P38A SRS problems, and unusual box...

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Digweed

Active Member
Posts
120
Location
Ireland
Evening all,

Just started looking at some of the gremlins on my '01 2.5 diesel. After reading a few threads on here I'm fairly sure that one of the problems with the EAS is the thermal cut off switch, no continuity between the Orange wire and ground, I'll have a better look to see how to rectify that. the main question I have is that I'm getting an SRS/Airbag fault and when I had the drivers seat out to see why it wasn't working I found that the srs wires (yellow sleeve) coming out of the carpet had no plug on the end and also there was a pair of wires coming from the bottom of the seat the had no plug (same colours) could i just solder the wires together and hopefully that might solve the problem or would that be too risky. It looks like they should be connected.

Secondly - I found a box attached to the side of the ECU box in the engine bay. It was spliced into the harness coming out of it, when i opened it it had a 30 sec delay timer PCB inside. never seen anything like this, hardly a turbo timer
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For eas problems check out wammers how to in the technical archive top left forum heading, for the srs problem I went down this road with my p38 and I gave up on the connectors and soldered the wires together no more warning light on dash. The delay timer will be a hot start fix if you do a search you will find loads of post`s about it.
 
The srs abs lights if you fix the wires will only go out once the car has been driven over five mph and the system has don its checks, I even have to explain that to the mot guy.
 
Digweed said:
Evening all,

Just started looking at some of the gremlins on my '01 2.5 diesel. After reading a few threads on here I'm fairly sure that one of the problems with the EAS is the thermal cut off switch, no continuity between the Orange wire and ground, I'll have a better look to see how to rectify that. the main question I have is that I'm getting an SRS/Airbag fault and when I had the drivers seat out to see why it wasn't working I found that the srs wires (yellow sleeve) coming out of the carpet had no plug on the end and also there was a pair of wires coming from the bottom of the seat the had no plug (same colours) could i just solder the wires together and hopefully that might solve the problem or would that be too risky. It looks like they should be connected.

Secondly - I found a box attached to the side of the ECU box in the engine bay. It was spliced into the harness coming out of it, when i opened it it had a 30 sec delay timer PCB inside. never seen anything like this, hardly a turbo timerView attachment 154308 View attachment 154309 View attachment 154310 View attachment 154311 View attachment 154312
Click to expand...
Solder the loom from the carpet to the bit from the seat, BUT disconnect the battery first and wait at least 10 minutes unless you want a face full of airbag before you do the soldering.
 
brianp38dse said:
The srs abs lights if you fix the wires will only go out once the car has been driven over five mph and the system has don its checks, I even have to explain that to the mot guy.
Click to expand...
SRS & ABS are 2 different things, you are right about the ABS but the 5 mph does not apply to SRS, it is possible that diagnostics will be needed to clear the fault.
 
Thermal switch is in the top of the pump. It costs about £5 from Farnell, IIRC. Be very careful levering the little board out. The boards are a bit crap to be honest so it might even be the circuit itself that has broken.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Thermal switch is in the top of the pump. It costs about £5 from Farnell, IIRC. Be very careful levering the little board out. The boards are a bit crap to be honest so it might even be the circuit itself that has broken.
Click to expand...
Ifuou earth the orange wireand the compressor runs then it's defo the thermal switch .
 
Took the pump out today and did all the seals and filters on it. I've yet to do the thermal switch, it's sitting on the table ready to go. when I took off the cover with the circuit board the thing was full of like a black powder, the best description I could give it is like potting compost
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The armature/commutator, can never remember the right name for it!!! the bit where the brushes come in contact with the motor has a very deep groove in it so I'm wondering if it might be this thats causing the dust. the board itself looks okay but I'm not getting continuity between the orange wire and ground wire so I'll be changing the switch. what screws should i use to hold it back down?
 
The black dust is from the brushes and commutator. If there is a deep groove in the commutator, I would normally put it in a lathe and skim it unless it's too far gone, then clean out the grooves between the copper segments, you need to do this regardless of whether it's skimmed or not.
 
Digweed said:
the board itself looks okay but I'm not getting continuity between the orange wire and ground wire so I'll be changing the switch. what screws should i use to hold it back down?
Click to expand...

If you've prised it is very carefully then you should be able to push it back on and just flatten the rivet heads back down. If you've not been careful you'll need to get inventive!
 
Grrrrrr said:
If you've prised it is very carefully then you should be able to push it back on and just flatten the rivet heads back down. If you've not been careful you'll need to get inventive!
Click to expand...
Haven't then it off yet. It's just that I've seen a few how to's that drill out the rivets and use screws to hold it back down. Think I'll try and squeeze the heads of the rivets and get it off that way first. Thanks.
 
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