Smoking problem bad?

I have a good 300tdi engine in the 110, but took a while to diagnose the wastegate being the reason the new turbo was not working, bla bla bla, in short I have been running the engine with the wastegate arm too long, as its a bugger to adjust without taking the whole manifold etc off *again*...

As a result I have similar power to before but way more lag, EGT lower, although carries on climbing a bit after lifting off gas as obviously timing / fueling is out.

Question is, as a result she smokes a lot and burns a but of oil, is this bad and fix asap or am I worrying about nothing when I have a load of other sh*t to fix on a 23yo tracter ...

does the fourby turbo adjuster help dial in turbo / wastegate arm length?

With the arm too long, (i.e wastegate opens too quickly), you can use any manual boost controller / bleeder valve in order to increase the boost easily at the turn of the dial on the controller - they work best situated close to the turbo without too much capillary pipe.

A bit of black smoke from too little boost, and a bit of oil burning is not going to cause much upset over a short period - especially as you have an EGT sensor to watch

Goc3k said:

With the arm too long, (i.e wastegate opens too quickly), you can use any manual boost controller / bleeder valve in order to increase the boost easily at the turn of the dial on the controller - they work best situated close to the turbo without too much capillary pipe.

A bit of black smoke from too little boost, and a bit of oil burning is not going to cause much upset over a short period - especially as you have an EGT sensor to watch

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Great thanks for that, I will get a manual boost controller, should I still shorten the arm or does the boost controller do away with the need to dial in the length of wastegate arm? and yes am monitoring EGT

Don't worry about shortening the arm, shouldn't need to. Aye it will do away with the need to alter the actuator rod entirely, as you'll be changing the boost being metered to the actuator.

ok, so I shortened arm just to have a better reference point before adding the boost controller... now tried a few positions from fully closed to quite open with no change in boost? any tips?

Do you have a link to the exact controller you bought, and is it plumbed correctly?

Goc3k said:

Do you have a link to the exact controller you bought, and is it plumbed correctly?

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https://fourby.co.uk/Boost-Controller-for-200-/-300-TDi-Engine followed all the manual with a competent mechanic so would hope so... you never know...

cborrman said:

followed all the manual with a competent mechanic so would hope so... you never know...

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Easiest mistake is not moving your boost gauges plumbing, post install as it needs to be upstream of the boost controller.

What is the gauge reading at the moment? What was it reading before, after you initially shortened the arm?

Is the fuelling set stock?

fuelling is stock bar boost pin and boost ring. don’t have a boost gauge sadly...

No way of knowing what is going on then - you wont really be able to feel an increase without fueling adjustment (as you started on stock / slightly more than already), if anything pushing the turbo outside of its efficiency range will probably cost power through needless pumping losses and lowering charge density - lazy fix is just T a cheapo gauge off where the controller is fed and cable tie it to a windscreen wiper and set it up on a dry day (if you need it sorted without wasting time on a neat installation)