Freelander 1 Td4: Down-in-power: now MAF?

mbrokof · Jun 11, 2018

Hi All,

does anyone know the inner diameter of the air intake? The inlet on the left side (standing infront) kind of collapsed a bit on obe side and I was thinking if I could put in a metall maybe 0.5mm or less to support it fixed with a rivet or two.
Matthias

hd3 · Jun 11, 2018

does anyone know the inner diameter of the air intake? The inlet on the left side (standing infront) ..

my notes say 70 mm
in that it's the plastic-ducting unit outside measurement
~~~~~~~~
i.e. looking at notes written down when i did the intake mod
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

hd3 · Jun 11, 2018

just looked at the inner diameter of the plastic ducting ..
hard to measure accurately as there's some inner slopes ..
and two inner ridges either side ..
but looks to be 65 / 66 mm ..

the wall .. where the edges are ok ..
looks to be 2 mm thick ..

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

mbrokof · Jun 12, 2018

Thanks hd3. Found a slide gauge and measured id, then a metalworker measured with a 2nd one my one and gave me 63.5mm back, but they didn't have a pipe that size. Not sure what to do with now.

Thought to use a pipe inside with 25mm length and it with the rivets, but am not sure if it wouldn't take too much of the ID away and cold air as well which I think is the problem at the moment.

hd3 · Jun 12, 2018

The inlet on the left side (standing infront) kind of collapsed a bit on obe side

any chance of a pic of said issue ??
finding it a bit difficult to visualise the problem
i.e. what collapsed ..
[ be it the initial intake hose ?]
`````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````

mbrokof · Jun 13, 2018

Yes, here that part where the intake hose is fitted, there is a like a welding joint on the left if in front and that is a dent. Will take a proper picture later when home.

It's not pulling properly and seems to waste fuel, 160mi from full and a quarter of the tank is gone.

mbrokof · Jun 13, 2018

I just wondered if the change of the vac hose from the egr to the valve could have caused the lack of power, but on the other hand it started first after around miles which to me would point towards the air intake plastic heating up and then collapsing or denting.

