TD4 - Difficult to start and cutting out problems

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Blue407

New Member
Posts
119
As requested here is the full symptoms and run down of my problems:-

Facelift TD4 (Early 2004) Sport, owned it for around 9 months. When first purchased it there was an old Synergy unit fitted, vehicle used to idle poorly. I had a basic service at local famliy garage I usually use and then changed the air filter and PCV with a BMW part myself.
After some reading on here I decided that the MAF had failed so organised a Synergy upgrade with Pierburg MAF from RoverRon.
Vehicle was running much better after that.

After reading numerous posts on here I decided to get a EGR bypass kit which I duly fitted, cleaning out the air manifold and MAP at the same time.

We went on a weekend away and used a whole tank of fuel averaging just over 41 MPG, so I was happy it was running well. (In North Wales, so no motorways)

Around 4 months ago we started having very intermittent problems with it just cutting out, usually a few mins after it was started. (Happened around 4 times) Would restart immediately.
A couple of weeks later the High pressure fuel pump started ****ing out diesel everywhere so we had to get the vehicle recovered and had it replaced - £600 bill!
We hoped the cutting out was solved, but it still happened a couple more times. This time it was one going onto a roundabout and once down some backlanes - My partner was NOT impressed seeing as its her car and she was driving it!

I duly read up on the problem on here and decided to change the rear fuel filter (in the wheel arch) and fit the Land Rover modified loom for the fuel rail pressure sensor. Changed the small air filter that's free to air as well. Also double checked all the Synergy connections and cleaned up the contacts on the pressure sensor (They were manky). I used some special grease/gel from Maplins in the connections to keep water and moisture out.
Though it was ok for a week or so, then cut out on me again!

Around two weeks ago, on a Tuesday morning we had problems trying to get it to start. It just would not catch even though appeared to crank ok.
Called out recovery guy and he got it started with Faststart and suggested I let it warm up for 10 mins before going anywhere. His thoughts were that there is a slight air leak in the fuel system and it filled up with air. Suggested i get it pressured tested.

Wednesday morning I went out early to get it started, decided to switch off the tuning module part of the Synergy and it started first turn of the key and idled quite happily. I ran it for 5 mins then went back indoors to have breakfast etc.
25 mins later started again straight away and idled for 2-3 mins, then started to struggle and then just cut out. I have a video on my phone of this, I can probably get it on Youtube if it would help?

It would not restart until I used some FastStart, let it heat right up and then took it to work (8 miles away) It seems to smoke very heavily after cutting out problem occurs.

I have been into a Land Rover specialists on the industrial estate where I work, but they have been snowed under with work and couldn't look at it for the first couple of days.
I decided to disconnect the MAF to eliminate it from the problem. Ran ok without it for 2 days and then last Friday it cut out on me 10mins into my journey to work, engine was nice and warm and I was driving steadily along at 50mph in 5th, straight’ish flat road so no undue load on engine. Engine warning light came on this time, which it hadn't before
Managed to get it going but stopped again 300yards further up on a bend!
Had to resort to faststart to get it going again.

L/R specialist checked error codes and said there were loads probably going back years, so they cleared it out and said run it for the weekend and see what happens.
On Sunday I changed the intercooler hoses (it has the temp sensor inline which I re-used) I also checked and cleaned the MAF and MAP with contact cleaner.
Couldn't start the vehicle, cranked and almost caught but ended up flattening the battery :( Charged it up for a couple of hours.

While leaving the key in 2nd position I could hear the rear fuel pump running but because the bonnet was up I could also hear a hissing noise, further investigation - it seemed to come from near the alternator. It stopped after a minute or so and came back as soon as I switched the ignition off and back on. I presume this can't be a leak on the intercooler pipe I replaced because the engine was not running so no pressure there?
Maybe the fuel running through the high pressure pump as its self-priming? But definitely sounded more like air than fuel....

Finally got it going with faststart again!
Let it warm up and took it for a run, got up to 70 on the dual carriageway with no problems then dropped down to 50 along the single lane road and then it just suddenly died on me! Was a flat bit of road with no particular load on the engine, was in 5th gear just tootling along.
There was a sudden loss of power, engine seemed to still be going so I dipped the clutch and pressed the accelerator pedal but nothing...
Rev's dropped down and engine stopped completely and I had to pull up onto the verge to avoid traffic.
Managed to get it started after a few attempts with some faststart - not easy spraying into pipe while reaching arm through window to crank car and dodging speeding cars!

Once started decided while it was running to take it straight to garage near work and leave it for Monday. Luckily it didn't cut out on me again.

I've now dropped the keys into them, hopefully they will have time to look at the error codes today and have some ideas as to cause.

I'm not sure if the starting and cutting out problems are related or different.

Additional Info:-
One glowplug terminal has snapped off, so I'm down to 3. It’s been like that since before I purchased the vehicle and until recently it’s not caused a problem as its started first time every time.
I don't burn much engine oil.
Vehicle stops immediately you switch off, no running on.
I don't know if the extra module on the back of the high pressure fuel pump was changed with it or not - will ask garage but I bet they don't remember.

