Disco 2 SLS, no lights and wont go down

So got all the sensors and airbags in. Put fuse and relay in. All fine, calibrated it perfect with Hawkeye. Jumped in, no faults, hit the off road button, it lifted 2 inches but no lights came on the dash, no vehicle raised symbol. And come to notice, theres no SLS lights on with ignition self check, and yes it is configured to air. I pressed the button again and it went to lift ANOTHER 2 inches, so I opened the door to cancel it. No faults recorded. Any ideas? btw, the vehicle lowered fine when doing calibration, but will NOT lower using the hawkeye self test feature.

You should check if the warnings were not blanked with tape by those who removed the SLS and if not there is the possibility to disable/enable the warning lights but not with hawkeye only with nanocom which can access the instrument pack

sierrafery said:

You should check if the warnings were not blanked with tape by those who removed the SLS and if not there is the possibility to disable/enable the warning lights but not with hawkeye only with nanocom which can access the instrument pack

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I can see both lights on the dash by shining a torch on there, so could be a possibility with having the lights disabled. Correct me if I’m wrong, 1 fuse under the engine bay, and 1 relay? I just don’t Understand why I can’t lift it.

Just realised I can’t lower the vehicle using any function now, but I did lower it once earlier for calibration. But now using the hawkeye to LOWER it is RASING it slightly, but pump doesnt come on

Jamiegreen said:

Just realised I can’t lower the vehicle using any function now, but I did lower it once earlier for calibration. But now using the hawkeye to LOWER it is RASING it slightly, but pump doesnt come on

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are all orifices closed?

Cheers

ohhh ok, my bad, noticed something. I CAN lower and raise the vehicle fine. BUT! Lifting the vehicle makes the height reading go down, and lowering the vehicle makes the height reading go up...and it likes to sit on its ass when I take the key out and shut the door... maybe I've done something backwards...

Jamiegreen said:

Just realised I can’t lower the vehicle using any function now, but I did lower it once earlier for calibration. But now using the hawkeye to LOWER it is RASING it slightly, but pump doesnt come on

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I dont know what you are doing there... it's impossible to raise if the compressor doesnt kick in, can you hear any bong when you push the ORM switch?

Did you rewire the circuits to the sensors? ... if yes there's the problem with the SLS behaviour but it has nothing to do with the warning lights which seem to be disabled with nanocom then

sierrafery said:

Did you rewire the circuits to the sensors? ... if yes there's the problem with the SLS behaviour but it has nothing to do with the warning lights which seem to be disabled with nanocom then

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Yes I wired new plugs to the sensors with one of those repair kits from ebay. But im sure I matched the colours of the wires correctly...

As long as the heights are the other way around it might be a mistake with the colours or something so fist you'll have to make continuity tests between the ECU and sensor's plugs and if that is OK the ECU becomes very suspect... see RAVE - Electrical library - Connector views to see pin disposals, take a long enough piece of wire to reach from the sensor to the engine bay and check continuity as follows:
C0391/0377(female side) - C0754
9 ............................................5
6.............................................1
3.............................................4

C0392/0378(female side) - C0763
8............................................5
9............................................1
10...........................................4

Ignore that.. looked at old plug....
Guess I better cut the heat shrink off my soldered wires to check I got them right

Well... I checked. All my wiring is correct. The sensors are wired exactly the same as they were originally... now I really have no idea

If you are 100% certain that those circuits have continuity as i described then you should replace the ECU

sierrafery said:

If you are 100% certain that those circuits have continuity as i described then you should replace the ECU

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Well, I can't say I checked for continuity as I haven't got my multimeter to hand. But I did check all my wiring was correct to the pins of the sensor plugs. And, in all fairness they do give a valid reading up and down.. just the wrong way, so I assume the wiring is working so to say. I'll pop to a scrappy tomorrow and get another SLABS ECU, and hope for the best.
Thanks for the help.

Jamiegreen said:

....they do give a valid reading up and down.. just the wrong way, so I assume the wiring is working so to say.

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The continuity check i recommended was not to see if the wiring is working or not but to see if it's well connected beetween the ECU and the sensor cos if those pins are not matching exactly as i wrote then the readings can be all over the place so better do that check before you spend on another ECU

The gist is that the circuit MUST be exactly like in the diagram between the sensors and ECU, any other combination is wrong and as you get reverted readings that's very suspect so only if you are 100% certain that the circuit is OK then you can get another ECU

sierrafery said:

The gist is that the circuit MUST be exactly like in the diagram between the sensors and ECU, any other combination is wrong and as you get reverted readings that's very suspect so only if you are 100% certain that the circuit is OK then you can get another ECU

View attachment 155459

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Great, thanks, all im a little stuck on, is how do I know which plug and what pins I need to check on the slabs ECU side. I downloaded rave but struggling a little to find that info..

Jamiegreen said:

Great, thanks, all im a little stuck on, is how do I know which plug and what pins I need to check on the slabs ECU side. I downloaded rave but struggling a little to find that info..

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Scrap that, I've worked it out, first number is what plug, second number is what pin.. I think

You got it ... If you go in the Electrical library to the connector views of all those plugs you'll see it clearer then make sure that the wires are going from the sensor to those intermediate plugs in the engine bay as i described in post #10

sierrafery said:

You got it ... If you go in the Electrical library to the connector views of all those plugs you'll see it clearer then make sure that the wires are going from the sensor to those intermediate plugs in the engine bay as i described in post #10

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Alrighty, I understand checking continuity from the sensor plugs to the SLABS ECU behind the glovebox, but lost me a little as to what to test in the engine bay?
Sorry if im sounding stoopid