mbrokof · Jun 13, 2018

hd3 said:
any chance of a pic of said issue ??
finding it a bit difficult to visualise the problem
i.e. what collapsed ..
[ be it the initial intake hose ?]
`````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````

here is a picture. It looks a bit better now as I try to shape the left skde again.

hd3 · Jun 13, 2018

i see what you mean ..

tbh: i can't see that it would cause any running issues
1) the flexible hose + fastening screw clip would surely create a seal

2) the air filter housing has at least 3 holes open to the engine bay
i think they're for getting to some bolts at the back of engine ..
( i thought they might have been there to drain off any water ingress )
plus on some .. like mine .. there's a bigger hole on the housing side ..
so unless those holes have been blocked .. there will be some hot engine bay air
getting in anyway ..

i blocked the holes off with suitable bolts .. as i noticed black spots on the air filter
that matched the position of said holes ..
( with the rest of the filter surface being comparatively clean )
simply cause the aim of the induction modification was .. in part ..
to introduce cold clean air into the intake ..
( the other being to accelerate the air flow thru the maf sensor )

the thing i noticed if the intake ducting soaked up engine bay heat ..
( vehicle static .. engine running .. hot sunny day ..
( or with engine being turned off but restarted before engine bay had cooled down
was that .. on moving off .. and for maybe they next 2 miles ..
the go-pedal response was a bit weak .. by comparison ..
until air flow thru the intercooler had cooled down ..

insulating the intake ducting solved that .. minor .. issue ..
( not 'minor' to me as i want as immediate response as possible
( at all times .. ambient air temps. and humidity permitting ..

the only thing now that effects mine .. is if .. the ambient air is really hot and humid
humidity being the main cause methinks ..
( or if the air filter is near it's change by mileage ..
( i use a 'scangaugeII' and can see air-intake temp change in real time

and as for mpg .. well in theory with a hot air intake temp
the ecu won't allow so much fuel to be injected
giving relatively sluggish performance .. but not using as much fuel on demand
as it would do with cold air

obviously ..
the above depending on that the maf and air-intake temp. sensors are working properly
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

can't imagine there'd be sufficient heat in the engine bay to cause that
plastic duct deformation ..
you could always do the 'intake-mod' .. makes even an untuned td4 drive better
( have tried it .. compared it .. by turning off my synergy2a and turbo controller
( however i still had to use the maf map as i've a pierburg maf fitted

you'd be quite welcome to have my plastic factory ducting as i don't need it
but i suspect i wouldn't make any difference ..

as for the egr unit .. see Arctic2's posts .. here :
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/are-all-egr-valves-the-same.327080/

( edited to add ) .. the minor deformation be nothing
compared to the relative flow restriction caused by the flat section
of the factory plastic ducting ..
yeah probably causes some minor turbulence .. maybe at higher flow rates ..
but think of the turbulence caused by the 90 deg. angle where
the ducting meets the air filter housing ..

i'd be looking elsewhere for any major / minor lack of performance
or 'intermitent-slight-slugishness' ..
( unless it were a race tuned engine where 10th seconds count ..
( which the td4 certainly aint

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

mbrokof · Jun 15, 2018

Thanks hd3.

I am not sure what else it could be as everything was running fine. My thinking is that the dent might cause a disturbance in the air flow as with egr where I think a mm less in diameter might cause quite some loss in power or better to say if it does and that's why so many blank it off then maybe it'll the same with the air induct.

Would the part be the one with number phd000170? I think the one part number I took from Microcat was wrong. I saw the above on mine I found some used ones and thought about testing it. If it's not going back to the performance I had before then I'd need to go ahead searching.

Fuel wasn't too bad the day before yesterday with 8l/100km, but the pulling is like a snail uphill.

Diesel consists from c-h and c-c molecules. If energetically you split the c-c ones in c and c these can attach with O molecules and therefore increase fuel efficiency meaning to burn at higher temperatures. I am wondering how that would work with the Synergy2, but as long as the lack isn't fixed on my one I wouldn't want to tedt it. Not sure if you would try it.

Nodge68 · Jun 15, 2018

hd3 said:
i think they're for getting to some bolts at the back of engine ..

The holes are to access the turbo mounting bolts. So a small leak in the pipe on the intake pipe won't make any difference to the engine.

mbrokof · Jun 16, 2018

Actually hd3,

it came my mind that the lack of power is a bit like last year when a bloke from a garage where it was for some checks installed the turbo boost solenoid and forgot to put one of the hoses on. Maybe I should check towards that direction as well.

hd3 · Jun 17, 2018

thing is ..
only you .. the driver .. will know exactly ..
what this lack of power is ..
compared to when it were running fine ..
could you sort of describe it ??
are there any other symptoms ?
like .. rough idle
excessive exhaust smoke ..
or anything else

as ar as that dent in the plastic ducting is concerned ..
could you apply some local heat .. gently ..
and reform it using a suitable tool ..
( just an idea )
i mean .. if you want to totally discount it in trying to solve the lack-of-power issue ..

the more i think of it .. that small dent just ain't enough of a restriction to cause
a noticeable lack of power in normal driving conditions ..
i think to notice its effect you'd need a rolling road and assorted measuring instruments
and to run the engine at full power ..
and with known and controlled ambient conditions ..

it came my mind that the lack of power is a bit like last year when a bloke from a garage where it was for some checks installed the turbo boost solenoid and forgot to put one of the hoses on. Maybe I should check towards that direction as well.

well .. yeah ..
a hose missing off that solenoid would certainly effect the power output .. for sure ..

i'd start with the basics
air and turbo solenoid filters : are they clean and dry ?
exhaust : is there any sign that the cat or silencer(s) are disintegrating inside
and causing an exhaust flow restriction ?
fuel: is there any sign that the l.p. pump is not up to its job
e.g. are the rpm hitting a brick wall when you put your foot down
.. is the fuel filter near its change by date ? ..
sensors: is the maf sensor working properly ..
same for the air-intake temp sensor ..
same for the map sensor ..
are the fuel rail pressure sensor plug contacts squeaky clean
egr valve : is it working properly ( or have you blocked it off .. or similar )
drive train: is the vcu in good order .. are the wheels free of any brake drag ..
are the tyres in good order ..
turbo: is the solenoid working as it should ( not sticking ) ..
is the turbo vane actuating arm not sticking ..
are the turbo hoses free of any leaks
vacuum hoses: are they free of any leaks ..

has the fuel sedimenter been drained within the last year
