Strange fault on 2005 freelander

Hi all this is my first post
I currently have a 2005 1.8 freelander which is refusing to start
It's currently at my local garage who are now stumped
Initially it threw up a cam shaft sensor fault to which they changed it fired for 10 seconds then stopped and refuses to start again
Fuel pump and filter changed
Crank shaft sensor changed
No faults been generated now but still won't start

The initial fault was iratic idle which would sometimes stall and it began then to be very difficult to start then next day when cold it completely refused to start

I'm at my wits end and the garage bill is racking up with no solutions

The garage has also looked at the timing which they say is OK

Any suggestions apart from a can of petrol and a match would be great full lol

Is the fuel pump running?

Apparently runs for a few seconds to prime Yes
Also apparently been pressure tested also

It's not very common for a K series to suffer starting issues. I'm guessing that things like the plugs have been checked. A fuel pressure check was a worthwhile test. It's probably worth substituting the cam sensor for another, just in case it's duff. Otherwise the crank sensor is a possibility.
After that, there's really only the cam timing left to check.
There's not to make things that stop it from running.

I'm puzzled as both cam and crank sensors have been replaced and timing checked at garage
Apparently they can't even get it firing with easy start

Totally stumped now

Would a blocked Idle control valve stop it from starting?

My Discovery V8 went through a stage where it would occasionally cut out and have trouble starting. That turned out to be a lose wire on the coil. The early Ks had a coil (I believe) but your one presumably has coil packs - but is there a similar 'single point' in the ignition system on it (as opposed to ECU sensors) where something may have come loose?

Alibro said:

Would a blocked Idle control valve stop it from starting?

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GrumpyGel said:

My Discovery V8 went through a stage where it would occasionally cut out and have trouble starting. That turned out to be a lose wire on the coil. The early Ks had a coil (I believe) but your one presumably has coil packs - but is there a similar 'single point' in the ignition system on it (as opposed to ECU sensors) where something may have come loose?

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Is there a spark or not? If there's a spark then presumably its fuel, if not its electrical - unless the sparks at the wrong time - but knowing if there's a spark must help.

If the timing is OK which it should be unless the timing belt has slipped or broken. And the engine is getting fuel and air but no spark then it must be something like GG is talking about.

It's getting spark almost tries to fire occasionally
Pluses smell of fuel is quite strong after trying
Tried easy start with no difference it's almost as if you crank for maybe 10 seconds it may try to fire once and that's it

Is the spark strong enough though. I was caught out that way before thinking it was OK but the mechanic I took it to swapped the coil and it was sorted. Sorry talking about a lawnmower here but thinking the same principle applies.
Stupid question maybe but I'll ask anyway. Did they take the cam pulleys off to fix the sensor fault? If so were they refitted correctly? It's really easy to fit the pulleys with the centre lug in the wrong position which will result in your issue. You need to remove the pulley bolts to check the lugs are correct.

I'm not aware of any cam pulleys been taken off will ask the question
As for the coil packs it's second set I've tried in all combinations and second set of leads just to double check

has it got the right plugs in it I think they should be platinum either petrol is not getting enough through or the timing is out have you changed the fuel filter?

The fuel pump was changed I know that for sure

Where is the fuel filter located ?

Nick davis said:

I'm not aware of any cam pulleys been taken off will ask the question
As for the coil packs it's second set I've tried in all combinations and second set of leads just to double check

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In this pic you can see the lug I'm referring to. The pulleys are identical so you need to get the lug in the right position for exhaust or inlet side. Once the bolt goes back in this is hidden.

Thanks for the info I will hopefully get to look at that this week and get back to you

Much appreciated

Bit of a development I'm now sure it's over fueling
If I take out the fuel pump fuse it will start up straight away for a second until no fuel present then put fuse back in it will do same again start for a second then stop
What could cause this

Thanks for all the help I've received so far starting to feel like I'm getting somewhere

Have you checked the battery earth connection. Had this issue on 2005 3 door recently.

Had a look today all seems fine with earth connection

However on scan tool showshowster a few abnormalities with temp sensors

This morning obviously stone cold IAT showed 6 c about correct but ECT showed 18 c
Long shot on coolant sensor but will get one tomorrow to try

When you unplug the coolant sensor the dash gauge hits the roof but ecu registers it as minus 40 which confused me

Nick davis said:

Had a look today all seems fine with earth connection

However on scan tool showshowster a few abnormalities with temp sensors

This morning obviously stone cold IAT showed 6 c about correct but ECT showed 18 c
Long shot on coolant sensor but will get one tomorrow to try

When you unplug the coolant sensor the dash gauge hits the roof but ecu registers it as minus 40 which confused me

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Minus 40 is generic OBD speak for "I don't understand"
It's not uncommon to see -40 on them, say if the sensor is disconnected. Basically it's an under expected range reading. The ECU knows that the CTS is open circuit, so sends that out the OBD, but the dash defaults or hot, as a warning that coolant temperature information is unavailable. The fans kick in too