Series 3 109 Station Wagon, full ground up resto and 88 redo careless resto driving project

Thinking to make a flexible lance and introduce Kurust through the multitude of holes already in the chassis.
But one concern is if there is some thick rust and the chemical only treats the surface, then the Waxoyl or Dinitrol would be unable to get into that bit of rust, as the coating left by the Kurust would prevent good penetration ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ . What to do ?
Maybe I should make more holes for access, and use a wire brush on a flexible drill attachment to access any inacesible parts.
It's a lot of work, but may be worth it.
Since there has been no treatment other than some paint internally, the Kurust should do a good job of converting lighter surface rust pre Dinitrol or Waxoyl.
I have used Waxoyl in the past, never thinned it but put the big pump able container in a bucket of very hot water which made it the consistency of water for spraying and it thickened quickly as it cooled on the treated areas.
But everybody seems to like Dinitrol more. Sounds like I should look into that.
I will be using a big compressor and home made lance, after hundreds of hours of restoration, which means cutting and welding fresh steel in lol

I have no complaints r the waxoil. I used it on the VW and they rust so quick you can almost watch them rust. Sure it dulls the shiny show room finish but It seems to work a treat . I didnt actually realise that it also had rust neutralising properties as well as the wax protection . Once my heap is painted I will be drowning the old tub in the stuff .. Ive never tried the dinotrol I always thought that was a more "professional" type product and for some reason I have it in my head that it only comes in black.. ? probably comes in clear as well .. Yous got to give these old things the best chance of survival and limit the heavy maintenance as much as you can .. get it in there

I like to use Dinitrol for inside chassis legs etc. I used it on my triumph and am intending on using it on my Landrover. It comes in a spray can with a long lance attachment. It’s supposed to arrest the corrosion and seal the internal surfaces. I have had it on my triumph for 9 years now and it has lasted well. My Landrover has had the inside of the chassis rust treated from nearly new. The plugs are still in the chassis where it was injected. If this hadn’t been done, I reckon the chassis would have turned into dust...

Lol, a dust chassis.
Are the plugs you mention of rubber, and where are they located on your chassis.
Drilling a series of holes to inject via makes sense, and may be useful for cleaning and re-treating I imagine.
Also is it the dinitrol 4941 you have used?
And is that black, or can it be clear too ??

They are plastic plugs and are drilled into the main chassis longitudinal beams and crossmembers. You can actually buy it as a kit through Rustbuster. Try this link https://www.rust.co.uk/product/dinitrol-rust-proofing-kit-2--359
It is a little pricey but it’s really good stuff. You can buy other products such a waxoyl and it is good too. I just like the way Dinitrol goes on and I’ve used it on at least 3 classics of mine. I used 3125 cavity wax for chassis legs and inside door panels and black 4191 for the floorpans and inner wings.
Shop around and you might get it cheaper....

Thanks, the 3125,HS looks ideal, will get in touch with them and see if I cam buy a 20L pale.
So thevtrailor's all rebuilt and out of my wee workshop
And I can access my chassis again yay.
That took too long.
So what is the best way to release the steering box which I chopped out of the chassis
Have left wd40 to soak in but thinking it may be a job for the small cutting wheel
Any suggestions welcome

I would be tempted to cut a slit and chisel it out. If it all goes wrong, I’m sure I have a spare one I could send you. Not sure if it would need a rebuild or if it would be okay to install as is..

Yep maybe cut a slit from the bottom mounting plate and some into the retaining tube part. Then carefully open it up and see if the box is released.
I will strip it and use an available kit to replace some internal components seals and stuff

Cut a slit
Prised it open with chisel and a small persuader
Or two
Which released the box a treat
A little help from the vice to ease it out
And Whoa, what a load of crud in there

Time to get busy cleaning up
I did catch it a bit with the wheel, but its cast and pretty thick.
However after it's been cleaned up, and when I strip it down for a refurb, may fill the grove with weld and grind out, if the metal is not very thick there.

Top not an issue.

It cleaned up ok, and I gave it a coat of Kurust for protection

Success - great job! Looks very smart now.

Thanks,
Just need to risk life and limb to dismantle and replace oil seals.

Began to restore the front legs of the chassis.
I need to remake much of the front cross member which holds the steering relay as I had to cut it out
I am getting a replacement for this .
But my plan is to restore the front chassis rails and get them back to a Factory look at the same time.
The plan is to brace the front, cut off the outside parts from the central seam while leaving the origonal spring hangers in place.
If the outsides are cut out, re-fabricated and welded back on everywhere but the seam. Then I should be able to cut the cross member out, and then the inner parts of the rails which I will re-fabricate and weld back with the new cross member.

The thinking is that by restoring this way, i can see into the other half, which is braced to keep the alignments, and remake the part removed with completely new metal before welding back with butt welds and then finally along the origonal seam weld.
Yes this will take more time and I may have to use six pieces to form two halves, but it should look completely origonal and like it was never touched. Least that's what I hope lol
Lots if c#@p inside from layers of nasty patches over holes.
The inside where the cross member connects has issues tooGot great access to further down tooOld part becomes my pattern to copy in new metalsame for O/S but keeping the spring hanger with the origonal stamped chassis numberThis is what multiple patches looks like insideIt's not pretty interestingly the internal support strut is welded to the other side on the O/S.Finally that gives me my second pattern, no doubt of many, to work from.

interestingly the internal support strut is welded to the other side on the O/S.
Actually it's not a strut, but I think it may be a baffle plate to reduce the ingress of crud into the chassis while alowing airflow still.

Good to see you getting stuck into the chassis. I’m sure you will be able to craft some good copies using the crusty bits as a template. Amazing how many different layers of steel plates there are. You would be able to count the rings just like a tree!

Lol,
Maybe I should keep a log.
I'll start playing with card templates to figure how well I can get the bends and curves in.
I watch this guy Cory Anderson, he has some good tips for bodywork, and he can replicate almost any metal body parts

Something to do when I get home from work next week

Ooohhh, I thought I was ‘barking’ up the wrong tree there..... I will ‘leave’ now.....
Anyway, enough of that.... I’m looking forward to seeing your progress on the chassis legs. Great sense of achievement when you make stuff yourself. I took the easier route of buying a chassis leg, which on the face of it should have been a time saver, but was a nightmare to fit...

Not shure how to make the lip on the edge as I don't have a bead roller, and it's 2mm steel. Thinking a hammer and big vice with angle iron may have a big part to play

Why not make it out of two sections and weld along the corner. It should, when dressed off look like original.

Hmm, could do,
Was looking at an new old Marshals chassis made of the two C sections welded as the origonal; and there was no lip just an overlap weld.
If that's good enough for them it probably is foe me lol.
Don't want to get too precious just want a factory type finish for my precious, Oh time to take that ring off lol