any sign of water or diesel bug
are you using fuel from a reliable source quality wise

has the engine been remapped
are u using a tuning box

( i've probably missed something .. but its late .. and i'm somewhat tired )

try and describe this loss-of-power that you experience ..
maybe .. we the forum members can narrow down the possibilities ..

could be that a diagnostic check would show up the issue ..

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
in general for common internal combustion engines:
hot humid days .. performance down
cold dry days .. performance improves
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

mbrokof · Jun 19, 2018

hd3 said:
thing is ..

only you .. the driver .. will know exactly .. see below parapraph
what this lack of power is .. - see below parapraph
compared to when it were running fine ..
could you sort of describe it ??
are there any other symptoms ? - my wife thought the engine got louder than before.
like .. rough idle - not sure what you mean by that, see below, next paragraph.
excessive exhaust smoke .. - not really, was standing behind the car the other and didn‘t even smell anything.
or anything else

After the improvement of the diesel via that energy metall there was an increase in power meaning the accelerator pedal was more responsive and easier to push down with almost no need to put it down. Even uphill the power was very good so that my wife could drive it again which changed last week on the motorway after I changed the air intake hose and also vac hose to the egr. Not immediately after I changed it, but the way in Belgium after the ferry. Just remembered that I took that outer fabric of the air filter as a bloke mentioned on yt in order to give it a bit more air, not sure if that is a problem. It only works uphill with a kickdown to properly accelerate at the moment. There is a strange noise though, when standing at a traffic light. Usually I put in into N-position. It‘s not always, if you mean that with rough idle.

as ar as that dent in the plastic ducting is concerned ..
could you apply some local heat .. gently ..
and reform it using a suitable tool ..
( just an idea )
i mean .. if you want to totally discount it in trying to solve the lack-of-power issue .. - I tried toreform it back and to the look on the picture it worked, but not really further. Yes, I think I might do it, just to make sure it‘s not the problem or part of it.

the more i think of it .. that small dent just ain't enough of a restriction to cause
a noticeable lack of power in normal driving conditions ..
i think to notice its effect you'd need a rolling road and assorted measuring instruments
and to run the engine at full power ..
and with known and controlled ambient conditions .. talked to LR in DE yesterday and he said maybe one of the turbo hoses might leak, that would often be a problem with them, but I have the silicone ones on, will check the clamps for the intercooler hose, just to make sure.

well .. yeah ..
a hose missing off that solenoid would certainly effect the power output .. for sure .. - checked it and all looks still good, except wondering if the black-blueish hose should be changed or it was changed in the garage in Reading end of 2014.

i'd start with the basics
air and turbo solenoid filters : are they clean and dry ? air filter I blew through with a compressor to test. It helped a bit, might be better to change, have one laying around. The turbo vent filter I changed about in Sep last year and still looks clean and dry while the air filter doesn‘t look that clean anymore, even though it wasn‘t that long ago that I changed it. Definitely not 24k miles as mentioned in Haynes. There is the left rear bolt of the housing missing, which I ordered, but couldn’t build in as something else seems missing. Not sure if the dust comes from that and not sure how to fix it, to be honest.

exhaust : is there any sign that the cat or silencer(s) are disintegrating inside,
and causing an exhaust flow restriction ? Not that I could see or recognize off, still blowing put like usual.
fuel: is there any sign that the l.p. pump is not up to its job
e.g. are the rpm hitting a brick wall when you put your foot down, will test that, guess better when engine is properly war, still at around 90mi there was a lack from time to time

.. is the fuel filter near its change by date ? .. That might be close by, yes, have new one already here.

sensors: is the maf sensor working properly .. I cleaned it in Sep last year, hope it does. How could I check or just to clean again?

same for the air-intake temp sensor .. How could I check that? Where is it located?

same for the map sensor .. I cleaned it two weeks ago a bit with a cloth, how could I clean that properly? Put it into petrol or something like that?

are the fuel rail pressure sensor plug contacts squeaky clean - will check,

egr valve : is it working properly ( or have you blocked it off .. or similar ) - had a pic in another thread the other day to ask if it needs cleaning andd to look still fine.

drive train: is the vcu in good order .. are the wheels free of any brake drag .. - vcu damper and bearings were changed last year and the mechanic said, vcu looked fine still

are the tyres in good order .. yep, just got new tyres, also didn‘t help

turbo: is the solenoid working as it should ( not sticking ) .. you mean the turbo boost? had it changed last July

is the turbo vane actuating arm not sticking .. where would that be? Would need to check if I can find it.

are the turbo hoses free of any leaks - the turbo hoses were changed end of 2014 due to leaks and then the car stood due to gearbox issues till last year.

vacuum hoses: are they free of any leaks .. the one from the egr I changed, which else to check? All of here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-vaccuum-pipe-diagram-request-again-solved.287163/ ? The invoice from rovertune says replace turbo boost pressure pipe and variable turbo nozzle boost pipe hose

has the fuel sedimenter been drained within the last year - not sure about that, does the 02 TD4 has that, it says in the manual from what I found only 03 onwards?

any sign of water or diesel bug

are you using fuel from a reliable source quality wise - Couldn’t say I would, sometimes Gulf, Tesco, sometimes Shell or Aral, depends on where I am.

has the engine been remapped - No

are u using a tuning box - No, not yet

( i've probably missed something .. but its late .. and i'm somewhat tired ) no problem, thanks a lot for that.

try and describe this loss-of-power that you experience .. Apart from the above I am not sure what else, except it‘s just not responsive and need to put
it way further down than before and it‘s super easy to put/push it down with not really a response. My knee hurt on the way back from Germany compared to a more relaxed cruising before.
maybe .. we the forum members can narrow down the possibilities ..
could be that a diagnostic check would show up the issue ..

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

in general for common internal combustion engines:

hot humid days .. performance down

cold dry days .. performance improves

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Thanks hd3, for those infos. I put the answers in, in Italic.

hd3 · Jun 19, 2018

it's an 02 td4 automatic ?
( maybe post that info in your profile for future reference .. just a suggestion )
so .. fuel pump in engine bay and lift pump inside the fuel tank ?

