Kevinsv
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Hi hope someone can give me some advice will a diesel engine start with low compression in one cylinder my mechanic says no and it needs engine replacement
Should a diesel engine be scrapped for low compression
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Kevinsv
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- Darlington County Durham UK
Hi thanks but would it start and run
flat
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probably, but it woul sound like a bag of nails and would be down on power and up on smoke, and thats if it does start.
Colthebrummie
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Basically, it depends why it's down on compression. A badly worn cylinder will cost a lot of money to fix. Badly adjusted or leaky valves, not so much.
Col
Col
Is this on the Freelander 2?
Low compression because of bad sealing rings or a damaged bore, then potentially expensive to fix, unless it's just a broken ring, but still labour intensive.
Valve sealing issues are much easier to fix.
If it's before 2010, then it's probably got bent valves from a dropped swirl flap (very common).
This is relatively easy to repair to an acceptable standard, simply by replacing the bent valves in the low compression cylinder.
Remove the other swirl flaps from the inlet manifold at the same time too.
If the mechanic says it needs a new engine, then he's not a mechanic, but a fitter, big difference.
My FL2 is currently driving with 1 cylinder 20% low on compression, as the valve seats are damaged. I drive it daily and only notice a slight uneven idle when cold.
I am however keen to replace the head with the low mileage replacement I've now got.
Last edited:
Kevinsv
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Hi its a 2008 if l remove the flaps what would the effect be on the engine what's the point of the flaps
Thanks for your help to everyone
Thanks for your help to everyone
Kevinsv
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Hi my compression test l got was cylinder (1) 200 cylinder(2) 220 cylinder(3)70 cylinder (4) 220 = 2.2bar car was stood for a time ? And has not started in 15 months
Was it running okay before it was stood up for 15 months?
Does it start or try and start now? I assume not as thats why the mech has it, it should start and run on three cylinders, badly but it will rin.
Could be stuck rings or stuck valve on number 3, why they are stuck might be the issue.
Basically was it okay before or have you bought it as a dud?
Sadly all we can do is guess.
Removing the swirl flap (they are actually port deactivation flaps) is a good post problem precaution, although I suspect not in this case, as the damage has been done.
The idea of the flaps is to increase port swirl of incoming air, which is said to aid mixing of the fuel and air. It doesn't in reality do anything useful, so LR actually removed the flaps from this engine in mid 2010. LR simply didn't fit the flap equipped manifold or any of the control system after late 2010, as the flaps breaking free clearly caused more trouble than they were worth.
You do however need to have the head removed and any valve damage rectified, preferably by someone who is actually capable of do the work, without the "it needs a new engine " BS.
Ok so cylinder 3 has the issue. It'll still run, but will run unevenly, as cylinder 3 won't be doing anything.
Some head repair work is needed I would guess.
I've repaired mine, which was much worse than this one. I needed a replacement piston, as the previous repairer managed to drop a nut in the engine.
PRO
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If it's fl2 then the issue might be on the top, the bottom is quite solid on these engines. Mine had a snapped timing belt in the past then it was "fixed" but they left the flaps on. And now one of the flaps went cruising into the engine, so here we go again.
Point being two of these issues that are usually catastrophic and the bottom is rock solid still.
Point being two of these issues that are usually catastrophic and the bottom is rock solid still.
