Series 3 Sunny day pic and a steering clunk question

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Speedy6111

Active Member
Posts
79
Location
Uk
Hi All,
Quite new to the forum and had my first Landy (S3 88”) for less than a year. Finally took the hard top off due to the amazing weather here in the UK - loving it! So, a pic.

Also: On right hand turns I sometimes hear/feel a loud clunk from somewhere front right. It seems to be a combination of steering and suspension together, and more frequent if bumpy. Therefore I wonder if something is rubbing under suspension movement?
I’ve had a look at suspension bushings and springs and can’t see anything obvious. That said I’m new to this, so would appreciate any suggestions - starting with obvious and basic (!)

Thanks!

1E9D768C-2F40-4D68-B627-E7BC64F4782C.jpeg
 
Get someone to waggle the steering back and fore [this should be quit forceful,a two arm job] while you look for movement in spring shackles,axle U bolts, swivel pins, track rod joints.Side movement of a spring in the shackle is often the cause of an intermittent clonk.
 
@Colthebrummie @tottot - thank you both.

I’ve had a look and tightened shackle very slightly, but the U bolts accepted quite a lot of nipping up. I’ll test tomorrow once rain stops and see if it’s helped.
 
I thought about one too but have decided against, if it's that nice, take the whole roof off, otherwise use a full tilt which gives you pretty good flexibility anyway. Horses for courses, of course.

Yeah, I might have another look at going roofless next week, looks like fun!
 
I thought about one too but have decided against, if it's that nice, take the whole roof off, otherwise use a full tilt which gives you pretty good flexibility anyway. Horses for courses, of course.

Yeah, I might have another look at going roofless next week, looks like fun!

It’s tricky isn’t it? I’ve spent a long time debating the pros and cons. My S3 is hardtop, and is pretty well sealed in bad weather (not perfect, but better than some from what I’ve read). Hardtop provides security, has full rear door and keeps the wind out.

A full tilt and stick set ends up being about £750-800 new. I do like the way they look, and the idea of rolling up the sides and back is fun. But there is still a bit of work to get it completely off.

So my thinking is: a bikini top is much, much cheaper, can be whipped on and off pretty easily (and stored in the truck), and gives flexibility in conjunction with the door tops. Effectively can go from completely topless to a mostly enclosed cab. Still got full hard top for winter. And I like how they look.

If it were possible to do full tilt + sticks for less I might consider it, but I’ve not found anything second hand after months of keeping an eye out.
 
If it were possible to do full tilt + sticks for less I might consider it, but I’ve not found anything second hand after months of keeping an eye out.

Unless you get lucky I don't think it is worth getting it second hand. I spent about 12months gathering all of the parts that I needed, and sill had to buy a couple of the brackets new. In the end I spend about £500 and ended up with a canvas that I had repaired and only lasted two years. When you then add the cost of the new replacement canvas I have now spent the the same as buying the kit new in the first place.
 
Unless you get lucky I don't think it is worth getting it second hand. I spent about 12months gathering all of the parts that I needed, and sill had to buy a couple of the brackets new. In the end I spend about £500 and ended up with a canvas that I had repaired and only lasted two years. When you then add the cost of the new replacement canvas I have now spent the the same as buying the kit new in the first place.

Thanks for that. I guessed that might be the case. I’d heard stories of shrunk or moudly canvas and corroded parts, so I was wary even before your comment.

I’m going to try the bikini top and see how it goes. Worst case I can resell and will at least have had the experience.
 
Thanks for that. I guessed that might be the case. I’d heard stories of shrunk or moudly canvas and corroded parts, so I was wary even before your comment.

I’m going to try the bikini top and see how it goes. Worst case I can resell and will at least have had the experience.

To fit a bikini top you need most of the parts for a full soft top. The only parts the bikni top does not use are the rear hoops which are the easiest and cheapest parts to find. You will still require the door surrounds and shark tooth rail for the windscreen, and associated brackets.
 
To fit a bikini top you need most of the parts for a full soft top. The only parts the bikni top does not use are the rear hoops which are the easiest and cheapest parts to find. You will still require the door surrounds and shark tooth rail for the windscreen, and associated brackets.
I’ve got lucky and found a sharktooth secondhand. I plan to run the bikini with just the front hoop and not the door channels/ surrounds.
 