~~~~~~~~~~~~

I put the answers in, in Italic.

the quote is All italics

anyhowz .. here it reformatted so others can see your answers
in case they have some suggestions

~~~~~~~~~

re: post no.13 .. your answers in blue :

~~~~~~~~

only you .. the driver .. will know exactly ..
see below parapraph

what this lack of power is .. -
see below parapraph

compared to when it were running fine .. could you sort of describe it ??
are there any other symptoms ..
my wife thought the engine got louder than before.

like .. rough idle -
not sure what you mean by that, see below, next paragraph.

excessive exhaust smoke ..
not really, was standing behind the car the other and didn‘t even smell anything.

After the improvement of the diesel via that energy metall there was an increase in power meaning the accelerator pedal was more responsive and easier to push down with almost no need to put it down. Even uphill the power was very good so that my wife could drive it again which changed last week on the motorway after I changed the air intake hose and also vac hose to the egr. Not immediately after I changed it, but the way in Belgium after the ferry. Just remembered that I took that outer fabric of the air filter as a bloke mentioned on yt in order to give it a bit more air, not sure if that is a problem. It only works uphill with a kickdown to properly accelerate at the moment. There is a strange noise though, when standing at a traffic light. Usually I put in into N-position. It‘s not always, if you mean that with rough idle.

