Other series 2a 109.

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Billyslandy

Member
Posts
21
Location
hampshire
my 109, n/s front of the rear spring outrigger, where it connects to the front of the rear spring is very rusty,
and not giving much strength to the front of the spring, I am in Hampshire, can any of you guys recommend
a place that knows land rovers where I can take it to get it repaired??
 
Billyslandy said:
my 109, n/s front of the rear spring outrigger, where it connects to the front of the rear spring is very rusty,
and not giving much strength to the front of the spring, I am in Hampshire, can any of you guys recommend
a place that knows land rovers where I can take it to get it repaired??
Click to expand...
What; 48 views and no replies?
 
Billyslandy said:
What; 48 views and no replies?
Click to expand...
A lot here would undertake work like that themselves, myself included, especially here in the series forum.
From your initial post is it the out rigger or the spring hanger which nesds replacing. Both should be available as replacement parts which just need welding on so neither should be a huge job, and if it is not too bad you may get away with cutting out the rust and letting in new metal (NOT patching over the top).

Although I cannot help you with a garage recommendation, if you are happy to do some spanner work to unbolt things yourself it may be worth looking for a local mobile/agricultural welder. You strip it down and buy the replacement part, they turn up, cut the old one off and weld the new one on, you then put it all back together. Would work out much cheaper than giving it to a garage to do the whole job.
 
Is it a military or civvy chassis? The best fix is a new outrigger as they come with a backing plate, but you can only get the civvy ones. The mil ones are 2" deeper so ou have to cut above the srping mount and leave that then weld the outrigger over the top. I'm gettnig this done in the summer, the ouriggers (civvy) were about £20 each and our local fabricators quoted £100 per side, (I predict nearer £150) . I prefer to use a farbicators rather than a vehicle repiaers as they are much better at welding and keep a lot of metal so they can knock up bits that are needed. There'll be someone near you, but I use Sparks welding in Datchet:
http://sparksweldingservices.co.uk/
The other option is to block it up, cut away the rust and prep it with the new outrigger lined up then pay a mobile weding service to come to you.
 
dag019 said:
A lot here would undertake work like that themselves, myself included, especially here in the series forum.
From your initial post is it the out rigger or the spring hanger which nesds replacing. Both should be available as replacement parts which just need welding on so neither should be a huge job, and if it is not too bad you may get away with cutting out the rust and letting in new metal (NOT patching over the top).

Although I cannot help you with a garage recommendation, if you are happy to do some spanner work to unbolt things yourself it may be worth looking for a local mobile/agricultural welder. You strip it down and buy the replacement part, they turn up, cut the old one off and weld the new one on, you then put it all back together. Would work out much cheaper than giving it to a garage to do the whole job.
Click to expand...

Hi dag019,
Yes; I would have a go myself, but there is no hardstanding, only mud, its raining, cold. and I would rather pay someone who has a garage, than have all the trouble of doing it myself.
Maybe in the summer but that's a long way off, thanks anyway dag019.
 
rob1miles said:
Is it a military or civvy chassis? The best fix is a new outrigger as they come with a backing plate, but you can only get the civvy ones. The mil ones are 2" deeper so ou have to cut above the srping mount and leave that then weld the outrigger over the top. I'm gettnig this done in the summer, the ouriggers (civvy) were about £20 each and our local fabricators quoted £100 per side, (I predict nearer £150) . I prefer to use a farbicators rather than a vehicle repiaers as they are much better at welding and keep a lot of metal so they can knock up bits that are needed. There'll be someone near you, but I use Sparks welding in Datchet:
http://sparksweldingservices.co.uk/
The other option is to block it up, cut away the rust and prep it with the new outrigger lined up then pay a mobile weding service to come to you.
Click to expand...
Hi rob1miles,
It is a military, and yes, I know they are different than civvy ones. Yes £150, I would pay that, then at least I would be able to drive it, but I never thought about fabricators, that's worth a try. thanks rob1miles.
 
OK with the military chassis the outrigger is the same as the civvy one but the spring hanger attached to the bottom of it is wrong, its too short and thinner. I have seen people fit these and it looks all wrong as the front of the spring is 1" too high. What you do is buy the civvy ones then cut the spring hanger off leaving the flat base plate of the outrigger. The old outrigger is cut off across the top of the spring hanger leaving the spring hanger (just about) attched to the chassis. The new outrigger is then welded on top and to the chassis. It works because the mil spring hangers are thick and seem to out last the outrigger. The new outriggers are closed ended whereas the original ones are open and trap all the mud. It really is mostly cutting and welding which is bread and butter to a fabricator, I think the it can be done with the spring and axle un touched. The wheel has to com eoff to get tot eh top of the chassis. If you drill out the rivets on the blanking pate in the tub you get good acess from above. Mine are drilled out and bolted back in with m5 dome heads as I wanted acess for some other mods. Watch for the wireing harness inside the offside chassis (mine is now routed on top) and the brake line on the inside / top of the same rail.
 
rob1miles said:
OK with the military chassis the outrigger is the same as the civvy one but the spring hanger attached to the bottom of it is wrong, its too short and thinner. I have seen people fit these and it looks all wrong as the front of the spring is 1" too high. What you do is buy the civvy ones then cut the spring hanger off leaving the flat base plate of the outrigger. The old outrigger is cut off across the top of the spring hanger leaving the spring hanger (just about) attched to the chassis. The new outrigger is then welded on top and to the chassis. It works because the mil spring hangers are thick and seem to out last the outrigger. The new outriggers are closed ended whereas the original ones are open and trap all the mud. It really is mostly cutting and welding which is bread and butter to a fabricator, I think the it can be done with the spring and axle un touched. The wheel has to com eoff to get tot eh top of the chassis. If you drill out the rivets on the blanking pate in the tub you get good acess from above. Mine are drilled out and bolted back in with m5 dome heads as I wanted acess for some other mods. Watch for the wireing harness inside the offside chassis (mine is now routed on top) and the brake line on the inside / top of the same rail.
Click to expand...

rob1miles,
Thank you for the information, where the outrigger meets the chassis, there is a large rust hole in the chassis.
I may be able to use my mates garage for a couple of days, with this in mind I'm thinking of prepping it ready and using
the garage to do the welding.
Can you give me the dimensions of the outrigger and also the part number and who would you use to buy one from?
cheers.
 
Look on Paddock spares website for the part number, then do web search and search e-bay. I think I got mine of e-bay. There seem to be serveral differnt types, they are all the same outrigger but the amount of chassis plate they come with varies. Somve have the bottom of the chassis. If you get one of those then cut the spring hangers off and movve them to the new outrigger. Copy the other side to get the dims.
 
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