I’ve got lucky and found a sharktooth secondhand. I plan to run the bikini with just the front hoop and not the door channels/ surrounds.

If you are doing that then I agree the bikini top is very simple option. It may however flap around at the sides if not hooked in and stretched to shape over the door surrounds.
Something else to consider is I got a bikini top (S/H) which had a fume curtain built in to have a soft top truck cab as an option but I couldn't fasten the curtain it to the bulkhead because of my seat-belt bar and spare wheel mounting. A top without the fume curtain would not have been a problem, so just be aware of what else you have mounted where the top will want to go.
 
If you are doing that then I agree the bikini top is very simple option. It may however flap around at the sides if not hooked in and stretched to shape over the door surrounds.
Something else to consider is I got a bikini top (S/H) which had a fume curtain built in to have a soft top truck cab as an option but I couldn't fasten the curtain it to the bulkhead because of my seat-belt bar and spare wheel mounting. A top without the fume curtain would not have been a problem, so just be aware of what else you have mounted where the top will want to go.

Thanks. I’d wondered about a fume curtain later on. Take your point about bulkhead fixings- I’ll have to look at that. No seatbelt bar on mine so that might simplify.

On flapping I guess I’ll just have to experiment and see how it is.
 
It’s tricky isn’t it? I’ve spent a long time debating the pros and cons. My S3 is hardtop, and is pretty well sealed in bad weather (not perfect, but better than some from what I’ve read). Hardtop provides security, has full rear door and keeps the wind out.

A full tilt and stick set ends up being about £750-800 new. I do like the way they look, and the idea of rolling up the sides and back is fun. But there is still a bit of work to get it completely off.

So my thinking is: a bikini top is much, much cheaper, can be whipped on and off pretty easily (and stored in the truck), and gives flexibility in conjunction with the door tops. Effectively can go from completely topless to a mostly enclosed cab. Still got full hard top for winter. And I like how they look.

If it were possible to do full tilt + sticks for less I might consider it, but I’ve not found anything second hand after months of keeping an eye out.

Cant disagree with any of that.

FYI, jumped in mine to head off to work this morning and the inside front lip of the roof above the windscreen was FULL of water (I park on a slope) which the sloshed all down the inside of the windscreen and behind the dash :( I got out and took the wife's car to work. I need to work out where it's coming in, could be almost anywhere as that lip forms a channel almost the whole way round.
 
Cant disagree with any of that.

FYI, jumped in mine to head off to work this morning and the inside front lip of the roof above the windscreen was FULL of water (I park on a slope) which the sloshed all down the inside of the windscreen and behind the dash :( I got out and took the wife's car to work. I need to work out where it's coming in, could be almost anywhere as that lip forms a channel almost the whole way round.

That’s tedious, sorry to hear it. Sunny again tomorrow so perhaps leave outside to dry out?
 
Back to cornering clunk it can be difficult to see suspension bush wear while all the weight is sitting on it.

Jack up and support the chassis well and then use a lever to look for movement on the spring bushes and drop link bushes in the chassis.

Bushes can be a faff to get out but there's a few tricks that work reliably with a little patience.
 
Cant disagree with any of that.

FYI, jumped in mine to head off to work this morning and the inside front lip of the roof above the windscreen was FULL of water (I park on a slope) which the sloshed all down the inside of the windscreen and behind the dash :( I got out and took the wife's car to work. I need to work out where it's coming in, could be almost anywhere as that lip forms a channel almost the whole way round.

Rivets down the side channel letting water through to the inside channel is the usual suspect.

Keeping the outside gutter clean and the drain slots clear so water doesn't pool in them also helps.
 
I thought about one too but have decided against, if it's that nice, take the whole roof off, otherwise use a full tilt which gives you pretty good flexibility anyway. Horses for courses, of course.

Yeah, I might have another look at going roofless next week, looks like fun!
i'm getting around to that too. Previous owner siliconed the roof and front vents down. Will be sorting that out when i have it home
 
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