sorting out an intermittent P38 2000 ABS brake fault ...the ABS fuse ... then the accumulator

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Grey_beard

Grey_beard

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check ... More games of P38 RANGE ROVER CHESS 111k miles 4.0 HSE

steps to begin to chase down an intermittent ABS fault ...

1. change ABS relay fit new siemens LR part
2. change accumulator fit WABCO part
3. bleed brakes and replace with fresh fluid in system
( plus change and fit new rear discs / pads / calipers )

stop and see if that sorts it ....

next steps

check pump cycle frequency ... eg re-read getting comfortable with Wabco ABS brakes on Range Rovers

then ?

helpful to know of others experiences in sorting the ABS / brakes

ta

GB
 
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When does the ABS money light come on - or does it just not go out when you get to 5 mph or so?

As Mark says the bleeding sequence must be strictly adhered to.
 
Mark Piercy said:
Did you bleeding the brakes in the proper sequence Mr Grey?
It's a pita but it's a must? :eek:
Click to expand...
agreed ... thats the requirement according to the brake bible
waiting for the acc & relay to arrive and then fitting all the new rear brake bits ..rear brakes are shot to bits ... previous owner skimped
 
Fergie46 said:
When does the ABS money light come on - or does it just not go out when you get to 5 mph or so?

As Mark says the bleeding sequence must be strictly adhered to.
Click to expand...

ABS light sometimes all ok goes out after 6 mph

then

other times abs / tc lights are on
then dreaded dead pedal no braking power assistance
pump not running .. wiggle relay 17 and it wakes up
 
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Grey_beard said:
ABS light sometimes all ok goes out after 6 mph

then

other times abs / tc lights are on
then dreaded dead pedal no braking power assistance
pump not running .. wiggle relay and it wakes up
Click to expand...

You may wish to fit a new fuse box before spending on stuff you don't need. And check the sensors are fully pushed in.
 
wammers said:
You may wish to fit a new fuse box before spending on stuff you don't need. And check the sensors are fully pushed in.[/QUOTE
wammers said:
You may wish to fit a new fuse box before spending on stuff you don't need. And check the sensors are fully pushed in.
Click to expand...
mmm ...
so far no faults re fuse box... but yes its on the suspect list but not yet on the naughty step
fault codes were all motor running / relay and very intermittent
relay needs to be replaced as its 111k and is suspect easy to do
accumulator is old and has never been replaced 111k so wil take the load off the pump
and need to do the rear brakes so system fluid change and bleed required
see how we go from there
cheers

;););););)
Click to expand...
 
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Well i suspect it as a contributory factor. Wiggling relay to start pump speaks for it's self. Fuse boxes burn out the contacts, especially on high current areas like the ABS pump relay.
 
wammers

relay wiggling was to stop it .... smiles
rule of thumb ... never trust a relay ....
will check circuits when I have fitted new relay ...
thks for input

GB
 
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Grey_beard said:
wammers

relay wiggling was to stop it .... smiles
rule of thumb ... never trust a relay ....
will check circuits when I have fitted new relay ...
thks for input

GB
Click to expand...

I really don't need lessons from Storey Wilson or you on how a relay works. ABS power relay is relay 2. ABS pump relay is relay 17. You said in post 5 that system is dead until you wiggle a relay. Which one did you have to wiggle to get pump to start up?
 
wammers said:
I really don't need lessons from Storey Wilson or you on how a relay works. ABS power relay is relay 2. ABS pump relay is relay 17. You said in post 5 that system is dead until you wiggle a relay. Which one did you have to wiggle to get pump to start up?
Click to expand...

will let you all know when the bits arrive
system is not dead ... it throws abs fault errors but not all the time
relay 17 pull out / reinsert ...
so pointless til then ....
and I know you trying to be helpful but don't be so grumpy / rude mate
cheers
GB
 
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Grey_beard said:
will let you all know when the bits arrive
pointless til then ....
and I know you trying to be helpful but don't be so grumpy / rude mate
cheers
GB
Click to expand...
Grumpy he is and rude is his middle name.
but he lives and breathes P38 fire!
99%of the time he's is correct and you are right, he is only trying to help.:p
 
Wammers

I really appreciate your help
yep original LR relay new replacement part # PRC9566 is in @ # 17
and new LR relay in at # 2

+ new EAS #20 & # 6

see attached

So far so good ... ABS fault now not showing ... bated breath ...

Cheers n thanks for guidance

GB
 

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And now for the cruise control gremlins:eek::eek::eek:
RAVE diagnostic steps being studied
Ta to all for assistance on sorting the ABS gremlin :eek::eek::eek:
 
On the petrol`s most of the cruise control faults are split vacuum hose from brake peddle to bellows in engine bay, most replace the pipe all the way through, hope that helps
so is the ABS fixed if so what fixed it, may help others.
 
brianp38dse said:
On the petrol`s most of the cruise control faults are split vacuum hose from brake peddle to bellows in engine bay, most replace the pipe all the way through, hope that helps
so is the ABS fixed if so what fixed it, may help others.[/QUOTE

re ABS looks like it was the main ABS relay .. as the culprit this time
cleaned all the fuse tabs
and so far so good ..
put a number of new original LR relays in as well
as the EAS pump relay as the pump has been replaced the EAS needed sorting .. but that was another game of chess

Will change the tubing as first step in debugging the Cruise C

cheers

GB
Click to expand...
 
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