TD4 Injector Removal

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AllanI

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High Peak, Derbyshire
I am in the process of trying to remove No1 injector. The workshop manual method isn't going to work as I can feel the ratchet twisting and can see where the torx part of the stud has started to twist. I don't want to risk shearing the studs so need to get the injector out another way. I'm leaving the area to soak in WD40 overnight before resuming the job tomorrow. Anyone done the job and how?
Thanks
Allan
 
Well tried the slide method. Either TD6 injectors are a lot stronger or different because all that has happened is the cap off the injector disintegrated. Not surprising really as it turned out to be mostly plastic. So now one immobile Freelander and wondering where I go from here.:mad:

Allan
 
Afraid it's bad news,

mine did this earlier in the year,
had a faultering tickover, otherwise ran ok

put it in for service at an independant LR specialist

2 stuck injectors - Nos 1 & 2

smash cam cover (plastic) - remove head and send off to specialist who removes injectors, then skims the head and pressure tests it.
Reassemble with 2 new injectors and gaskets etc.

Including the original £300 for the full service, the final bill was £2,250 :eek:


Wish I'd shot some injector cleaner through first :(
 
Not much further along really. I made up a puller which used M10 thread for the main bit and that broke in tensile last night when I tightened it up with no sign of the injector moving. I'm going to try a higher tensile strength fastener but at the moment it's looking like the head off method as mentioned above.
Allan
 
allan, have a look on this site they may be able to help
United Diesel Fuel Injectors Special Tools

i did start making an injector removal tool , it was based on extending the jacking studds (6mm thread i think) and pulling up on these using a strong back and studding , the studding was 12mm with the 6mm jacking studds screwed in to them, i never needed it in the end, as injector cleaner worked for me ,
good luck
 
john t said:
allan, have a look on this site they may be able to help
United Diesel Fuel Injectors Special Tools

i did start making an injector removal tool , it was based on extending the jacking studds (6mm thread i think) and pulling up on these using a strong back and studding , the studding was 12mm with the 6mm jacking studds screwed in to them, i never needed it in the end, as injector cleaner worked for me ,
good luck
Click to expand...

I imagine it took quite a strong dose of injector cleaner to put right injectors that appeared to need removal. I am never sure of the value of periodic use of such a cleaner so would like your comments. John.
 
john, the symptoms i had was,,,, on tickover it was only running on 3 cylnders ,making the engine rock really badly, acceleration was very poor, and lacked power at all speeds,and very smoky
after checking everything i could think of i traced it down to a blocked injector by pulling off the plug on each injector while it was ticking over ,i did try to remove the injector but only got so far berore i realised it was going to need a tool to jack it out , so i decided to give the cleaner a try

it took a full tank of fuel with a full dose of injector cleaner (500ml stp £15) before it eventually cleared, ,( i now use it on a regular basis small dose ) , i now realise that these injectors are so fine , its essential that they are kept clean, im even considering giving them the shock treatment on a 6 monthly basis , try a bottle , you will also notice increased acceleration and a livley engine
best of luck
 
john t said:
john, the symptoms i had was,,,, on tickover it was only running on 3 cylnders ,making the engine rock really badly, acceleration was very poor, and lacked power at all speeds,and very smoky
after checking everything i could think of i traced it down to a blocked injector by pulling off the plug on each injector while it was ticking over ,i did try to remove the injector but only got so far berore i realised it was going to need a tool to jack it out , so i decided to give the cleaner a try

it took a full tank of fuel with a full dose of injector cleaner (500ml stp £15) before it eventually cleared, ,( i now use it on a regular basis small dose ) , i now realise that these injectors are so fine , its essential that they are kept clean, im even considering giving them the shock treatment on a 6 monthly basis , try a bottle , you will also notice increased acceleration and a livley engine
best of luck
Click to expand...

Thats interesting and quite a recommendation for STP. I was already thinking along the lines you have decided on (In fact I bought some last week) and you have confirmed things. Thank you. John.
 
Well it's finally out. There are a couple of photos below but suffice to say it is one of the most miserable jobs I've ever done on a car. I ended up using a rotary file to reshape the top of the injector so as to be able to remove the c clamp and then extracted the puny studs from either side of the injector. I left it soaking in release fluid and using the tool I devised shown in the photos jacked it out bit by bit.
inj004.jpg

inj006.jpg

inj008.jpg

If anyone else is faced with this job I'd now advise them to sell the car as I so very nearly went down the smash the camcover route which would have cost a fortune. If I can be of help to anyone about this job please get in touch. Just got to put it back together now.
Regards
Allan
 
nice one earthling, like the tool yer made, proof indeed that even after 20,000 miles ya wont get them out easy and even penertration soaking is not gonna help as its the carbon build up is on the inside. . . . :)
 
Alan I'm having the same problem trying to remove number 2 injector on my TD4 freelander engine.My question is I have taken the 2 nuts of that hold the c clamp but can't get the studs out without them shearing. Do you have to remove the C clamp to remove the injector or will it pull out with the clamp on.
 
As you may be aware the theory is that the injector is jacked out by the C clamp using the 2 studs. This is usually impossible because the studs are made of jelly. If you can pull the injector out by another means the C clamp will come out with the injector. However the pillars of the injector extractor tool I made seated in the stud holes. Unless the C clamp is removed the studs cannot be extracted. I removed the C clamp by grinding the injector sides until the clamp could be taken off, this obviously destroys the injector for exchange purposes. The studs can now be removed. When you purchase a new injector you don't get a new C clamp or studs so preserve them. If this explanation hasn't clarified things please post again.

Allan
 
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