Disco 2 reverse light switch

Hello

Today i have finished changing oil seals, o-rings (on T box and gearbox) and main shaft seal on my 2003 D2 manual, and as I had problems with reverse light switch I have also changed it to a new one.
The problem is that the new one is even worse as it works only if I push the gear lever fully to the right. If I simply let it in reverse, no light, seems that the mechanism does not reach the switch. So the switch itself works but seems too short.
Any idea what could be the problem? Are there different switches available or the gearbox itself should be adjusted somehow?
Thanks

the ramp on the selector yoke will be worn, it can be replaced or welded up

jamesmartin said:

the ramp on the selector yoke will be worn, it can be replaced or welded up

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Thanks! Can it be done from the top (centre consol) or the box has to be removed?

yes from the top ,if you remove gear box top lever the selector shaft forward into a gear and undo the 5mm grub screw

I have tried to find the part on the net, but could not find selector yoke, only the bush or ball. Do you know if it can be purchased and what is the part number?

berg450 said:

I have tried to find the part on the net, but could not find selector yoke, only the bush or ball. Do you know if it can be purchased and what is the part number?

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ftc4622 but i doubt you want a new now,its a while since i bought any and only genuine lr available it seems

Try the switch without the washer.

jamesmartin said:

ftc4622 but i doubt you want a new now,its a while since i bought any and only genuine lr available it seems

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Thanks, you are right! It is more than 300 pounds, so I will try to find other solution (weld on it or modify switch lenght).

brianconwy said:

Try the switch without the washer.

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I was thinking about this as well. I will try.

berg450 said:

Thanks, you are right! It is more than 300 pounds, so I will try to find other solution (weld on it or modify switch lenght).

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i usually just weld the groove up then grind it smooth,its quite straight forward

This weekend I temporarly solved the problem. I have put back the original switch (was already modified by the previus owner see photo) without the washer. So it is now 2-3mm more close to the yoke compared to the original.
As long as my box shifts nice and the light works I will not open it up and correct the yoke (even I know that it would be the good solution). Next time if something will have to be done on the box or will be off the car, I will do it.

jamesmartin said:

i usually just weld the groove up then grind it smooth,its quite straight forward

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Looks that it is time now to remove the joke and weld up (the modified switch has broken and the new one, even without washer does not work). Is it alu casting or iron?

berg450 said:

Looks that it is time now to remove the joke and weld up (the modified switch has broken and the new one, even without washer does not work). Is it alu casting or iron?

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steel

jamesmartin said:

steel

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great, so no special welder is required.

no, its a forging but std weld

jamesmartin said:

no, its a forging but std weld

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Hi James, as I have understood you have done several ones. Is there a high risk to deforme or crack the casting during welding? What welding method you used?

berg450 said:

Hi James, as I have understood you have done several ones. Is there a high risk to deforme or crack the casting during welding? What welding method you used?

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no,
just a standard mig ,
your only filling in a groove

jamesmartin said:

no,
just a standard mig ,
your only filling in a groove

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Thanks

An update about my fight with reverse light switch. I have tried to remove the joke and weld up as James recommended but as the hex bolt which fixes it to the shaft was so tight I gave up (I did not want to damage the gearbox by breaking something or heating internal parts).
I have found an other solution which works, modified the switch itslef and made it about 2-3mm longer. I cut around the back part of the switch which made it possible to remove all internal parts. It is very simple, a plastic switch, a small spring and a simple shaft. So this shaft has to be changed for a longer one (you can ask a turner to make it). Than you have to use adhesive to reassamble (plastic switch to metal housing) and that is all.

I ordered this switch which is for a defender/discovery 1 as someone somewhere said it was longer. it didn't look any different from the one I took out but has worked well while the car was running.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rov...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649