talked to LR in DE yesterday and he said maybe one of the turbo hoses might leak, that would often be a problem with them, but I have the silicone ones on, will check the clamps for the intercooler hose, just to make sure.

a hose missing off that solenoid would certainly effect the power output
checked it and all looks still good, except wondering if the black-blueish hose should be changed or it was changed in the garage in Reading end of 2014

air and turbo solenoid filters : are they clean and dry ?
air filter I blew through with a compressor to test. It helped a bit, might be better to change, have one laying around. The turbo vent filter I changed about in Sep last year and still looks clean and dry while the air filter doesn‘t look that clean anymore, even though it wasn‘t that long ago that I changed it. Definitely not 24k miles as mentioned in Haynes. There is the left rear bolt of the housing missing, which I ordered, but couldn’t build in as something else seems missing. Not sure if the dust comes from that and not sure how to fix it, to be honest.

exhaust : is there any sign that the cat or silencer(s) are disintegrating inside,
and causing an exhaust flow restriction ?
Not that I could see or recognize off, still blowing put like usual.

fuel: is there any sign that the l.p. pump is not up to its job
e.g. are the rpm hitting a brick wall when you put your foot down,
will test that, guess better when engine is properly war, still at around 90mi there was a lack from time to time

is the fuel filter near its change by date ?
That might be close by, yes, have new one already here.

sensors: is the maf sensor working properly
I cleaned it in Sep last year, hope it does. How could I check or just to clean again?

same for the air-intake temp sensor
How could I check that? Where is it located?

same for the map sensor
I cleaned it two weeks ago a bit with a cloth, how could I clean that properly? Put it into petrol or something like that?

are the fuel rail pressure sensor plug contacts squeaky clean
will check,

egr valve : is it working properly ( or have you blocked it off .. or similar )
had a pic in another thread the other day to ask if it needs cleaning andd to look still fine.

drive train: is the vcu in good order .. are the wheels free of any brake drag ..
vcu damper and bearings were changed last year and the mechanic said, vcu looked fine still

are the tyres in good order
yep, just got new tyres, also didn‘t help

turbo: is the solenoid working as it should ( not sticking )
you mean the turbo boost? had it changed last July

is the turbo vane actuating arm not sticking
where would that be? Would need to check if I can find it.

are the turbo hoses free of any leaks
the turbo hoses were changed end of 2014 due to leaks and then the car stood due to gearbox issues till last year.

vacuum hoses: are they free of any leaks
the one from the egr I changed, which else to check? All of here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/td4-vaccuum-pipe-diagram-request-again-solved.287163/ ? The invoice from rovertune says replace turbo boost pressure pipe and variable turbo nozzle boost pipe hose

has the fuel sedimenter been drained within the last year
not sure about that, does the 02 TD4 has that, it says in the manual from what I found only 03 onwards?

are you using fuel from a reliable source quality wise
Couldn’t say I would, sometimes Gulf, Tesco, sometimes Shell or Aral, depends on where I am.

has the engine been remapped -
No
are u using a tuning box -
No, not yet

try and describe this loss-of-power that you experience
Apart from the above I am not sure what else, except it‘s just not responsive and need to put
it way further down than before and it‘s super easy to put/push it down with not really a response. My knee hurt on the way back from Germany compared to a more relaxed cruising before.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

hd3 · Jun 20, 2018

same for the air-intake temp sensor
How could I check that? Where is it located?

i think on an 02 year it's part of the maf sensor circuitry
later years have a separate sensor on the intercooler hose

same for the map sensor
I cleaned it two weeks ago a bit with a cloth, how could I clean that properly? Put it into petrol or something like that?

i think some folk use a carb. cleaner spray
i've not needed to do it myself as i've an egr delete unit fitted
so baked-on-gunk unlikely to form inside the manifold and inside the map sensor
the important thing is not to poke any sharp object into the map sensor
as that's likely to break it ..

air filter I blew through with a compressor to test. It helped a bit, might be better to change, have one laying around.