I have been trying to fix this myself, getting very frustrated in the process. As the misses says, I'm not a motor mechanic, but I don't like giving up on things!
It’s in the garage, but they are really busy so don't know how long it will be before they can look at it properly - also can't afford any big bills.
 
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well blue 407 thats the best account of a problem i have seen on here , plenty of detail to make a diagnosis,

i have had a very similar problem which has taken me months to trace, and although not quite as bad as yours , mine td4 would always start but the idleing was very erratic , and then occasinaly would idle perfectly,

ok straight to the problem ,,, i found that i had a poor connection on my synergy unit at the high pressure fuel sensor connector,
my solution was to cut off the connectors on the synergy unt,
use the origanal connector and cut the 3 wires, then using 2 x 3 way connection blocks reconect the synergy unit ,
(make a note of all connections before you start )
i now have a td4 that runs and idles perfectly, and at little cost

i hope this helps

john t
 
well blue 407 thats the best account of a problem i have seen on here , plenty of detail to make a diagnosis,

i have had a very similar problem which has taken me months to trace, and although not quite as bad as yours , mine td4 would always start but the idleing was very erratic , and then occasinaly would idle perfectly,

ok straight to the problem ,,, i found that i had a poor connection on my synergy unit at the high pressure fuel sensor connector,
my solution was to cut off the connectors on the synergy unt,
use the origanal connector and cut the 3 wires, then using 2 x 3 way connection blocks reconect the synergy unit ,
(make a note of all connections before you start )
i now have a td4 that runs and idles perfectly, and at little cost

i hope this helps

john t

Thanks for the comments John. :)

You had a problem with the Synergy unit wire that went into the fuel pressure sensor, or the original wire that now goes into the Synergy plug?
Just trying to get clarification.
Was it a dodgy connection, damaged plug, dirt etc?
 
the problem was the synergy unit connector, connection to the fuel pressure sensor (almost imposible to test while it is connected to the fuel rail sensor),

(poorly made connector)

if you do as i did , you will at least elimanate a potential problem , (will only take 30 mins to do )
 
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Reading your account it's difficult to say 100% whether it's an electrical issue or fuel pressure/delivery.

I agree with the need to re-check the rail sensor connection. It would of been worth fiddling with this when the non start occurred rather than going straight for the use of the easystart.

The one problem with using the pierburg Maf is the Synergy can't be removed to eliminate it completely.

The fact that it restarts with easystart cast some doubt over the electrical theory unless perhaps the additional fuel from the easystart is compensating for an underfuel due to rail sensor signal at cranking

You don't state the mileage.

Would of been so useful to have the code from the triggered Mil

It also would be worth doing an injector leak test during cranking just in case there is more than one cause of your troubles, however unlikely.
Re the cutting out......... check fuel pick up strainer and the tank contents for sludge.

I guess if it's in the garage now there is not much to be done until they report back to you. Let us know what they say.....
 
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Thanks guys.

I've just spoken to the guys that installed the replacement high pressure fuel pump last year, it was a reconditioned unit will all of the bits attached (including the module that is part of it)

I suspect changing the fuel pressure sensor will be the next thing, garage says I should really have done that with the new loom - as per Land Rover bulletin....

They cleared the error log so I don't know what the MIL brought up....
Although hopefully there are some new errors logged now after my problems yesterday. My generic ELM323 did not show any errors, but hopefully there's will!

@ John - what symptoms were you getting?
 
Depending what the garage says, I am sorely tempted to try replacing the fuel pressure sensor and disconenct the Synergy and MAF. Then see how it behaves for a few days!

Bit of a shame the Synergy units dont come with an LED to indicate status.
 
Yes you might have to bite the bullet and change the rail sensor. If it stops on you again try and have a fiddle with that before touching anything else. If it then starts at least you'll be confirming that that's the issue.

The ecu can't fuel the engine correctly without an accurate and reliable signal from it.
 
yes, I think so too. Also concerned about battery now, and whether that's contributing to the problem!
 
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If you have the new sensor fitted, make sure that the new wiring goes direct to the ECU and are not spliced into existing wiring. Mains dealer did'nt do this and I had a load of problems until it was done.
 
If you have the new sensor fitted, make sure that the new wiring goes direct to the ECU and are not spliced into existing wiring. Mains dealer did'nt do this and I had a load of problems until it was done.

I've already done the new wiring myself, straight back into the ECU plugs.
Why on earth would you splice it back into existing loom if the existing loom is know to be faulty? LMAO
 
Ive just read your battery thread. It's normal for a battery to read approx 12.6v fully charged.
This will drop to around 10v during cold cranking but there is room for scope depending on variations in load and battery temperature.
Your reading of 9.6v cranking just before the battery died seems OK to me assuming it was higher at earlier cranking attempts.
Your charging volts is correct.
If the engine fires up as it should it should be almost instant with very little cranking.
Critical sensors have a deliberate 5v supply to allow for battery voltage drop.

Sorry I can't advise on a supplier for the sensor, I would only do as you are and shop around/google.
 
eeerrrrrrrrr wouldn't like to say, only ever used dealer parts. Is there a huge difference in price?
 
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