Refurbishing my 1997 defender 300 TDI

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Thanks, sounds worth considering
Went from an Impreza Via a Rangerover 4.4 V8 as primary and Defender as my runabout
 
Has anyone any experience of SHIELDER galvanised chassis ? they are based in Ireland but supply here and offer powder coating or raptor coating pre delivery.
Again any feedback is welcomed
 
My chassis is from Shielder.

I had to cut and re-weld the offside/front coil mount as it was noticeably misaligned. I provided feedback to Shielder but do not know what they have done with this information since. I also had to trim a very small amount off the front crossmember for the tub (NRC4171) as it ever so slightly interfered with some of the other brackertry on the chassis.

Due to the way in which they are transported, i.e. stacked on a trailer, I perhaps wouldn't get it coated or painted as it is unlikely that it will be enitrely intact upon receipt. The courier they used was very helpful and his comms were excellent too. If painting, for gods sake make sure each coat is compatible with one another! In short, I have been advised that the following is a good idea:

Mordant solution
Rinse
Mordant solution
Rinse
Etch prime
Chassis black
 
As the title, I'm about to start my refurb. and would like recommendations regarding what best to carry out based of other members experiences so far on my list are

1, Galvanised chassis
2, Bulkhead repair / galvanising
3, New brakes all round
4, New STD suspension all round
5, Buzz weld cavity wax and chassis in one
6, Full fluids change
7, Timing belt change
8, Full re spray
9, New clutch &master cyl, check rear crank seal

Budget is not limitless

Anything else I should consider

If you are doing a re-chassis and want to paint it and can do it all under one roof then I would take it to pieces and build it back up from scratch refurbishing and renewing everything you need/want to as you go. Makes for a great and easy way to do most things. It all depends on space and what you have in the way of engine lifts, a 2 post lift if you are lucky etc.

When I did my biggest rebuild I removed the full body and was left with a rolling chassis complete with engine and gearboxes - my chassis and BH had already been renewed so this was just about rebuilding it, new wiring and all the bits that would not be touched in a whole body lift off chassis swap.

I then pulled the gearboxes and resealed them, new crank seal, would have done the clutch but it was new 5000miles prior. I removed most parts from the engine while it was sitting looking at me. Sent everything steel I could get off to the galvaniser from the fuel filler neck to the inner wings. I would have done the timing belt then too when but it was not due for a long time. I then painted all the body parts off the vehicle so that I could paint them all over like the factory paint then carefully reassembled it all. My post is on the forum somewhere, search for Defender Bodywork Rebuild.

I replaced all the things you are talking about more or less as default. All new brake lines and stainless flexi's and things. It was great fun and I would do it again. If you get a galv chassis paint it too, it makes it less obvious you have a nice restored landy to thieves and also protects it longer, galv is not protection in perpetuity, a painted chassis should last about 20 years before it needs work, longer if looked after. A galv chassis will start to show issues after about 25 years and could be rotting in 30. Dinitrol in it and good etch and paint on it would be best.
 
I had to cut and re-weld the offside/front coil mount as it was noticeably misaligned.

Why didn't you have them collect it and send a replacement? There is no way I would have a new galv chassis then cut into it and weld - the zinc will still provide relative sacrificial protection to the welded area but it will rot sooner than anything else and when you buy something specifically for it's increased corrosion resistance you want it the best it can be.
 
I had to cut and re-weld the offside/front coil mount as it was noticeably misaligned. I provided feedback to Shielder but do not know what they have done with this information since. I also had to trim a very small amount off the front crossmember for the tub (NRC4171) as it ever so slightly interfered with some of the other brackertry on the chassis.

Maybe that is why it is cheaper than the competition. Still not good and I would expect feedback from them to explain why it was like that.

Cheers
 
Maybe that is why it is cheaper than the competition. Still not good and I would expect feedback from them to explain why it was like that.

Cheers
I have Defender 90 and 110 CAD drawings complete with parts cutting DXF's for CNC laser/waterjet etc. that a fabricator friend of mine acquired somehow, if these guys have got hold of something like that it may be that they can make them but are not very good at jigging it all together.
 
Thanks for the comments,
Agree with Discomania I would have returned for a replacement chassis,

We will be stripping down fully and rebuilding and sending what I can for Galvanising
 
Why didn't you have them collect it and send a replacement? There is no way I would have a new galv chassis then cut into it and weld - the zinc will still provide relative sacrificial protection to the welded area but it will rot sooner than anything else and when you buy something specifically for it's increased corrosion resistance you want it the best it can be.

I had already invested much time and effort in the chassis by the time I noticed the flaw. Sorting it out was preferable to returning etc. etc.
 
Strip down has commenced

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You'd hope so lol. I can see why not everyone does is themselves even if they have got space and time. The defender is going to take me a very long time. It's not even mine either lol.
That's ironic! So you're enjoying all the fun instead of somebody else :D
Who are you doing it for?
 
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