a dirty air-filter will cause a lack of engine response .. simply as it inhibits airflow
across the maf sensor ..
i.e. less airflow across that sensor = lower sensor signal to the ecu ..
which in turn = less permission from the ecu when the driver demands more fuel ( go-pedal)

Even uphill the power was very good so that my wife could drive it again which changed last week on the motorway after I changed the air intake hose and also vac hose to the egr. Not immediately after I changed it, but the way in Belgium after the ferry.

might be a clue in there ..
just a theory .. but maybe the egr wasn't working as it were designed to do before you changed
the vac hose .. with new vac hose and egr working .. more exhaust feeding via egr into the intake manifold .. giving less engine response and added possibility for the map sensor to gunk up ..
don't know .. just a wild guess ..

my personal way of looking at the egr device .. is to get rid of it altogether ..
then if needed .. refit it for the new mot if needed .. as ..
it's only 4 small bolts and a vacuum hose to mess with ..
15-20 min work

maybe other have some ideas to suggest ( so bumping this thread

.. )
be cool if the thread heading could be changed .. maybe more folk would read it
and address a down-in-power issue rather than a discussion about the intake duct diameter

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

mbrokof · Jun 21, 2018

Thanks and sorry for the Italic, formatted it twice, once on the iPad and once in here after copying when everything was gone.
Found something odd yesterday morning when someone asked for the MAP which was a loose wire hanging down, not sure if I forgot It altogether after the cleaning, but remember saying to my wife that I needed to fit it properly. It improved somehow, but still something odd. It has that kind of lock likely me. Sorry about that. The interesting thing which came out was that I took a photo on Sunday of the egr which looked really dirty in that short period.
The air filter I tried to change, but the new one from Mahle seems to be to big, even that it's Lx823 like the old one. Couldn't get it properly into the housing as the part with the open end doesn't fit on.
Will think about the egr to remove it and will check the rest.
Definitely I'll have a look into the Synergy2 once that is betterand fixed.
My wife took the car this morning and mentioned it seems to be better again, but still was just a short bit to speed up, so wasn't sure. I've learned that it's not good to forget putting plugs in. Sorry again!

mbrokof · Jun 22, 2018

Yesterday was pretty rubbish driving today seemed better, maybe it’s just me, but pull better and is gearing softer again. Need to check on the motorway I guess to see a real difference, but will go through the rest on your list as well, first airfilter...
Rev’ed it up to 4500 w/o problems the other day when warm.
Would you know where the air temp sensor is on that 02 model? Couldn‘t locate it yet, and it‘s not like on the facelift.
Thanks a lot hd3.

hd3 · Jun 22, 2018

The air filter I tried to change, but the new one from Mahle seems to be to big, even that it's Lx823 like the old one. Couldn't get it properly into the housing as the part with the open end doesn't fit on.

persist ..

i know sometimes it can be a pain to fit them
twisting a tad sometimes helps

Would you know where the air temp sensor is on that 02 model? Couldn‘t locate it yet, and it‘s not like on the facelift.

i think on an 02 year it's part of the maf sensor circuitry
later years have a separate sensor on the intercooler hose

Rev’ed it up to 4500 w/o problems the other day when warm.

so fuel pumps and filter ok ..
4500rpm ? .. taking it the limit huh

mine hardly ever sees more than 3000rpm .. have never felt easy revving a diesel ..
( 2700 in 5th .. be 70mph on mine .. a tad larger tyres than standard )

glad it's running a bit better for you ..

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Nodge68 · Jun 22, 2018

hd3 said:
mine hardly ever sees more than 3000rpm .. have never felt easy revving a diesel ..
( 2700 in 5th .. be 70mph on mine

The TD4 isn't a revy engine. It's got torque but that's at the expense of top end RPM. I don't bother revving mine above 3.5K RPM, as it's better in the higher gear.

Freelander 1 Td4: Down-in-power: now MAF?

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Attachments

Active Member

Active Member

Attachments

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Active Member

Active Member

Well-Known Member

Well-Known Member

Similar threads