Shuttle valve switch

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brianconwy

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Location
conwy, north wales
I know this has been covered a lot of times but just a few questions. I have ordered a new shuttle valve switch unit after getting intermittent dash warnings and then diagnostic unit read the svs fault.
Should I try fitting this first without doing the mod (option b)? If I do this and still need the mod does it matter which switch I use or should I use the new one?
 
I know this has been covered a lot of times but just a few questions. I have ordered a new shuttle valve switch unit after getting intermittent dash warnings and then diagnostic unit read the svs fault.
Should I try fitting this first without doing the mod (option b)? If I do this and still need the mod does it matter which switch I use or should I use the new one?

Nine times out of ten the shuttle valve switches are serviceable, the fault usually lies with the two pin connector inside the ABS Modulator, and not with the connector on the SVS plate.
The modification usually refered to as "Option B" bypasses those connectors using a couple of external wires.
So, the chances are that even replacing the SVS switch plate probably won't cure the problem.
As far as LR are concerned, the mod is unofficial, they'd rather sell you a new ABS modulator.
I've done the mod on a couple of D2's with no adverse effects and no more 3 amigos, until a hub fails.
You can easily test the switches with a multimeter set to read k ohms. Connect the meter probes to the two pin socket and you should read 3k ohms. Press either switch and the reading should drop to 2k ohms. Press both switches together and the reading should show 1k ohm. If the switches check out and meet those conditions then it looks like the mod is needed.
There's no need to remove the ABS modulator from the pipework, just unclip the various pipes from the bulkhead and there are two or three plastic clips holding the pipes just below the unit which when they're unclipped you should be able to carefully lift the modulator unit away just high enough to gain some access, albeit a bit restricted to the three screws fastening the SVS plate. I found it easier when I had another pair of hands to hold the unit up while I did the job.
I've attached the details of the mod "Option B" below.
 

Attachments

  • OPTION B.pdf
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Something wen awry with the internet as I posted! I have taken the SVS off and tested it with a meter and it gave the results expected. The allen screws were a bit of a pain. I have put it back together and will wait for a wired connector I have oredered. Then I will do the mod. Do you think I should use the new SVS when it arrives or just do the mod on the old one?
 
Nine times out of ten the shuttle valve switches are serviceable, the fault usually lies with the two pin connector inside the ABS Modulator, and not with the connector on the SVS plate.
The modification usually refered to as "Option B" bypasses those connectors using a couple of external wires.
So, the chances are that even replacing the SVS switch plate probably won't cure the problem.
As far as LR are concerned, the mod is unofficial, they'd rather sell you a new ABS modulator.
I've done the mod on a couple of D2's with no adverse effects and no more 3 amigos, until a hub fails.
You can easily test the switches with a multimeter set to read k ohms. Connect the meter probes to the two pin socket and you should read 3k ohms. Press either switch and the reading should drop to 2k ohms. Press both switches together and the reading should show 1k ohm. If the switches check out and meet those conditions then it looks like the mod is needed.
There's no need to remove the ABS modulator from the pipework, just unclip the various pipes from the bulkhead and there are two or three plastic clips holding the pipes just below the unit which when they're unclipped you should be able to carefully lift the modulator unit away just high enough to gain some access, albeit a bit restricted to the three screws fastening the SVS plate. I found it easier when I had another pair of hands to hold the unit up while I did the job.
I've attached the details of the mod "Option B" below.

Hi, after having tested the old one and found it to give the correct readings i was all set to do the mod tomorrow. The last couple of days there has been no sign of the lights. Do you think I should carry on and do the mod anyway? I can't open the attached file or download it. The only part I am unsure of is do I cut the yellow green wire or splice the new wire to it in a t-junction? I wouldn't think it matters if the brown wires are cut. Thanks.
 
Hi, after having tested the old one and found it to give the correct readings i was all set to do the mod tomorrow. The last couple of days there has been no sign of the lights. Do you think I should carry on and do the mod anyway? I can't open the attached file or download it. The only part I am unsure of is do I cut the yellow green wire or splice the new wire to it in a t-junction? I wouldn't think it matters if the brown wires are cut. Thanks.

Seeing as you're in there anyway, yes I would do the mod. Even if it appears that the svs is working now, there's no telling whether or not it'll raise it's ugly head again. The mod won't adversely affect the operation of the system.
The brown wires on the svs plate are cut and the two pin socket can be discarded.
Two wires can then be joined to the brown wires left on the svs and brought out through a hole.
One of the wires you've brought out will connect to ground and the other to the green/yellow wire.
Cut the green/yellow wire and connect the wire from the svs to the end which goes back into the loom towards the ECU, not the little end that goes back to the plug on the ABS modulator.
I hope that makes sense.
 
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