Series 3 Strange wheel alignment

I'm very new to Series 3. My 1982 88 is a joy, but a challenge steering it, especially when you're not used to anything without power steering. I've had a few scary moments with "wandering", but with practice I've learnt to overcome the problem. Its been suggested that I may need to adjust the steering box? I've taken a picture of the front end. The offside tyre is perfectly straight but the nearside points outward. Is this normal toe-out? If not could this be contributing to the wandering problem and if yes, any ideas how it can be rectified?

Go get it checked at a decent tyre Center, it should run true allowing for the camber on the road

Tracking should be a toe in of about 2mm difference between front and rear of the wheels - it's in the manual. Slacken the locknuts on the track rod and rotate the track rod to shorten or lengthen it. If you still have wander check the damper for play and stiffness - it may have run dry - and check the steering box for play. Also check the preload on the swivel hubs. All of these things can make the steering wandery. Also the fact that it's a series....

Mine look OK till I turn the wheel and I aint never seen anything so knock need in mi natch.

The steering on a series 3 is a wonderful thing,you wonder how the hell you managed to get it home. Seriously, get the tracking checked and adjusted professionally. I farted about with mine for ages before admitting defeat. Before you do get it adjusted make sure all the track rod ends are in good nick, there are 6 all together.

Col

Should be 1.2 to 2.4 mm toe in metric. Or 1/16" toe in on my imperial tracking gauges.

Check the steering relay has oil in as this contributes to wandering.
I would jack the offending side up and check for play in the bearings and swivel.
With wheel off the deck and axle stands under axle pull wheel from bottom/ top to see how slack if lots of movement get some one to apply the foor brake if movement changes check grease and adjust wheel bearings , if no changes from brakes swivel preload needs checking.
Whilst you have it jacked up check the wheel and tyre run out by spinning the wheel , could be a damaged wheel or tyre adding to yourproblems.

Sorting the steering (and brakes) on an old landy can be a lifelong hobby. After a while you'll be wishing for a shorter life.

Col

X1 on checking the steering relay. If worn it causes wandering. Cost about £70.00 to replace.

wammers said:

Should be 1.2 to 2.4 mm toe in metric. Or 1/16" toe in on my imperial tracking gauges.

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Bleedin ell. 1.2mm. Im on it now. Don't think I can see half a mill. In fact I bet one turn on a ball joint is more than that.
I'd better make sure mi string is tight

Bobsticle said:

Bleedin ell. 1.2mm. Im on it now. Don't think I can see half a mill. In fact I bet one turn on a ball joint is more than that.
I'd better make sure mi string is tight

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It's easy when you have tracking gauges like wot i does.

wammers said:

It's easy when you have tracking gauges like wot i does.

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Problem I have...... as its mi first go anorl

Took the rods off. Set up the near side with the steering rod and new ends. Then fitted the arm to the off side to set that wheel and the nearest I can get that one is with no toe in at all. One turn on the ball joint gives it over 3mm toe in.
I suppose that's what's called bang on in the trade.

Bobsticle said:

Problem I have...... as its mi first go anorl

Took the rods off. Set up the near side with the steering rod and new ends. Then fitted the arm to the off side to set that wheel and the nearest I can get that one is with no toe in at all. One turn on the ball joint gives it over 3mm toe in.
I suppose that's what's called bang on in the trade.

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My understanding (limited as it is) is that for fine adjustment, you turn the track rod not the ball joints, cos you're right a full turn of a ball joint is too much. I am preparing myself to be shot down on this..

When I changed my ball joints, I arsed about for ages with bits of string and lengths of wood but was happy that I'd got it right. So in the end I took it to my friendly tyre fitting place and they put it on their laser alighnment gizmo. My attempt was 1.5 mm out. Cost about £30

Col

Colthebrummie said:

My understanding (limited as it is) is that for fine adjustment, you turn the track rod not the ball joints, cos you're right a full turn of a ball joint is too much. I am preparing myself to be shot down on this..

When I changed my ball joints, I arsed about for ages with bits of string and lengths of wood but was happy that I'd got it right. So in the end I took it to my friendly tyre fitting place and they put it on their laser alighnment gizmo. My attempt was 1.5 mm out. Cost about £30

Col

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Correct, one end is LH thread, one end is RH thread. Turning the track rod in one direction moves the track rod ends closer together or in the other direction further apart. That is how it is adjusted, once tracking is set drag link is fitted by centering steering box and wheel. Then adjusting length of drag link until it sits in drop arm. Job done.

Whoohoo, thanks Wammers,

Col

Mpossible.

If one is LH and the other RH turning the track rod only moves the rod. The ends must stay, en space perpetual.

Bobsticle said:

Mpossible.

If one is LH and the other RH turning the track rod only moves the rod. The ends must stay, en space perpetual.

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Have a think about it.

I try not to if at all possible.
So the same thread on each end would move only the rod left or right but an opposite thread on each end extends or contracts the ball joints?

I'm going for a lie down

Bobsticle said:

I try not to if at all possible.
So the same thread on each end would move only the rod left or right but an opposite thread on each end extends or contracts the ball joints?

I'm going for a lie down

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The same threads on each end would cause the rod to screw in one end and out the other, not moving the ball joints. With different threads each end would, as you say, either extend or contract the ball joints depending which way you turned the rod.

Col

Bobsticle said:

I try not to if at all possible.
So the same thread on each end would move only the rod left or right but an opposite thread on each end extends or contracts the ball joints?

I'm going for a lie down

Click to expand...

Yup that's about it. Same thread on both ends would just move the track rod left or right between the TREs. Left hand thread on one side and right hand thread the other side, will pull them together or move them further apart depending which way you turn the track rod.