpm at gear-up changes
and .. increasing go-pedal pressure gradually .. no 'sudden' demands fer more fuel
should limp mode occur .. clearing the code whist driving worked fine ..
i.e. engine came out of limp mode instantly .
[ hp.pump rpm .. be two-thirds crankshaft rpm ]

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

build up of engine bay heat had the most detrimental effect ..
i.e. with regards to starting .. [ long crank times]
'n driving then incurring code-triggers-limp-mode

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no more ron-box fuelling 'on' for me ..
but .. i'll keep it for 'maf' compensation ..

[ btw .. if only using the maf switched 'on'
[ the fuel harness still needs to be connected
[ if not .. the maf-compensation does not work
[ and engine has 'eff-all power .. like a limp-mode ..

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just found out .. a remap for the td4/m47r ..
be available localy .. ;-]
i may give it a go .. far less stress on the hp.pump

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fin.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Merry Christmas All :)

`
 
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