Roof Bar Spot Lights - Wiring?

I can't be the first to ask this, but does anyone have a diagram for wiring a four spot roof bar, or advice as to how best to do it?
(Defender 90 300tdi 1995 - with Mantec snorkel.)

NO surprisingly enough you're not the first. You probably won't be the last. However I'm sure they'll all get the same response. DO A FOOKING SEARCH!!!!!

It depends how you want to switch them , all at once 2 inner and two outer etc . How big a hole you want to put in your roof? HTSH

Thank you 'genius'.
I'm looking for some top tips - any fool can run some wires between switches, lamps and power; and put pictures on the internet.
I don't want to make someone else's mistakes - so would rather get some expert advice from the collective.
Anyone else?

the genius is rite - unless yu decide how you want them to work, how can anyone help yu with a wiring diagram.

Battery to relay to switch.
lights to relay to switch

Hope this helps...

Please not fuse ratings are different dependant on amount of lights used.

This is for the two spot lights on either the roof or front bumper, all working off the mainbeam lights


And here is the wiring for the 4 spotlights across the roof bar.

If they are 55watt lights, you need 5 amps per light, so 4 lights needs a 20W fuse in it. Use a relay... If you want them switched with the main beam, then it is easy to take the relay actuator line from the main beam fuse wire in the back of the fuse box. 3 core mains cable is good for the lights, cos at the relay end you can twist all 3 cores together, and then at the light end you splt it again, giving you seperate wires to 3 of your lights, with the wires all already held in the same insulation. For the forth light I just used a little 'jump' wire from one light to the next, of course making sure that it is wired in paralell.
Hope this helps, if you want i can post a pic or 2 of my wiring for it? I made a second fuse box for the assorted electrics that i have been adding to the landy, which has all worked out pretty well.

dont have to put a hole in your roof either.

If you bend the cable around the rain gutter or drill a hole in the rain gutter then you can easily feed the cables in through the corner of the door and down through the trim.

boydy1989 said:

3 core mains cable is good for the lights,

Click to expand...

Why oh why do yu have to **** up a perfectly good installation! Use the PROPER stuff - so it costs an extra £2 but you will know wot colour does what and still will in a years time when yu see a mass of wires by the fuse box.

the number of times i see reasonable add-ons totally screwed by using 20 red cables or similar - spend the time and do the job correctly - or pay to have someone who can.

Not to mention the fact that mains wire isn't UV stabilised so it tends to go hard and crack when exposed to constant sunlight, wind & rain. Oh and the earth cable is a much smaller diametre than the live and neutral feeds.

Which is why I added a second fuse box with correct labels for everything, so that the standard fusebox is left alone, and un-massed.
Although i hadn't thought about the UV resistant bit, i shall admit. The wire i chose the earth line is the same as the other 2, each core is rated at 15 amps, i originally bought it for another job but it seemed to suit this one also fine, and i had several meters of it left. I agree about the ratsnest of wire problem though.

do the job propper - yu know its rite!

is that 15Amps AC or DC - theres a world of difference!

Yeah... If i assumed that is was 15 amps RMS, as it was designed for mains usage, then i worked out that itll be ok for the equivalient DC, as the RMS is what you get if you take an average of the AC sine wave. At least, thats how i saw it.