Series 3 Electronic Ignition.

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Stuboy

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19
Hi All,
Can anyone give me some advice please. I have a 1978 Series 3 fitted with a 1988 2.5 petrol engine from I am told a 110 Defender. Having problems keeping the points set for any length of time. At best a hundred miles or so before it starts to run rough again. Sweet as a nut when gap is correct. It has been suggested that I could look for a conversion kit to make it electronic ignition. Does anyone know of any such kits or could recommend one. Are they easy to fit?

Any advice appreciated.
 
SimonBBC make a kit - easy enough to fit. But it sounds like you have something else wrong/broken in the distributor if the points gap keeps needing setting. A kit with a new distributor would best, but bear in mind that points based systems are repair friendly, electronic ones aren't - especially if they get wet!
 
I installed the simon bbc distributor 2 weeks ago. Real easy.
Idle was rough +- 50 rpm now solid and steady. Hills that I had to drop out of overdrive I can now get up.
I guess by fitting the complete electronic distributor I have solved a few issues with vacc advance and wear in distributor.
 
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Blackburn and eightinavee. Thanks for the info. Think I will go down the Lumination route and be done with it. Vehicle is brill in all other respects.
 
if you can stretch to it try a '123' distributor, totally solid state, maps can be adjusted on some to suit vehicle, had one on an MG midget a few years ago and was superb.

cheers steve
 
Hi,
After 3 days fiddling about with my Landy - points, coil then back to points, I finally found the problem - thanks to an AA mechanic (I was stranded 150 miles from home while on holiday in Scotland!) Mine is also fitted with a Defender 2.5 petrol engine.
Did you get your dizzy AND points/condenser from Paddock? Hope not. I did back in January - fitted them both and it worked fine... for a bit. Turns out the old Landies used a different set of points - somewhat hard to locate these days. Paddock supplied the wrong ones (twice), so she'd run ok for a bit, but when it got to under 2 miles before the points gap closed, I decided it's time I converted to electronic ignition!
I wasn't even aware there were about 3 different types of contact breakers, but I've had it with this system now. Have heard good and bad about simonBBC, also Maplin, anyone else got any conversion kits them recommend? What's Lumenition like?
My Mad Cow is in for a new name... Awkward Cow! As for Paddock...!!!!
Rose
 
PS.
I got my electronic ignition kit from Ignition Car Parts in Basildon... but am awaiting the arrival of the RIGHT rotor arm today, as the kit they sent was wrong (though they knew it was for a 45D dizzy!)
So Stuboy, if you're doing the same it might be well to check. In their case the rotor arm should be RED (not black) and have no rivet in it! If you get the black one it won't fit above the trigger wheel as it's too long to clip into place.
Just thought I'd mention this... good luck!
Rose
 
Been down this road on my 2.25. Checked the dizzy for shaft wear and proper advance - mechanically it wasn't bad.

Fitted a Pertronix Ignitor (known over there as an Aldon Ignitor i believe) and never looked back. Got a set of points and a condensor in the toolbox just in case the thing craps out - but it hasn't for many years of happy motoring.

Were I you I'd have the distributor out and see if you can check its condition. If good, then something like the Ignitor would work fine. if not, then one of the full dizzy replaceements is a great idea.

aj"What's the knob? Octane selector. How quaint"r
 
PPS - finally got a POINTless Landy! Great - fired up second time. Err, Ignition Car Parts sent me the right rotor arm, only it turned out to be green - the Lucas type. The red one must be aftermarket, but both are ok apparently.
Mr Churchill - my dizzy is less than 1000 miles old, only fitted in January. Fair enough the one it replaced was truly knackered (worn bearings) but the current one seems fine. Long may that be so!
Rose
 
Yea, verily. Keep it lubricated per the specifications and make sure the hole in the distributor shaft is not blocked and you'll get decades of weear out of it.

I've rebushed more than one 25D4 - they're great distributors and very, very simple to work on. Only thing I found was a right pain in the rump was dealing with worn pivots on the advance weights. turning noversized pivots, reaming out the holes in the weights and staking new pivots to the plate was labour-intensive. Not a job i'll have to do twice on that one, though. :)

ajr
 
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